1 January, 2001 - Over the Pond

It’s already new year’s day but who’s counting? I’m on my way to Italy, though a bit more lonely than expected. Aaron’s plane was delayed out of Minneapolis so he couldn’t make it to Detroit in time to meet our flight. He’s been re-routed to Paris and will be in Rome by 6:00 tonight. I really feel his presence, or lack there of. He’s invited a friend of his, I’m looking forward to meeting him and getting to know him; perhaps even getting to know Aaron a bit better through him. This trip is excellent – an opportunity to reconnect with old friends and better establish new ones.

Wow, hard to believe I’ll see Dazz in just a few hours. Hard to believe that we’ve been on opposite sides of the Pond for 2 ½ years now. Such vivid memories of travels that took place so long ago. Te Nikau will always be near to my heart, as will so many other amazing memories. Even at 24 I have had so many cool experiences and I’m so far from completing them! It feels good to look at yourself and realize that you are the person you’d always wanted to be when you were young and dreaming of the future. I am so much braver, and yes, crazier, than I ever was, taking some risks on occasion and doing the things that truly make me happy How much one can change in just a few years! How much other people and situations can cause you to change, can feed you the need to grow and be more than you are today. I can already tell, or feel rather, in the short time I’ve known them that Aaron, Josh and Al are going to impact my life in immeasurable ways. How will I impact theirs?

That familiar red line in the sky, the blanket of fluffy white stretching out to meet it. The last time I saw this I was leaving Australia. Seems like a long yesterday ago. I’m not too anxious now as I was when I started today. Holy cow, it’s the French Alps! Just below me, amazing and sprawling and probably about to be filled with skiers.

1 January - Grounded

First day in Rome and still without Aaron but I’ll get to that. Dazz and I met up in a happy reunion, we had heaps of time until Aaron’s plane so we went into the city and did some exploring. We saw the Colosseum, the Forum, and other ancient marvels, though none were open today and new year’s day is a national holiday here. Fun just to stand next to the sights, touch the great stone walls of the mighty Colosseum and imagine what lives were lived out there. Turns out Aaron never got on that flight to Roma, it’s midnight, nearly 7 hours after we arrived at the airport to meet them, and we still have no idea where he and his friend are. Perhaps they were on an earlier flight and we missed them? Everything is closed today so I can’t email him and tell them where we are, what can be done?

2 January

Second day in Roma, went to St. Peter’s Square at the Vatican at 11.00am which, for future reference, is an awful idea. ‘Go early in the morning’ is a sound piece of advice, thanks Rick Steves. I’m sitting in a park at the moment, nearly fell asleep twice here in the sun. Now the breeze is negating any warmth the sun ever felt for me, but it’s still pretty. There’s a guy near a tree over here who, the more I notice, is staring at me. Flattering, yes; a tad unnerving, yes. I need to learn more Italian.

3 January

Happy joy smile! In Sorrento, south of Napoli. Dazz is telling me a bit about our location tomorrow, Pompeii; the Roman city that was buried in 30 feet of molten ash and mud when Mt. Vesuvius blew in 79 AD. We had a lovely dinner tonight and enjoyed strolling along the narrow old streets which were lit up with strings of white lights hanging overhead. Heard from Aaron, he and his friend are still in Paris and are training it to Roma, will arrive on Friday. Good to know what’s happening there, looking forward to finally seeing them!

Pompeii

Holy cow, this place is amazing, beyond anything I had ever anticipated. Nearly the entire city has been excavated – it’s like walking through a deserted town. We’ve been here about 4 hours and can’t get enough. How grand this place must have been, to see it just before it was buried alive. Really if you think about it, it’s just a town of people going about their business, ordinary people, families living their lives like anyone else. And in a way it’s not just that. To think of all the life that passed through these streets, under these arches, is mind blowing to me. And now I’m here, in this place.

The preserved bodies of victims are humbling, their small bodies stretched or curled up in fear, cast in a final pose of chaos and terror. Amazing and agonizing to think what they went through.

5 January

There are all these people on the train asking for donations and I have no idea what the hell they're actually saying. Guess that makes me an illiterate, heartless Americana. I don’t honestly think there is anything I could do in all goodness and generosity to change that. I’m an American and therefore a bastard. I have established that I’m not European, or Italian anyway, material. Couldn’t hack it here – everyone cares about fashion so everyone wears the same damn clothes, does the same things, etc. No creativity, hardly any visible individualism. I realize these are just sweeping generalizations, an easy way to deal with one's own anxiousness. This is an amazing place and I’m so glad to be here. Perhaps I just miss my friends.

6 January

‘Well it’s all happening,’ as my friend Kevin used to say. Got an email from Aaron detailing that they’ve changed plans yet again and will be in Pisa and Florence before heading to Rome. I replied to his message with a rather unhappy, very female message; my irritation must have been obvious, and now I doubt that he will actually call at all as he promised. I don’t blame him really. He’s just making the best of his situation and having a hell of a lot more fun than me in the process. I’m not mad, just disappointed and frustrated that I keep making an effort to meet up with them and they do something else to get further away instead. Anyway, now Dazz is back in the UK and I have all day tomorrow to myself in bella Roma to do as I wish, then Special K arrives on Tuesday – yaayyy! I’m looking forward to seeing her and spending time with her, I can’t believe we’ve not seen each other since August! Wow! Kimber will somehow make me forget all the negative feelings I’ve been drowning in lately. I just don’t want to waste one more minute on anyone else but me on this holiday…

7 January

I’ve made it to the Pantheon; the outside was impressive enough, but inside where I’m sitting… almost silencing. One of the few ancient Roman buildings left intact by the Barbarians and other Romans (it was deemed a church for martyrs, so they left it alone). It truly amazes me, especially the dome and circular skylight/vent. Its construction has always amazed and mystified the most talented architects and ordinary people, just like me right now. To watch the clouds pass over us is peaceful and calming, just as it must have been to the Romans who first trod on these marble floors. The probably also appreciated the natural light and ventilation.

I’m at Largo Argentina, site of some of the oldest ruins in Rome; this is the site where Julius Caesar was assassinated. Unbelievable. This is why I love Europe – all the history that I can take the smallest glimpse into and be a part of. It amazes me that so many Europeans can pass these places every day and not appreciate them. Dazz says they’re just used to them, they’ve ‘always been around’. Not where I’m from, brother…

I’ve done some absolutely top walking today; I’ve practically hit all the metro stops on this side of the river. I’ve seen the Pantheon, cathedrals, had panini at Piazza Navona, climbed the Spanish Steps, and had lemon gelato. What more is there? I was tempted to buy myself a rose from the vendor who passed by, but I’m not sure how closely that borders on sad. I won’t get one any other way so why not? Are my socks blue or black?

Saw this quote on a statue of Byron at the park in Rome:

‘But I have lived, and have not lived in vain: My mind may lose its force, my blood its fire, And my frame perish even in conquering pain; But there is that within me which shall tire Torture and Time, and breathe when I expire.’ - Childe Harold IV CXXXVII

And we’re back at Termini. Not for anyone but me this time. I’ve got my ticket to the airport and much to Dazz’s delight or perhaps relief, I’ve just eaten. Food has been my last priority here, though considering where I am perhaps I should bump it up a notch or two. It is Italy for Christ’s sake. I’ve been getting a lot of looks and odd sounds directed towards me lately. This is apparently how Italian men make their mark, or try to get your attention. By 'odd sounds' I mean hissing, audacious coughing, hacking, strings of vowels, and general pick up lines. Perhaps because I’m alone, perhaps because I walked with such a purpose today. Today was fun, I did what I wanted when I wanted. I hope I can learn to travel better with other people.

8 January

It’s still pissing down outside; just came back in to eat. I’m wondering whether to go back out or not and brave the wet. It’s 7.00pm, no need I guess, with every Pakistani in Roma trying to sell me an umbrella. Don’t want to spend the money, don’t want to stay dry. Wet is fun… I bet the Trevi Fountain is deserted.

I got sick of my siesta this arvo and dodged puddles over to the cinema. George Clooney’s new flick, ‘Brother, Where Art Thou?’ (or rather, ‘Fratello, Dov’e Sei?’ in Roma) was playing. Dubbed in Italian but I still held the plot and enjoyed it a lot. Wandered around the back streets looking for some cheap pizza, mission accomplished. Kimber arrives tomorrow, glad I remembered that little tidbit at the airport this morning. One more tick on the ’Raving Idiot’ board – perhaps that peg game at the Cracker Barrel is more truthful than anyone would like to admit…

12 January

Damn has this been a fun few days! Kimber arrived on Tuesday, it was so good to just see each other, let alone know that we had the whole week to experience endless adventures in a foreign country together. We trekked all over Roma, I took her to my most memorable places over the last week. We loved the Pantheon and the Colosseum – we even had our photo taken with two of those tacky Roman soldiers! They called me 'Barbie' presumably because of my hair; lucky for them they were wearing their Roman Centurion-issued cups. Had cappuccinos, beautiful gelato, just wandered and genuinely appreciated all that was around us. On Wednesday we went to the Vatican and experienced St. Peter’s Basilica. It was a monstrosity of awe. Its construction and décor were beyond comprehension. We couldn’t help but feel, however, a pain of sadness as we marveled. All these priceless riches stockpiled in the midst of so much poverty and hunger and death in the world. The whole thing seemed ostentatious and expressly contrary to the teachings of Jesus. The most impressive thing there was Michelangelo’s ‘Pieta’ – the reality and emotion of the sculpture was beyond words. I can't believe that he was just 24 when he created that sculpture. Skipped the museum and chapel in order to get a train to Firenze (Florence). We have a wonderful friend there, Laura, who goes to WMU and is on scholarship at an art school in Firenze for a year. We stayed with her and her six lovely housemates for a bit. Laura took us to Uffizi and Accademia, two of the best art museums in the world. It was fantastic to be there with Laura, she knows so much about the works and the artists. It was truly special to be able to not only look at the art but to honestly appreciate it. My personal favorites were seeing Botticelli's 'Birth of Venus' and walking in circles around Michelangelo's 'David' sculpture for nearly half an hour. Sculpture or no, David is the most beautiful man I have ever seen. I fell in love with his legs. I discovered that I am a leg girl. I took a photo of just his leg. You have to see it to understand, but should you ever go to Accademia, walk around David and stop on his left side. Just marvel at the luscious, lifelike curve of each muscle and tendon. We had an excellent meal at the trattoria three doors down; the proprietor, Antonio, loves Laura and the students, he gave us cheap food and free lemon liqueur after dinner (Special K calls it ‘lemon pledge’, she’s not a fan). We wandered around the street markets this morning looking at leather jackets, scarves, and David statues (I know I’ll end up getting one, it’s inevitable). We are now on a train to Assisi, home of St. Francis of Assisi (who would have guessed). We’re looking to experience a bit of rural life…

I just have to say this now. I have to give a big 'grazie' to Rick Steves, or his guide to Italy rather. Rick, you are amazing! I have stayed at some of the most interesting yet affordable hotels and experienced some excellent food because of Rick. The guidebooks are full of everything you want to know without going into encyclopedia-like details - this of course means that you spend more time doing what you want rather than sifting through your damn guidebook. Kimber and I can't say enough about it. This is the best travel book I've ever used, period. Thanks Rick!

13 January

HAPPY BIRTHDAY KIMBER!!!!!

What an amazing and wonderful two days this has been! K and I spent yesterday and today in Assisi, a small hilltown in the Umbria region. It’s stunning, especially at night. WE had the best time there, stayed at the Martini house with Annalisa and her mother (both are exceedingly sweet and incredibly enthusiastic, what I might be like if I were Italian perhaps except for the sweet bit). We just walked everywhere, stone steps leading up to medieval archways and temples. The pizza man was amazingly sweet to us, as was the couple at the beauty shop we visited. They inundated us with free samples of gels, lotions, and cremes when I bought just one small bottle of shampoo. Handmade candles and ceramics, everything was just small and charming and beautiful (and not crowded, I love the off season)! I’ve changed my plans again and am spending my last week in Assisi; I just can’t leave this place yet…

It was so cold in Assisi today! At least it didn’t snow, I’ll always be thankful for that. K andI are on our way back to Firenze for a night of dancing and general merry making, then on to Pisa tomorrow and back in Roma by evening as Kimber flies back on Monday. As soon as she gets on that train I’ll be getting my ticket back to Assisi. I miss it already…

14 January

God my neck hurts! It’s almost 5.00am, we just got back from the dance club where we kicked ass for hours! I even met a nice Sicilian man, Francesco. He was the only guy who wasn’t a sleazy little octopus, actually had something to say which was refreshing. K and I rocked the house!

Waking up to the sound of church bells and sunlight swimming through the window. Looked out and saw a cat on a rooftop trying to figure out how to reunite with the welcoming ground both intact and feet first…

15 January

Hello! Crazy day this has been so far. Got up super early to walk down to the internet place before the rush, then took K over to Termini (home sweet home) and boarded the train. Said our good-byes and headed off. As I was walking along not more than 20 yards, whom should I pass but Aaron and his friend! He looked exhausted, surprised to see me but not a happy demeanor. He said that they were going home early, they’d done enough and wanted to go home and visit friends and such. I’m sorry that Aaron couldn’t come with me and enjoy Assisi this week, but he’s made his plans and frankly looked too tired to really enjoy it. We said our good-byes and I went back to the hotel to get packed up for my trip and send some emails. I can’t believe how upset I was two weeks ago about Aaron and I not meeting up, it all seems so silly now. I’ve learned so much and am a better person now than I was two weeks ago because of this little adventure. Everything happens for a reason. Aaron is very good at reminding me of that. I sent a short message to Francesco, my gentleman from the disco on Saturday. The Sicilian, ooohhh… I wonder if he will write back, or if I’ll see him when I get back to Firenze next weekend. That would be crazy, to actually see him in the daylight. He was lovely and nice and fun.

On yet another train and I think this is one of the SLOW ones. No matter, it says I’ll be in Assisi by 4.30 or 5.00, I’m doing well. Well, it looks like one person will sit with me. He looks nice, on business, older, reminds me of Francesco (only F is cuter). I honestly shouldn’t say that since the entire time I spent with him was in danceclub lighting. Everyone looks good in danceclub lighting. Laura said he was cute. She won’t let me forget it, she says. Who said I want to? Why am I talking about this? Anyone else want to hear about my Italian dance partners? I didn’t think so…

16 January

Back in Assisi and it feels pretty good. Or pretty cold actually. Every since Saturday when K and I left it’s been freezing here I’m told. Last night was just brutal, this morning I can see my breath, but between my two-layer system and hiking up and down the ancient hilly streets, I think I’ll be fine.

This is the life – sitting in a beautiful, warm café in Assisi with two ‘baci di Assisi’ (‘Kisses from Assisi’, lovely pistachio cookies) and a cappuccino. The woman at the counter was lovely, so sweet and hospitable and non-english speaking – excellent! I don’t know quite how to describe these ‘baci’, but they’re damn good.

It’s still siesta here, so I’ve been wandering around the streets as the shops are closed until after 4.00 or so. I walked beyond the city walls to San Damiano, a seminary/church where Saint Francis had one of his first religious epiphanies and helped in its restoration. I also happened upon the building that used to be Francis’s home as a youth. The ground floor, the former location of his father’s store, is now a shrine to Francis. To stand there and know that Francis was a young man there, making plans for himself that were to change so dramatically, just a very odd and sweet feeling.

Speaking of neat feelings, my neck feels much better now. I couldn’t believe how awful it felt these last couple of days. It was like having a hangover. No more rambunctiousness for me… no overly enthusiastic headbanging anyway.

17 January

It’s mid-afternoon, my pizza man is either closed today or not open yet, so here I am at the Gran Caffe. It’s cold and pissing down rain outside, well more spitting than pissing really. But it’s not nice. I went to Rocca Maggiore (the big castle) this morning and got lost wandering. Did some shopping and met some beautiful people, it was fantastic! A sweet nonna (grandma) who thought I spoke Italian beautifully ( I had to laugh but was flattered) and an old man (nonno) with gorgeous artwork of the region. I don't know how we managed it but my bella nonna and I carried on a conversation for 15 minutes in mangled italian, it was so much fun! I don’t know where I’m going to put all this stuff when I fly back…

I find times like this odd; I’m in Gran Caffe, just me and the sweet woman who owns it, and I haven’t said a word to her. If either of us spoke the other’s language, I would no doubt be deep in conversation with her about the town, her café, etc. Anything really, just to converse and enjoy someone’s company and stories. A good example of why learning another language is so important – just to open the door to learning so much from so many others that would be impossible otherwise. I want to continue with french; perhaps that is my next travel goal then.

This place is just beautiful. The café, the street, the town, the construction workers… seeing if you’re paying attention. The re-read can be just as entertaining as the initial writing. Damn, I wish I could talk to this woman! She’s so beautiful and gracious, I’ll bet she has some great stories. I’m gong to have to work hard to find places like this in the States; places where I can continue my newfound tradition of afternoon caffes, meandering walks, occasional naps, all the little things that have added to my time in Italy so richly.

20 January Leaving already! Ciao Italia! I’ll miss so many things; gelato (I have my priorities don’t I), cappuccino, Roman ruins, architecture, art, history, great fruits and veggies, the tiny cars and tricycle trucks, rows of motorscooters, wandering tiny medieval streets, need I continue? I will most definitely come back here. Cheers again to Rick Steves and his contributions to my amazing three weeks in Italy! Grazie bello!

I’m sitting here thinking about how odd and great and interesting life is. You’re born, you’re raised by people who teach you a way of life, to say please and thank you (or not), to talk, walk, speak, and listen a certain way, to be a person in this place. Then you’re exposed to all kinds of other people who were raised by very different people who taught them to live and think a certain way. You meet and part, or you stay and influence each other for a minute, a day, a lifetime. And one day, somewhat like 3 weeks ago, you set off to see other people in a different part of the world who’ve spent their lives learning and thinking things that couldn’t be more different from all you’ve learned and thought. So in these outstanding differences we find our one ultimate commonality.

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