Quad-City Scale Modeler
Society’s
Newsletter for February 2007
The meeting minutes:
Well folks, considering the temperature and snow we had a
good turnout at the meeting. I was in
We had a visitor at the meeting this month, Pete Hudik, from IPMS Richmond, teaches at the
Figure Painting with Shawn Drovesky
The first thing you need to do is know your subject, a good artist observes and watches natural lighting. I recommend you use good lighting when you paint figures, I use a combination of regular and fluorescent lights and try to get the lighting to mimic that one would see in a contest room. Once the figure is assembled and ready to paint, I drill a hole in one foot of the figure and super glue a piece of wire in to pin the figure to a clump of clay while I’m painting it. I use modeling clay as it lasts longer than Styrofoam blocks. I start with the dark colors and work out; I also usually use a black primer, unless it’s a lighter color and then I use red oxide as a primer, or grey for a white color. I use Krylon paints from Walmart or K-Mart as my primer. I also usually paint in batches and get a little assembly line action going. Before you move on after priming, you need to spend some time making sure that all of your joints are cleaned up. If you see some problem areas, you can fill and sand, then repaint wit primer and recheck. The paint I use is acrylic Ceramcoat paints from Ben Franklin or Hobby Lobby, they dry quickly and are very easy to brush right out of the bottle. They come in a wide variety of colors, and I also mix my own colors when necessary. They do require thinning for washes. I don’t use oils personally, as I don’t like how long they take to dry. To digress for a moment, I use sable or camel hair brushes; if you want to get good results you need good brushes. For dry brushing I use brushes that I cut down close to the ferrule. I also use paper towels to wipe the paint off of the brush when preparing to dry brush. Anyway, back to the figures. Eyes are a bitch, you could make all of you figures passed out, but that’s not cool. I use a Shep Paine technique for the eyes; don’t use white paint as that will give you the “pop eye” look I use a shade several tones lighter than the skin tones to paint my eyes, I paint the iris as a dark vertical line, then use red brown to outline the eye, then the eye lids are done by painting a crescent. I use a small dot of pinkish red to the corners of the eyes on larger figures. Also, eyes are shiny, so I use fingernail polish for my large figures as well. For the eyebrows, I don’t use black or red as they are very hard to do as a dark and a highlight unless it’s a large figure. For my flesh tones I use red oxide as a base color. I use Ceramcoat colors right from the bottles as my flesh tone shades, there are so many different colors I usually don’t have to mix my own. When you get ready to paint the face, take a look at your own face in a mirror to see where the highlights and shadows are. The lips are a shade or two darker than the skin tone with a little brown mixed in. For blending, I use dry brushing rather than blending with oils for the reason I mentioned earlier. I will put together a list of the colors I use for my flesh tones and bring that to an upcoming meeting. I don’t use washes too much when painting figures, unless the figure is wearing chain mail, or I may use a wash of blue on white cloaks. I highlight black cloaks with light gray. I plan to have some follow on sessions, so if you have questions, let me know.
Show and tell:
We had some interesting stuff on the tables, an unbuilt Revell 1/72 scale GATO class sub. This kit has a lot of plastic in it. A 1/32 Roden SE 5A along with a pile of new Dragon armor kits such as the Panther G “smart kit”, Puma and M4A3 105mm. Ronbo bought the new Dragon 1/32 P-51 at Major’s right before the meeting that has tones of detail as well as some PE and wiring for the landing gear, he also brought in a 1/20 Tamiya Renault RE 30B Formula I he is building for the Regional.
Brian brought in an NX-01 Enterprise that he had displayed at MVR hobby. It’s a very impressive kit with multiple metal panels. It took him two weeks just to mask the paint job. He used a Sharpie pen to highlight the panel lines.
Glen W. brought in two unbuilt kits, the Enterprise NX-01 and Polar Lights NCC-1701A that will be over three feet long when done.
Mikey brought in a
The Dates:
February 10: Chapter meeting. Bring and build
March 10: Chapter meeting
March 31: Quad
Cities Show. Clarion
Hotel,
April 14: Chapter
meeting. Road trip to
April 14: IPMS Plastic Surgeons 14th Annual Plastic Surgeons Model Contest. Contact: Greg Metge gmgha@mchsi.com
May 12: Chapter meeting
June 9: No chapter meeting! We will be at the Regional!
June 8-9: Region V
Regional, Knights of Columbus Hall 401 West Main Street, Ottawa, IL 61350 Contact:
Steve Stohr: 815-434-7279,
Some industry News:
RC2 has announced that they will be discontinuing ERTL and AMT products to focus on their children’s toy lines. Big surprise there.
Military Wisdom:
Some of these you’ve seen before, but what the heck – I need filler.
"A slipping gear could let your M203 grenade launcher fire when you least expect it. That would make you quite unpopular in what's left of your unit."
- Army's magazine of preventive
maintenance.
"When the pin is pulled, Mr. Grenade is not our friend. -
"If the enemy is in range, so are you." - Infantry
Journal
"It is generally inadvisable to eject directly over the area you just
bombed." -
"Whoever said the pen is mightier than the sword obviously never encountered automatic weapons." - General Macarthur
"Try to look unimportant; they may be low on ammo." - Infantry Journal
"Tracers work both ways." - U.S. Army Ordnance
"Don't ever be the first, don't ever be the last, and don't ever volunteer
to do anything." - U.S. Navy Swabbie
"Bravery is being the only one who knows you're afraid." - David Hackworth
"Any ship can be a minesweeper. Once."
"Never tell the Platoon Sergeant you have nothing to do." -
Unknown Marine Recruit
"Don't draw fire; it irritates the people around you." - Your Buddies
"If you see a bomb technician running, follow
him." – EOD Tech
"The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire."
"When one engine fails on a twin-engine airplane you always have enough
power left to get you to the scene of the crash."
"Without ammunition, the USAF would be just another expensive flying club."
"Never trade luck for skill."
The three most common expressions (or famous last words) in aviation are:
"Why is it doing that?", "Where are we?" And "Oh
S...!"
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
"There is no reason to fly through a thunderstorm in peacetime." - Sign over squadron ops desk at Davis-Monthan AFB, AZ, 1970
"If something hasn't broken on your helicopter, it's
about to."
"You know that your landing gear is up and locked when it takes full power
to taxi to the terminal."
As the test pilot climbs out of the experimental aircraft, having torn off the wings and tail in the crash landing, the crash truck arrives, the rescuer sees a bloodied pilot and asks "What happened?"
The pilot's reply: "I don't know, I just got here myself!" - Attributed to Ray Crandell (Lockheed test pilot)
M4A2
Dragon Models 1/35 6062
MSRP - $41.50
Courtesy of IPMS Tacoma
WOW….That was my first impression on opening the box. The first thing you see is a 5x7 card holding
etched brass, decals, metal tow cable, clear parts, and the track. Then as you pull out the out wrapped styrene
sprues, the wows keep coming. Dragon’s
M4A2 “Tarawa” is sure to please even the pickiest of
Some tidbits from Mike Scheel:
New Series on the Military Channel “Tank Overhaul”
(rebuilding armor in private hands)
Tuesday Feb. 6th at 1900
The DVD of Flyboys will be out Tuesday. Best Buy's flyer has it listed as $16 and $23 for the "special edition"
Kit Review: Dragon Models Limited 1/72 Armor Pro Kit No. 7274; M4A3(105mm) VVSS Sherman; 147 parts (117 parts in grey styrene, 27 etched brass, 2 tan DS plastic track runs, 1 length of twisted steel wire); retail price US $13.95
By Cookie Sewell
Advantages: amazing amount of detail in a 1/72 scale kit; very nicely done with new parts breakdown; DML discovers weld beads!
Disadvantages: either pantographed or victim of same research error (see text)
Rating: Recommended
Recommendation: for all Shermaholics
and 1/72 scale modelers. DML continues
its effort to "run the table" with nice new small-scale kits of the
The model is an early production howitzer
articulating arms molded in place. Net result is that with only four parts you
get a nice, neat finished bogie assembly. The wheels are the "cast"
type with covers in place; likewise it comes with solid (e.g. matching) idlers
and "solid" ring drivers. The tracks are T48 type with rubber
chevrons. The turret consists of a top and bottom with the pistol port molded
in place, but the cover left separate. This is again a "slide molded"
part to get the detail resolution. (Note that everything with a casting number
except the mantlet has one, even though you will need a jeweler's loupe on some
of them!) The turret is quite complete, with a very nicely done machine gun
with parallel heat jacket at the rear of the barrel and separate spade grips.
However, even though it is the VVSS version only the later commander's
"vision" cupola is included and not the early production "split
hatch" one. The etched brass parts
replace some of the detail parts provided in styrene, such as the front fender
tips, the rear luggage rack, and some of the tool racks. The parts are called
out on the directions with blue for parts to be trimmed or removed and a mustard
color for the brass parts to be installed; this is quite helpful as the
directions are thankfully in black and white and parts are thus much easier to
see. But unlike previous DML efforts,
this is the first one to include the same error noted in the larger kit. While
apparently not pantographed, it manages to retain the
too narrow mantlet discovered on the M4A3 (105) 1/35 scale kit (no. 6354.) Terry Ashley at the Perth Military Modeling
Society site noted that the original 105mm howitzer mantlet was 40 5/8"
wide, or what works out as 1033 mm. In 1/35 scale, that comes out as 29.5 mm. DML's new kit has a mantlet only 27mm wide, which is
slightly noticeable. In 1/72 scale this should make the mantlet 14.3 mm wide;
but on the kit it is exactly 13mm. Ergo, both kits are approximately 9%
undersized, and in this scale it will show. Finishing instructions cover three
tanks in winter whitewash camouflage: two vehicles from the 6th Armored Division,
In box review:
Trumpeter 1/350 Scale USS England DE-635
By Glen Broman, IPMS Quad Cities
As many of you know I tend to dabble in ship models. For some reason, I’ve been looking forward to
this release. The last Destroyer Escort
model I built was the old Revell kit which must have been back in the mid 70’s
and I’ve had a hankering to do another one.
I bought my kit at Great Hobby Adventures in
Kit Review: Panzershop 1/35 Scale
www.chesapeakemodels.com)
By Cookie Sewell
Advantages: ONLY kit of this vehicle likely to be made; gorgeous etched brass radar screen and accessory parts; clean, straight, warp- free resin casting; extended Fruil tracks solve problems of fitting track to the model
Disadvantages: radar antenna is complex and will have to be soldered together; very, very expensive kit
Rating: Highly Recommended
Recommendation: for all Soviet air defense fans and anyone wanting an air defense diorama centerpiece
F I R S T L O O K
When the
missile system. Panzershop from the Czech Republic is
rapidly establishing itself as
a first-rate resin accessory and kit manufacturer, and this particular kit will
probably be one of the best ever produced. Albeit a somewhat offbeat subject,
it is quite impressive and provides the modeler with many options. The kit is
very, very complex, and this has to be stated up front. Panzershop
places a warning to that effect on the box top and unlike
many US ones which provide recommended ages, mostly I think to pump up the
feelings of first timers who can build the kits without problems, they are not
kidding! The box is very sturdy and the parts inside are either
bagged on their casting wafers, wrapped in bubble wrap, or packed with
foam peanuts for safety. All of the etched brass is inserted in ziplock bags with a stiff section of cardboard to eliminate
damage in shipment. The lower hull is cast as a single part with internal
bulkheads for stiffness, and the suspension is provided separately. Late T-55
"starfish" type wheels are provided - 28 of them - and they are all
of the correct width, which is a rare thing to find with many T-55 based
vehicle kits. Other than the casting bars or wafers, cleanup is minimal. The
other major assemblies are the cab, the casemate, and the cab. All are packaged
separately and require only minimal cleanup.
The LONG TRACK comes with the main engine and all of its systems
provided, and an etched brass hood covers it when assembled and installed. 31
resin parts are provided just for this installation, and the radiator takes
another four resin and seven etched brass parts. Next is the cab, and while it
is formed from the usual mixture of resin and etched brass Panzershop
provides pre-color acetate parts for the five windows and two instrument
panels. The rubber seals are painted onto the windows, which really does
simplify the task of the modeler. Once the cab and floor are mounted on the
chassis, the next step involves the installation of the casemate. As it is
closed and there is no interior, all that is required are adding the external
details such as the generator intake and exhaust components (etched), various
air tanks and fire extinguishers (I counted at least four, all made up of
multiple components), and the vents and covers over the sides and top of the
casemate. The radar antenna is the most daunting component of the kit. It uses
a resin base and feedhorn assembly but the feedhorn mount and reflector are etched brass and until
complete all are very, very fragile. There is no other realistic way to
assemble them but soldering, so that will the one restrictive skill set for
most modelers in assembling this kit. The directions are typical of most low-production
rate resin kits, mostly photos of parts and 'stick here' photos of
subassemblies, but Panzershop provides four nice neat
drawings of the antenna assembly with keyed numbers so that advanced modelers
will be able to get the antenna properly shaped and formed. The directions
unfortunately do not show a finished but unpainted model, but most modelers who
get this far will not have a problem finishing up the model. It offers few
display options - open or closed windows, open or closed cab doors, open or
closed vents, and open or closed hood panels. But the greatest saving grace of
all comes from the fact that the model also includes a very nicely done CD that
covers most of these things in fine detail! The disk contains about 400 Mb of
photos of the model as complete,
every step of construction, and a great selection of photos of a
references combined make this a reasonably priced package. Thanks to Bill Miley of Chesapeake Model Designs (the
Trumpeter 1/35 JGSDF NBC Detection Vehicle
An in box review by Glen Broman, IPMS Quad Cities
I was wandering around the kit stash in the basement looking
for something a little unusual for this month’s in the box review and I found
this one. Since I worked in the Chem Bio
Defense field for many years, I have a tendency to pick up all of the kits that
hit the shelves of NBC vehicles. This
vehicle is used b the Japanese Ground Self Defense Forces and is a modification
of their standard Type 82 armored six wheel chassis. It has a Nuclear, Biological and Chemical
(NBC) sampling suite similar to the US M93A1, Stryker NBC Recon vehicle and the
German Fuchs. You have to love the
Chinese translations though “its weathercock-looking measuring instrument was
replaced with high-tech sensors makings its appearance smarter.” I’ve been trying to make my appearance look
smarter for years, maybe I should take note.
On to the plastic. Years ago, I built Trumpeters first armored
car kit, a Chinese WZ-901. It was a
piece of crap and no known glue then in existence would stick the pieces
together. I think I used a MIG welder I
had down in the shop to make the kit.
This new kit highlights the huge improvement in molding and quality that
Trumpeter have made.
The kit has four separately bagged sets of sprues, a set of photo
etched, three metal axles, some string for cable and a few clear plastic parts. The lower and upper hull pieces are packaged
separately. The parts are well modeled
with plenty of detail. It looks like the
.50 caliber machine gun ammo box is the same type used on the M16 Quad 50
mount. There is no visible flash or
ejector pin marks where they would show.
One of the sprues that have some delicate looking parts has been wrapped
in an extra layer of bubble wrap, that’s a nice touch. Here’s a set of five
Japanese soldiers included in the kit that are nicely molded. The tires are a
let down as they are not as well done as the rest of the kit and are certainly
not as accurate as they could be. The wheels are split vertically which means a
little filling and sanding will be in order. They will work, but after market
would be better, if they exist. To date,
I have not seen any resin wheels for the Type 82. The lower hull assembly looks pretty straight
forward, not as complicated as the Revell kit of the Fuchs NBC vehicle. There is a shaded area on the lower hull
piece that has a shaded area with an arrow pointing to it that says
“repair”. I have no clue but will
probably figure it out once I start building this puppy. There is a basic interior provided for the drivers compartment, with a little work, it can look
decent. All color call outs on the
instruction are for Gunze Sangyo paints.
Early and late type sampling arms are provided and are clearly
identified on the instructions. There
are no interior parts for the aft crew compartment, so you will either have to
leave the commanders hatch closes, add the crew figure or scratch build one.
The periscope housings in the cupola are molded hollow so you can either fill them with white glue, add the kit transparencies
or devise some other method to show the periscope glass. The information on markings and painting is a
little sloppy in that there is one page with a five view of the kit showing the
camo demarcation lines and it shows that they are either
the standard JGSDF dark green and dark brown or field grey or earth brown. There is no mention of which the early or
late version is or which decals are used. Tamiya have released several new
colors in their paint range, including modern Japanese dark green and dark
brown and I intend to use these to paint the vehicle. When I built the Japanese Type 90 tank I used
RAF dark green and dark brown, they look close, so if you don’t feel like
springing for a few extra bottles of paint, you can always go with those two
colors for a pretty accurate match. Overall, this is a very nice looking kit
with some painting and marking issues. I
recommend this kit if you want to try some thing a little different. I purchased my sample at MVR Hobby in
Some local modeling news:
There are some new “old” kits on the consignment shelves in the basement at Major’s, go check them out. If you are interested in selling off some of your old kits, you can drop them off at Major’s, they charge 20% for a consignment fee. I’ve found this to be a pretty good way to get rid of some kits that I didn’t want to mess around with on Ebay.
Hobby Lobby should be having a 50% off sale pretty soon, so keep an eye on the paper or check www.hobbylobby.com.
MVR Hobby has done a little remodeling inside and now has probably the best paint selection in the Quad Cities. They also still have quite a few kits marked down from the December sale still on the shelves. MVR has the best selection of car kits in town and are always worth a stop.
After a lot of requesting, cajoling and discussion, Barnes and Noble will start carrying Military Modelling, Scale Aircraft Modelling and Military In Scale in February. They will be getting five copies of each issue. If we want to keep adding magazines unavailable in the Quad Cities to their inventory, we need to make sure that they sell out every month.
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