How Can I Mulch?
Mulching is easy. Begin to collect your everyday yard waste (grass clippings, leaves, sticks, dead plant matter, shredded bark) and household materials that originate from plants (like sawdust, newspaper clippings, vegetable and fruit peelings, etc.) If you have the capability, chop these materials up into small pieces. You now have an option. You can use the materials right away and allow them to decompose right on your beds/garden. Or, you could pile them up to form a compost pile and remove them when they are partially decomposed. I think that the best way is to pre-compost the materials. The mulch looks much better if it is partially composted; it takes on a darker color and the individual components cannot be recognized. If someone looks at your garden/beds and sees grass clippings and leaves, they will think that you forgot to clean up your yard waste from the fall. To partially compost, you should follow these steps:
- Chop up the materials
- Pile the materials in a very large pile
- Keep the pile moist and in contact with the ground
- Mix the pile as often as possible (to provide the decomposers with air)
- Check the pile weekly (Your mulch is done when you can only recognize the sticks and larger items - not the leaves, grass, and newspaper clippings - and it is much darker with an earthy smell.)
- Keep this in mind! A bigger pile and more chopped up materials means faster decompostion. You don't want to compost all the way, though. As soon as the grass clippings, leaves, vegetable peels, and newspapers disappear, apply the mulch to your beds
If you are unable (or simply don't have the will power) to do all this, don't sweat it. Uncomposted mulch will be just as effective. When you apply the mulch to the soil, you want to keep one thing in mind: DON'T BE STINGY! Pile it on! A layer of mulch should be from 3 to 6 inches deep. A heavy layer of mulch will prevent weeds from poking through; however, don't pile it on too high. The soil needs to get air and water (to sustain the soil organisms and your plants). So if you've covered your garden to waist level, you've used way too much! One more tidbit: I recommend that you cover the areas that are most difficult to reach first. That way, you won't step on your layer of mulch during your trip to another area (compacted mulch is much less effective than loose mulch).
To supply a generous coating you need to produce a lot of mulch. This means that you need a lot of dead plant matter, especially if you are composting the materials (It shrinks during decomposition). The mulch can be a mixture of all the materials mentioned above, or it can be composed of a single organic material. If you cannot make your own you could inquire about a mulching program in your county or township. You could also purchase some mulch at a garden center and haul it home on your own, or buy through a mulch supplier that offers free delivery (the mulch you buy will be the same quality as the stuff you make). BUYER BEWARE: Wood chips may look nice but they do have shortcomings - they are expensive and can take years to decompose! Most homemade mulches or leaf mulches will decompose completely in a single growing season.
Once you have applied your mulch, sit back and relax. The mulch will drastically cut your watering, weeding, and soil erosion. It will also contribute to the health of your plants. A light re-mulching may be necessary around midseason - other than that, your mulch will be maintenance free.
Is Mulch Organic?
Gardening does not get more organic than mulching. If we look at the forests of our world we quickly see that mulching was really a concept of Mother Nature. All deciduous trees drop their leaves in the fall. These leaves coat the ground with a thick layer of organic matter. This natural mulch ensures a long and healthy life for the tree, the soil organisms, and all other forms of forest life. By modeling our gardens after nature's example, we are using natural techniques to help our plants grow. These techniques, which are perfectly suited to the environment, work faster and safer than any other man-made solutions. But there are more reasons to reject herbicides, plastic mulches, and excessive irrigation. These unnatural methods are not real solutions; not only are they environmentally irresponsible, but in the end, they fail to create lasting effects on the problems that they sought to correct. Oftentimes they worsen conditions. For example, herbicides can have negative effects on the plants that you want in your garden. These harmful chemicals end up in our lakes and streams and pollute our water supply. They kill the organisms in the soil, organisms that contribute to the well being of your plants. And these chemicals are passed through the roots of the vegetation to the harvest; they are present in the vegetables that you eat from the garden. I urge you to choose the environmentally safe, easy, fast, and foolproof solution to almost all of your horticultural problems. Choose mulch, the miracle cure to practically any garden grievance.