slidedidge

Building an adjustable pipe didgeridoo..

Instead of putting it in the middle of my didgeridoo pages, I've decided to present on a whole new page the different stages it took to build "slide-didge"..

First you have to select the type of tube you want (or most of the time the only one available around you). In my case it was ABS tubes, not known to be the best sounding, but I'm happy with the result.

The tubes have to slide freely one into the other, but the gap between them mustn't be to big..

In my case, the tubes are 1.5" and 2" wide. As for the length, they came in 3m pipes, so I had plenty if i wanted to build more (3 in the end see below).

The pitches of the didge will depend on the length and width. To give you an idea, with my pipes, with a length of about 90cm for both tubes the pitches range from A# to F#.
And I've done another one approx. 120cm and the pitches range from "impossible to play low E" to C. What is interesting with this one is the toot when it's in the low E position, and the possibility to play comfortably from low G to C..

While I was working on the tubes: cutting them to the required length, sanding them, and making the ends a bit smoother..I've put some candel wax to melt.

Of course beeswax is better, but more difficult to find around here. But this candel wax isn't to bad in the end, so maybe it's an alternative for you until you find beeswax.

If you can work on it, try and give a bell shape to the bottom of the didge, ABS and PVC is easy to work on when heated. Of course don't put it directly in the flamme, but above until it's hot and flexible.

There's different ways to make a bell bottom, I'found it was easy just to force the pipe on a small beer bottle and then a bigger one..

I'll try and make a HUGE bell on the next "slide-didge" I'm going to make. I'm in the process of thinking how to make it huge, pretty and good sounding (the last one being the most important).

I'll explain how I've done it, when it's finished.

I don't know which is the best way to avoid the air to go out through the gap between the 2 pipes, but I,ve been using the sticky padding you fit around windows and doors to avoid drafts.

The important thing is that you must stick it on the clean, unsanded tube before painting, because this is when it sticks best. I've had difficulties with one didge where I had to stick it on the base coat paint, and it came of and damaged the finished paint job.

By fitting some of this tape on the outer side of the inner tube and the inner side of the outer tube, you won't pull the 2 pipes apart every time you want to play at the lowest pitch and it'll.

But if you only put some on the inner tube it's fine too..

This is how it looks on mine, small bell for a small didge.

You don't need to cut the tube longer for the bell, as the length you loose on the outer tube, is the length you need at the top of the inner tube to place your hand, and also for the mouth-piece.

<-----Short Version

Long Version------->

The didges are finished now, but I haven't taken any pictures of the finished product yet, so they'll be added to this page as soon as I've taken some.

Total cost of one didge : Inner tube 7$CA
                                    Outer tube 10$CA
                                    Candel wax 1$CA
                                    Window padding 4$CA
                                    Base coat paint 3$CA
                                    Paint 5$CA

            Total: 30$CA to be divided in 3 didgeridoos = 10$CA each

First we put the base coat, just to give the background colour. In my case a creamy white. I found it was easier and looked better if sprayed from a can, and then the details painted with a brush..

Beginning of the art work. I found this really nice blue which goes very well with the white.