This report details my latest and most likely last pilgrimage to photograph and enjoy Chinese steam trains in commercial operation. As everyone knows, steam is now finished for mainline operations and now only industrial steam survives. Even then, working industrial steam locomotives are usually few and far between and one now has to travel further and further to see them. My goal was that if I saw 1 steam locomotive I would be happy. Over 14 days we covered roughly 6,000 kilometers to visit Hegang, Mudanjiang, Jixi, and Meihekou. We didn't have a set schedule. Originally we had planned to visit Jalainuer, Suileng, Hegang, Huanan, Jixi, Mudanjiang, Meihekou, Nanpiao and Huludao. But this soon became apparent that if we wanted to work to this we would be spending less than a day in every single location. As usual, this was all possible from the many trip reports and individuals. For those who helped, I thank you! Biggest thanks to Colin Hussey who helped with maps and ideas. Most important advice I can give to anyone thinking of going. Do it! 2 years is not a long time and after then you will only be able to see these machines in museums.
Do not let the problems we faced in the report put anyone off from going. Please keep in mind we were travelling a day after Chinese new year and latern festival the following week. If I could get through it during this time, anyone can do it at normal times of the year - and probably more time to play with.
We departed Australia a day early getting the call from Cathay Pacific the previous evening to tell us there had been cancellations and we could make the waiting list. Flight was via Hong Kong, where we had a wait of only an hour before landing in Beijing at around 8pm. From here we quickly left for Beijing railway station to get tickets for the 22:56 K19 service to Harbin. As predicted it was full so we got soft sleeper bottom berth tickets (515Y) for the next morning on T157 instead and spent the night at a relatives. Since my last trip to Beijing in early 2001, there has been a great deal of change about the place. Gone (or mostly gone) are the red taxis, replaced with a new army of new Hyundai Elantra's in 4 different color schemes which I guess signify either taxi company, regions in which they serve or both. Freeways now also have blue and red flashing lights set up for what I can only guess to be fake police cars to slow down drivers, or maybe speed cameras.
Boarded T156/157 – 19 class 25T coaches headed by an SS9G. Train departed at 8:15am. I like traveling long distances by train; it is a great way to view the country at a leisurely pace. Beds were very messy on boarding, but were changed about 10 minutes in. Our compartment was empty for the entire trip. The new 25T coaches are quite comfortable. Soft sleeper berths now have private LCD televisions for each bunk. But as comfortable as they are, they do have a few problems. The first is the windows don’t open, and the ventilation system isn’t powerful enough to remove the tobacco smoke from wafting through the cabin, even when the doors are closed. Second thing is the toilets are still the usual hole in the floor style – and there are no grab handles to boot!
Had lunch in the restaurant car. More smoke in there than a forest fire. Took about 10 minutes deciding from the menu the waitress gave to decide what to eat. After placing an order, she quickly flipped the menu to the rear page where there was a hand written menu with two meal choices! Congee or fish with vegetables and rice. I chose the latter but decided to take it back to our cabin where the smoke wasn’t as bad. More irritating tiny bones than fish meat.
For those who have an interest in traction other than steam, the line between Beijing and Qinhuangdao mainly uses SS1 electric for freight. Over 30 passed our train on this stretch. There were a couple of DF4’s on freights and one SS3 that looked worse than some dumped engines I’ve seen! Pax was generally DF4b hauled.
One of the countless SS1's on freight duty an hour out of Beijing
From Qinhuangdao to Jinzhou, freight was mainly DF8 B and early SS9’s on the passenger with all but a few exceptions. Highlights of this section were seeing the Harbin Star and an NY7. This was my first viewing of the NY7’s and probably my last as there are now only 2 left on the China Rail roster. This one was waiting in a siding with a train loaded with new rails.
Traffic was quite sparse between Jinzhou and Shenyang. After Shenyang, traffic levels went back to normal with a train passing us every 5 minutes, usually SS4G freights and DF4D pax. Arrived on time in Harbin at 730PM on time and had no problems getting tickets for the 1392/1393 overnighter to Jiamusi. Soft sleeper tickets, lower berth cost 127Y. Soft sleeper not only gives you a much more comfortable ride, but it allows you to avoid the madness on the hard seat class. At Harbin, soft sleeper passengers are allowed to wait in the “Soldier’s Waiting Room” and bide the time for as long as you can stand in plush leather chairs. The announcements and cigarette smoke is enough to give anyone permanent deafness or terminal lung cancer after an hour. Although the hall is amazingly quiet, the CNR announcer sees fit to scream into the microphone as load as possible, which is connected to the amplifier set at full volume. Fortunately we were only in there for 59 minutes so made it to our train in the nick of time.
Train to Jiamusi was DF4DF with green and gold 22 class cars. Our compartment was empty again, and ageing but not too bad. Amazingly, the toilet was a sit down version! Still not hygienic by any means, but more comfortable expelling fish bones in this type of loo. Tried to fall asleep but quite difficult in these rattlers.
Arrived at Jiamusi late just before 6am. Went straight to the ticket office to attempt tickets for the service to Hegang, but queues were far to long to even bother. As you can probably tell, I much prefer train travel than road transport in China, particularly in winter! Train 6543 would have been the ideal choice as it takes only an hour and a half and would have departed only 45 minutes after getting in.
Walked outside and found the minibuses without too much trouble. Jiamusi was the first time we experienced the term ‘real cold’ since Pingdingshan a year earlier. We were both hurried into a crowded minibus for 13 Yuan. Couldn’t see anything out of the windows and I was sitting in the front seat! Suicidal driving throughout. Ticket collector lit up on the bus so I tried to open the window in protest, but the window handle was long gone. Great to be back. Bus dropped us off a stop before the Long Yun hotel, as recommended. Price for double is now 228Y for the double. We took the next room up however as it came with a PC with Internet. These rooms are listed at 448Y but we had it negotiated down to 333Y. Fantastic room. We were 14 stories up and overlooking the yards and station area, from where I could spot 2 SY’s.
We went up to the room and dropped everything. Just as we were on the way out, the room attendant had the job of coming up to us and telling us that they were so, so sorry, but this particular room was already booked and we would have to move into another one. We were shown one down stairs without internet that smelled like a few cigarette smoking, copulating whales had been in there for a week. Clearly this was not acceptable especially after seeing that other lovely room with ornate furniture. We were told not to worry as another of those rooms would be free in the afternoon and they would move all of our luggage up for us while we were out.
After leaving the hotel we followed the road left until we crossed the road bridge. No steam visible from the loco yard, so took a taxi to the open cast pit. Driver took us to the open cast pit. Unfortunately he took us to the wrong one! The one we went to was still in use, but no trains anymore and the last coal taken out by trucks. Turned back and headed towards the town. We crossed over the road bridge to the south of Hegang station where an SY was rolling into the steam shed. Got taxi driver to take us to Nanshan. When we arrived, we saw SY 3014 under the conveyor. Security staff eyed us suspiciously, but as it goes in China, when in doubt - smile. He soon had us in the dispatch office with cups of tea. As usual, staff were extremely interested in Australia. Just like I did in Pingdingshan, I took railway photographs I had taken in China from previous trips, but this time I took over photos of Australian trains too – which turned out to be MUCH more popular than the Chinese photos.
Single horse power cart crosses a level crossing at Nanshan
Took a few photos from here, then headed towards the main yard. We got into the engine depot without too much difficulty, asking first at the security booth at the entrance if we could go in and get photos of the engines, which they agreed to. Got photos of a LEW loco being sanded by an enormous hand shovel. 4 SY’s dumped against the wall as previously reported. SY 0555, 0683, 3023 and 3024. Soon after we were asked to leave the depot by another staff member. Which turned out to be in our favour. Steamer idling at Jipei station and steam passenger rolling in.
Manchurian 6 axle steam crane at Hegang depot ; SY 1370 in the depot
Line up of dumped locomotives. They could probably be brought back to life, but doubtful
We were offered a ride in one of the LEW electrics from here, getting some great photos, video and insight of how they operate. First to Fuli mine, to the main yard with loads, then with empties to the open cast pit. On the way the engine had an electrical problem – or more accurately lack of it. Under way again after about half an hour. This pit has really got to be seen to be believed. Many of you who haven’t gone have heard this before I’m sure, but it’s true! It’s amazing. Started getting dark and after a few smaller workings into some industrial sidings we got out and made our way back to the hotel. Staff informed us our bags had been moved up to the new room. Pretty good, but nowhere near as good as the one we had originally been in. At least we had Internet, but the views weren’t as good anymore and it was a smaller room than before. One of our camera bags was missing however, but as I had all the cameras with me I only lost spare batteries and the head for that bloody heavy tripod I was lugging around everywhere!
Crane loading coal at the pit ; Inside a LEW electric
DF4B/DF4C depart Hegang on the CNR mainline ; LEW electric with a 1 car train
Woke up early and went straight to Jipei to get the passenger train coming in. Was a fantastic spectacle, especially as another steamer was running parallel to it with a few loaded hoppers. Unfortunately however, the sun was in the wrong place and the photos didn’t turn out very well. Made friends at Jipei station. Staff were incredibly friendly, suggesting areas to visit and drawing maps and writing down the names of the places in Chinese to give to taxi drivers etc. We walked to Fuli mine again and took photos of the narrow gauge system and headed back to Jipei where most of the action seemed to be happening. We only saw one steamer that morning which was on the pax.
SY 3014 outside Jipei station ; A small SY tender dwarfs a tiny railcar at Jipei
Soon a LEW rolled into the yard and three young guys got out. They were from Shenyang and part of a local China Steam Locomotive enthusiast group. They did speak limited English and told us they were heading up to the disused depot to get photos of the “Japanese steam train” and invited us to tag along, so I excitedly went with them. The Japanese steam train turned out to be an ancient German electric engine (number 1009). The depot here hasn’t been used for some time and is now used to dump old rolling stock. Still quite a few staff around though. The main building is to be destroyed in the coming months. On the façade is a communist plaque with 4 boards above the engine doors with 4 rules written on them. These were purportedly put here when chairman Mao visited the area. One of the staff told us China was trying to demolish as many of these types of buildings as possible. Many weird and wonderful pieces of rolling stock around here, worth a hunt around if you can get in!
Ancient electric dumped locomotive 1009 ; The old engine shed soon to be destroyed
Having had my fill of Chinese food for the time being, we tried to find a western food outlet for lunch. We found one, close to the big roundabout. A large red sign with those famous golden arches... but called “McTouch”. Hmmm… Not as bad as I thought it would be, although McTouching was out of the question… shame, those Northern girls sure are cute! Food wise, if you are expecting McDonalds – you’d seriously be better off with a bowl of instant noodles.
After some shopping for a cheap tripod and more film, we gathered our things and checked out a day early. We decided to negotiate a taxi to Jiamusi via the power plant in the hope of getting a train there. For those who are considering a taxi, particularly out the front of the hotel – do not even bother, they're all mates and just as crooked as each other. We eventually got from one of them what we thought was a good deal. For 50Y to the power plant and return. 25 each way didn’t seem to bad. He said for 100 he’d take us to Jiamusi after the power plant. So we agreed. No trains at the power plant and after waiting for about half an hour and with the sun setting, decided to give up and head off to Jiamusi. As soon as we reached Jiamusi, he asked for 150Y. An argument broke out. After a few minutes of exchanges, I told Vinci to pay him 150 and also tell him I was a journalist (which I am not) and I then proceeded to write down his number plate. This made him very nervous and he gave Vinci 30Y back and told her he would do it at “cost” this time. Still, his number plate is 20502.
Hegang Overall – I found Hegang to be a pretty good city to get around in, although photogenically very difficult as the sun never shone in the direction we wanted it too and the steam locomotives face north, except one. Staff said 10 SY’s and over 20 electrics work the system. Steam is on the way out however as it is everywhere else. The LEW electrics are interesting engines, and Hegang certainly has a lot of character about it, but is certainly not the steam Mecca I was expecting – especially after seeing those incredible photos of David Kitching!
Special LEW 2310
Stayed overnight in Jiamusi at the Chengda hotel for 100Y. Pretty ho hum – i.e., normal for China, but massage was great and much needed! Before tucking in for the night, went to Jiamusi station and got hard seat tickets to Jixi for 20Y on service 6412. Jixi passengers need to get off at Linkou and change trains.
Boarded 6412 with no problems. Platform supervisor allowed me to photograph the DF4D assigned to the job (like every other pax service out of Jiamusi).
We soon upgraded tickets to hard sleeper, as it was very full, we were carrying too much luggage and I’d had enough of the people sitting opposite coughing in my face without covering their mouths. Cigarette smoke was a factor too, but was bad everywhere in the train. Upgrades cost another (110Y). Something I noticed along the route from Jiamusi – Linkou, was just how many old cabooses there are rusting away. I saw about 6 of these. Has anybody noticed that these are becoming rarer to find now than steam locomotives themselves? Quite a few freight trains passed or in waiting loops, the predominant cargo being grain (or corn?) with early DF8’s or DF4b. As our train would have arrived late in Jixi anyway, I decided to take a gamble and get to Mudanjiang where we may be able to see at least some steam there in daylight and then take an overnighter to Jixi. We decided to stay on the train to Mudanjiang, forfeiting the tickets to Jixi. The trip from Linkou – Mudanjiang was 2 hours and 20 minutes and an upgrade would have cost 65Y. As hard seat cost only 7Y, we headed back into hard seat class. We met some very interesting passengers on board. One who had never seen a camera before.
Typical scene of the line between Jiamusi and Linkou
Just before arriving in Mudanjiang we passed a Power Station where in the yard were 2 high deflector QJ’s in steam next to each other. When we rolled into Mudanjiang station, we saw the C2 on the platform, but by this stage it became apparent that it would be too dark to get the QJ’s before it was dark. So we checked into the Mudanjiang Hotel (120Y double) – directly across from the station and decided to spend all of the next day at Mudanjiang for the QJ’s.
C2 at Mudanjiang platform 1. It is named a C28 on the information board
I lay down on the rock hard bed to review some video while Vinci took a shower. She decided to stand on the toilet seat to adjust the shower nozzle. I heard an almighty crash and quickly rushed across to see what commotion was. There were pieces of toilet seat all over the floor and her foot was stuck in the toilet. My worst nightmare would be having my barefoot stuck in a Chinese toilet and I would have felt really sorry for her if I wasn’t busy laughing my arse off. For those who are travelling with ladies, toilet seats at this hotel cost 10 Yuan to replace.
Don't try this at home, folks.. Vinci is a professional
Next morning we took a taxi to Baodagou, two stations north of Mudanjiang. Passenger trains do not serve Baodagou. There is a smallish yard there, which is the interchange for coal trains for the power station. MiG fighter jets fly over the city every 5 minutes for training exercises.
Tom Cwuise in "Top Chung"
The taxi driver was a little confused as to how to actually get there, but he managed to drop us off by the line on the opposite side of the station on the curve just outside the power station. As we got out of the car we heard a whistle and had just enough time to get a shot of QJ 1675 chuffing out of the power station compound before switching tracks and heading back in.
Goodness...
This was my first sighting of a high deflector QJ. It is astounding that this loco and the other one, QJ 1830 (also high deflector), have outlived almost every other QJ! They are both 1972 machines and are in very reasonable condition. These locomotives are not expected to survive much longer according to many of the power station workers. The JS was nowhere to be seen and we were told they didn’t know it’s whereabouts either. We never entered or attempted to enter the power station compound. Industry like this is generally forbidden in China. Besides, we had a good photo location where we were and didn’t want to risk being removed from there also.
QJ 1675 and 1830 shunting in and out of the electricity plant
The operations here are very uninteresting. The two QJ’s shunt coal cars from the adjacent yard at Baodagou – no more than 2 kilometres in length, sometimes they top and tail the trains. In the 8 hours we were there, we saw 6 coal trains being pulled in and 7 rakes of empties been taken out, so traffic levels are relatively good here. The CNR mainline runs through the yard and past the power station and there is no shortage of single, double or triple header DF8 freights going through.
Typical DF8 double header freight ; Special DF4B locomotive 1975 built in 1991 at Baodagou
Dumped locomotive SY 0967
On the other side of the rails lies the Mudanjiang Coal and Coke plant, where we saw a cold SY coming in on the train from Jiamusi. We went to the security office and asked permission to take photos of the engine. They initially said no. Then yes. As I started walking towards the engine, I was called back and told the chief decided to refuse, but did say it was fine to take photos from outside the compound and through the fence. The builder’s plates from this locomotive are missing. Security also mentioned there was another SY in the plant somewhere that was still used but currently not working. They were unsure as to where it was, but next to SY 0967 there is a small concrete shed with track running into it that is the perfect size for an SY. Windows were too dirty to see into.
Weather was perfect for steam photos in Mudanjiang. It was about minus 20C, no wind and brilliant sun. Some great video was taken here, as well as countless photos. This would surely be the last time I would see a working QJ. My first time was in 2001 at Jing Peng.
QJ 1675 again makes light work of the 20 empty cars being pulled into Baodagou ; interesting railcar train
The last steam movement we recorded was both QJ’s rolling out of the power station a minute apart and top and tailed a massive coalie into the power station. Packed up and headed for the hotel. Mother and her two children walked passed us. Her cheeky young son kept turning around and laughing & pulling faces. He didn’t notice the ditch and fell down about 2 feet, much to the delight of his sister! Tripod started losing small pieces.
We checked out of the hotel and made it to Mudanjiang station. Access to the station platforms is extremely difficult, even with tickets (unless 10 minutes prior to boarding). CNR staff will not allow access onto the platforms, regardless of how much you beg. We eventually asked a police man to allow us on, and he spoke to the staff at the exit point who let us on, but told us to be quick. We raced back to the C2 named “Mudanjiang” for some better pics, then to the other side to photograph the SY 0452. The tender is a JF and has big brass numbers 2002 on the rear.
SY 0452 with an identity crisis
Got evening train to Jixi. Departing in the dark and arriving at about 8pm. In the darkness we saw the 2 QJ’s in Baodagou yard – so maybe this is a 24-hour operation? Having said that, I’m not sure rocking up at 3 in the morning with a van full of camera equipment is going to do you any favours! We upgraded to hard sleeper and made friends with a CNR worker who worked in the financial department. He was very helpful in giving us information on how to negotiate taxis in Jixi, good hotels and restaurants.
Unfortunately when we arrived, that hotel (Jing Long) was fully booked. We tried another but staff there told us there was no hot water. We finally got a room on level 4 of the Jixi Fandian for 120Y. We were on level 4. There is no elevator, and no one to assist with our massive backpack and 20 kgs of camera equipment and I was coming down with the flu. Not a nice end to the day, but still had QJ’s ringing in my ears.
Staff forgot wake up call. No hot water and a terrible nights sleep and an equally bad breakfast we checked out immediately and went to a hotel fairly close to Beichang and Dongchang on the Chengzihe system. This is located on the main road between Beichang and Jixi, after the river. The hotel name is Jing Fu, a five-story job with a pink and white façade. Double is 180Y but worth the extra cost – even though this hotel wasn’t much chop either.
Chengzihe. The place to be
Taxis in Jixi have no meters so it is up to the individual to negotiate. Generally short trips cost 5Y. From the Jing Fu to the Jixi railway station, cost should be 5Y, but most will say 15 and fall back to 10. There are plenty of taxis so don’t be afraid to try to barter for a fare.
We soon headed off to Chengzihe and took loads of photographs from around here. Some good video too, but a lot ruined due to the cheap tripod I bought in Hegang. There is a lot of traffic from Dongchang. We made friends with the staff at the level crossing who were very happy to accommodate us and store the cameras. Vinci was very happy to get out of the cold too, and she stayed inside while I ran around taking photos with an ultra sore throat and blocked nose.
Traffic at Dongchang is very busy in the morning
I was invited onto the cab of SY 0863 in the servicing track. Was fantastic to be up in the cab of a steamer again. I gave them some Aussie coins as a thankyou which were greatly received.
Then left for the engine works to try and spot the QJ. Unfortunately due to lantern festival, the depot was closed for the three days we were in Jixi area. We walked back down to the main road, stopping off at a level crossing where, once again, we were asked to come inside for a cup of tea. Plenty of trains here, DF5, DF4D and DF8’s but no steam. Staff said the QJ hadn’t come out of the depot for over a week. But before then on busy days it would shunt out once or twice.
After about 30 minutes, I’d seen enough diesels so we thanked them and left for Jixi. Had KFC, and then into a huge department store close by. Amazingly, there was a photography section and plenty of good tripods. Got a really nice solid one negotiated from 550 to 320Y. Went back to the hotel. I now had three tripods so posted the one (minus head and handles) back to Hong Kong.
After post office, we negotiated a taxi to Didao system for 25Y. Taxi driver was very friendly and after a few exchanges, was soon pointing out interesting pieces of railway related architecture. He pulled over when a DF8 freight approached and helped with camera equipment. Unfortunately I can’t tell you much else, he left pretty quickly after dropping us off at the CNR interchange and had no number plates on his car!
Outlook built to oversee trains on the bridge. Locals claim it to be Japanese built, but Japanese experts say it is Russian design ; Jixi Taxi man - this one's for you!
SY 0950 (1975) was waiting with a 10 car empty at the CNR interchange. This engine was in a rather sorry state. The connecting rods are orange from rust and there are large rust patches on the smoke box door and lamp visor missing, and as usual covered in filth. I suspect this will be the first engine to go from this place. Waited for its spectacular departure. Awesome video with my funky new tripod, plenty of steam, wheel slip, whistles and worn bushes clanking away.
SY 0950 with 10 empties at Didao CNR interchange
Took bus back for 3 Yuan. I find it always easier to get taxis there and bus it back.
Woke early at 530 am and left for Dongchang again for the engine line up. Plenty of steam! 6 engines at once. One engine on this system is now dumped according to staff, I believe 1437. 1018 was receiving an overhaul during our stay. 0863 also came out briefly, but was quickly retired when the pilot fell onto the tracks, making one hell of a noise. For some reason the driver stopped it in the middle of the level crossing to inspect the damage, much to the displeasure of the waiting motorists. A few taxi drivers got out of their cars and started dishing out abuse to the crew after 10 minutes, obviously carrying unhappy passengers, and the engine retired back to the servicing siding.
Pilot from SY 0863 has fallen onto the tracks
Went to Didao at about 10am after the line up was over and the trains dispersed. Got some beautiful shots that morning. There were three steamers outside Didao washery. One loco left shortly after to the tip, but a forth engine showed up rather quickly. We stayed at the pedestrian crossing inbetween the washery and a small steep siding. This loco did a run up and pushed 6 loaded KF60 self dumping hoppers up the short steep hill. The lead car had a dog box on the end complete with enclosed cab, headlight and air horns!
KF60 with dog box ; unloading KF60 hoppers
Got some good pictures and video from here, but unfortunately we had one worker who was determined to walk in front of our shots and show off in front of the other workers. They (and I) didn’t find him funny so we walked away and photographed something else. He soon got bored and left.
Didao Washery
I was starting to get exhausted and very sick of Jixi. A lot of the photos didn’t seem like they would turn out and the video was also a little plain, despite some good luck. I also had the flu and Vinci was now starting to get that, so we went to the station and booked tickets for the N68 Jixi – Mudanjiang train for the next day. Sleeper tickets on this service are non-existent, so we were stuck with hard seats.
Woke up early and headed out to Hengshan system. We were dropped off by the taxi at the interchange yard, and headed up to where the steam was almost straight away. It seems the car shortage is now over. There were lots of long strings of brand new blue C70 hoppers. These look identical to the C62’s, apart from the colour. 2005 built DF5 2056 works the CNR exchange yard. Oddly enough, there is a pot plant in the cab!
Four steamers were in the assembly yard, being filled. I liked the Hengshan engines. Some features are painted yellow, like pilot wheel centers, air reservoir straps etc. The special loco 1095 was the only one doing any real work at the time. It pulled in a large drag of empties from the interchange, and then pushed them into another track. At least 30 cars, and constant wheel slip for about 10 minutes. Video and still photography was not particularly successful here due to the overcast skies, which soon turned into a snow shower.
Hegang servicing point
Huge problems boarding train at Jixi. Due to no seating allocations, what started as one person pushing soon turned into a crush. Vinci was pushed up against an oil rail heater against the wall getting burns and bruises. Got through eventually after yelling some good old Aussie slang. I even got a voice of support from a young girl behind. Took a train back to Mudanjiang at about midday and arrived at about 330pm. We saw the two QJ’s at the power station as we passed.
No trains at all to Meihekou, our next port of call, for the rest of the day. Only option (apart from sleeper bus – no thank you) was to get a train 2052 to Shenyang the following day. This was the only train to Shenyang until the following day. Booked soft sleeper tickets for 515Y. Stayed at the Golden Dome international hotel. Now this was a REAL hotel! Albeit expensive @ 340Y per night for a double. Rooms were very nice. Even had a safe and internet through the TV. Large photograph on bedroom wall with the Harbin high speed train going over a bridge. My kind of room! Even the toilets were clean enough to fall into. It’s quite amazing how close the passenger jets get to the centre of Mudanjiang. No wonder there is red strobe lights on many of the buildings – including our hotel. Very heavy snow for the rest of the evening.
Left at 10:19 am for Shenyang. The line to Harbin is very scenic. Lots of mountains, curves, tunnels etc. Of particular note on the Bin-Sui line is a station called Heng Zhou De He (marked Heng Dao He Zi on my quail map!). Next to the station is an old locomotive depot, complete with a huge roundhouse! It looks like it has been out of use for many years and I have since had this confirmed as built by the Russians, not the Japanese. As we were on the move I couldn’t see much, but there may be some very interesting artefacts around the compound. Also at a station called Shanzhi is an impressive foot bridge that spans the three platforms and is constructed from 1921 Tennessee rails!
The roundhouse at Heng Zhou De He ; Good ol' American steel
Arrived at Harbin around 5pm. Uneventful journey to Shenyang.
Harbin Railway Station at sunset taken from our train ; Lovely SS4G near Harbin
Arrived late in Shenyang just after midnight but had just enough time to make N175 after running from our train to that one. Got soft sleeper to Meihekou for 127Y. Train was DF4B hauled and we arrived at 5am. Booked overnight tickets to Beijing on service 2538 for the 18/19th. No sleepers available but had plenty of hard seats so took those. About 100Y.
Our train to Meihekou had a relatively clean toilet, quite rare, and thus warranted the photograph
Checked into the Meihekou Binguan, reputed to be the best hotel in Meihekou. I would hate to see the worst! Toilet seats didn’t look promising either. Lots of things broken/missing and “temporary unability”. According to locals, the management like squeezing every possible Yuan out of everyone who stays so make sure you report everything to avoid a confrontation. As we had no sleep on the train, had a couple of hours of nod, then went to Yijing (Mine 1) with a share taxi.
This is the winch motor that pulls hopper cars slowly under the conveyor as they are filled
Snow everywhere, and as soon as we left Meihekou city, the whole area actually looked very beautiful. Taxi driver was most interested in why we had come. He told us he had seen many foreigners in the area, but had never known why.
The first train we saw was the morning passenger train from mine 4. It was the DFH5 diesel, which was a bit dis-heartening. I shouldn’t have worried though, as there was plenty of steam, and the diesel retired to the workshops for the next two days for an inspection!
Passenger train times have changed again. They are all 5 – 10 minutes earlier than previously reported – i.e., 210pm service is now 2pm and so forth.
Got lots of photos of SY 1662 outside the conveyor and was invited onto the footplate. The driver was a very friendly person and allowed me to sit in the driver’s chair and blow the whistle. We wandered over the engine depot. There is an old Manchurian green passenger car now used as a bike shed just outside. Outside the depot we soon met a few workers who were quite friendly. After about 10 minutes we had a crowd of at least 50 surrounding us. I brought out a small pouch of Aussie coins and pandemonium broke out! They were all taken. I told them it was good to meet them and started to head off, but they quickly invited us into the engine shed, an offer I couldn’t refuse. Last year Pingdingshan shed gave me palpitations. Meihekou engine depot was a lot smaller than PDS. There would be enough room for 4 SY’s on the two tracks, but this would be a very tight fit. It is a very dark shed, but the sunlight through the windows made for some unbelievable photos – better than I would have dreamed of! I am so glad I took the tripod (yes I’m still using film). Most of the shots were on 2 or 3 second exposure. In the yard that day was decorated engine 1216 cold and 1564 in for a whistle repair. As most of the action was happening around mine 1, we stayed around there and in the engine depot for the rest of the day. Much of the machinery in the shed is Japanese. SY 1445 is, in my eyes, dumped. Every single part is rusting. The water heater is gone, and a few other small pieces. Some staff did say it would be sent to Jinzhou for overhaul when 1216 goes in a few weeks time. But most, including the engine-shed supervisor said it was for spare parts only.
SY 1564 and 1216 in shed ; shed black board - note locomotive headboard underneath
The poor unfortunate 1445
1564 after whistle repair fires up
SY 1564 at the shed ; SY 1564 idles while 1662 drops her fire
We had lunch in a cracker of a restaurant, a Korean grille place. Service and food was brilliant. The menu was in Chinese, but I have since translated the whole thing into English and it is kept behind the counter. To get there, walk over the road bridge and head eastwards. It is on the same road about 2-3 minutes walk. The sign above the door has a picture of a Korean girl in a black and white striped kimono.
Share taxi back to Meihekou for only 5 Yuan!
Early start, but still too late for the engine line up outside the depot. We spent the morning at Yijing and Erjing (mine 2), but only after walking up line towards Sijing (mine 4) to photograph the return working of the steam passenger with super shine engine 1564. For some reason it came back light.
1564 returns light from Sanjing
At Erjing there were 2 trains, one was pulling hoppers through the conveyor, the other was passing through. The narrow gauge electrics at Erjing are quite extensive. Outside one of the narrow gauge workshops are about 15 mine wagons – all bent and twisted. Most of these were much larger than the regular 4 wheel carts used on the narrow gauges. This was not a particular friendly area, although we met no hostilities, most people were very suspicious of us. They didn’t even fall for my charming smile.
Interesting Narrow gauge generator car ; Army of the electricity savers
Luxury loco (with cab) ; Pauper loco (with no cab)
We revisited the engine shed where we were made very welcome again. The diesel was inside now and had bits and pieces strewn all over the floor with one worker constantly swearing at it.
Beautiful beast SY 1216 awaiting dispatch to Jinzhou for overhaul ; The DFH5 diesel
SY 1216 and 0791 at Meihekou depot
After another lunch at the Korean place (it really is good) walked to the mainline again and photographed/videoed the passenger coming down the mainline. The gradients are quite impressive on the kilometre or two of this straight section, particularly when looking down a telephoto zoom lens.
SY 1662 with the morning passenger train at Yijing ; 3 wheel cars are rife in North Eastern China
Spent the rest of the afternoon at the engine supervisors flat with his wife and young daughter and had a hot pot dinner. Yummy.
Don’t know what the Russians are complaining about with temperatures at minus 15 in Moscow. This was the coldest day we had topping minus 38C. With enough shots around the shed and Yijing, we went to the bridge before the CNR interchange at Heishantou and got there in time for a tender first train with 45 empties from Heishantou. We also got the return working of the rail car, plus a working of SY 1217 with a loaded train. Although this train was equally long and much heavier, not much steam as it is all down hill into Heishantou. As this train neared the end of the bridge at walking pace, it suddenly opened the throttle and the serenity of the rural area was destroyed by chuffing and worn bushes. Much wheel slip, black smoke and steam shooting into the air.
A train of empties struggles up the grade over the bridge at Heishantou ; SY 1564 coasts into Heishantou with a loaded coal train
We went back to Yijing to say farewell to the engine shed staff and thank them for their hospitality. Here we were asked to come inside one last time. Glad I did, once again, two steamers inside, this time 0791 and of course 1216. 0791 was simmering away, having dropped its fire for its routine inspection.
One of the workers jumped on top of 1216 and asked me to join him on the cab of the roof. Although these engines are comparatively small to QJ’s, they are HUGE when standing on the cab roof looking down!
SY 1216 ; On top of the world
Another view of SY 1216 ; SY 1564 as seen from underneath SY 1216
One of the senior staff workers at the engine shed took me for a tour of the narrow gauge around Yijing. From the NG line that runs directly behind the engine shed is a fantastic vantage point for video or photographing the passenger departing Yijing station. Just watch out for those overhead wires! He then took me to Yijing mine itself where I was able to film coal being loaded into the hoppers. The cars here are dragged through very slowly via a winch system on remote control. We ascended the massive tower to the forth floor where the large bins are filled from the conveyor that runs to the top floor. We were about to go to the top floor, but were stopped when the mine supervisor saw us and refused entry citing safety reasons.
Ice melts off the cab of SY 1217
SY 0791
Again down to Heishantou bridge where we got 2 steam workings. Staff told us very rarely do trains work this section after midday. Unfortunately after this my stomach wasn’t right and I soon discovered it would be unwise to travel more than a few hundred meters from a toilet. So we missed the rest of the steam and ventured to the CNR mainline, photographing diesel freights – mainly DF4C, DF5 – one in a very strange green colour. We also made a very exciting discovery thanks to one of the drivers of DF5 1166 who told us there was a QJ at Meihekou. And so it was! Decorated 6730. It is plinthed in the diesel locomotive facility as mentioned on Duncan’s site. Access here is extremely tight; so don’t expect to even see it. We were one of the lucky ones.
Freight movements are constant on the Meihekou CNR mainline
Meihekou overall - Dieselisation is coming to this system so if you haven’t seen it, get there soon. Next diesel will be there in a couple of months – apparently not another DFH5 – and it should all be over by 2007, unfortunately much to the delight of the workers. With 1216 out of action and the diesel too, traffic was very high on the system and engines were never lying idle for more than a couple of minutes. Meihekou was easily the most successful area we visited in our two weeks. Mudanjiang came close too - who can resist high deflector QJ’s?? Meihekou is very easy to navigate and sun is usually in the right position. All locos face south.
Sun setting so made our way to Meihekou train station for our run back to Beijing. The station was packed with people, and another crush happened, but not as bad as at Jixi. We finally got on board only to find the train was well overbooked and once again, no seating allocations left me standing in the aisle with another 20 people or so. We tried to upgrade to sleeper, no go. Then restaurant, that was full. Finally tried the baggage car, but no luck there too. After about an hour in, we convinced him to sell us hard sleeper tickets for full price and allow us to sit on the fold down aisle seats. Definitely not a comfortable 14 hour ride, especially with explosive diarrhoea. but we made it! We met a very friendly soldier on the train from Tonghua who was very happy to receive my last photos and equally eager to learn English. He even offered us his cabin. The hospitality of many of the Chinese is beyond words and always makes China a unique and rewarding experience.
Not too much of interest on the daylight hours on the way back. SS1’s were nice to see in abundance again, and lots of SS4’s also- of which I’m a big fan. At the Beijing locomotive depot were strings of SS9G’s, DF11G’s plus a green DF11Z, both NY7’s, and about 8 BJ class – double and single variants. Cathay Pacific to Hong Kong on Feb 20 for a week with the inlaws– slept well that night!
Here I am, as happy as Larry
The photos in this trip report and more, in larger format, can be found in the photograph gallery.
