Apparently it was a great mix of scenery, views, twisty roads, and speed breaking straights.
I’d also heard about Captain Thunderbolt, whoI knew was an infamous bushranger.
A quick look at the map told me that to do the whole Thunderbolts Way, from start to finish would take at least a couple of days.
With three days off work and a good (NEW) motorbike, there was no other excuse needed. An early morning start, had the bike purring down the back roads towards Wiseman’s ferry. This was the back way up the coast, at least until it became motorway time anyway.
As much as possible it was the old highway, going through Swansea to Newcastle.
The first stop was at Port Macquarie. A beautiful place, previously spoken about on another web page (go and look!). I did manage a couple more pictures there though.
The next day it was up the coast, looking for the Waterfall Way. This is the entrance inland, that goes up through the mountains (well kind of big hills really, but mountains sounds so good doesn’t it??).
Armidale was the goal for the next overnight stop. Armidale is a student town with a large university; that looks like it was plucked out of England and dumped there. Its about 170 kls from the coast, along a beautiful winding road. The climb up from the coast through Bellingen, is breathtaking to say the least. Unfortunately with constant twists and turns; and large logging trucks apparently in suicide gear (neutral), flying down the road, it was impossible to stop and take pictures.
Through Dorrigo and Ebor finds you on a plains type road towards Armidale.
Armidale was absolutely freezing (its known for this). A nice meal in the local pub with brilliant company, made it all worthwhile, even if the ride home, back to the motel was bloody freezing.
In the morning, it was a wait, to make sure that the roads were ice free. Then a quick jaunt to Uralla and the start of the legendary Thunderbolt’s way.
There was lots of low lieing fog, which was icy cold, but as soon as the sun really hit the sky, it was destined to be burnt off. A quick stop for a coffee and muffin at a small town, killed some time and allowed the sun to do its stuff.
OK… so just who was Captain Thunderbolt???
There are many story’s and you can pick the one you like best. I’d like to think of him as this though……..
Of all the bushrangers who engaged in their illegal and often colourful careers in Australia during the first 100 years of white settlement, Thunderbolt, hero or horse thief, was at large for probably the longest period.
For almost six years and six months, he was pursued by regular mounted Police, especially commissioned bounty hunters and enlisted Aboriginal trackers.
Bushrangers were regarded as heroes by the battling small landholders, who also recognised their common enemy as the Government and the Law (Nothing has changed today!). They considered Thunderbolt to be a victim of circumstance and they sympathised and identified with him. The Police force was over governed by Parliament, was grossly underpaid, under trained and overworked and supplied with horses of dubious breeding (bit of a challenge!).
Fred Ward finally met his match on the afternoon of 25th May 1870. He 'bailed up" firstly John and Liza Blanch near their Inn, then Coghlan and an Italian hawker, Giovani Cappusotto. Resenting this action, Cappusotto alerted the Uralla police Officers Mulhall and Walker.
The Police exchanged shots with Thunderbolt and Constable Walker gave chase (on his sub-standard horse no doubt!). Thunderbolt was finally cornered in a waterhole in Kentucky Creek (How the hell can you get cornered in a waterhole???)some 4 kilometers distant. A coroner's Inquest was held on the body of Fred Ward at Blanch's Inn and he was buried in the Uralla cemetery.
Defiant Scoundrel Or Gentleman Bushranger?
Thunderbolt began his life as Frederick Ward at Wilberforce near Windsor, N.S.W., in either 1835 (or another reference states 16th May 1836). The birth date is not recorded. His father was a convict, Michael Ward, transported to the colony in the “Indefatigable" in May 1815 and his mother Sophia arrived two months later in the "Northampton". About 1846, upon Michael gaining his convict freedom, the whole family moved to the Maitland area.
Fred Ward as a youth became well known for breaking and training horses. When he was about 20 years of age he fell foul of the Law. Helped by James Garbutt, they drove stolen horses from his brother William “Harry” Ward and Michael Blake's farm at Lambs Valley for sale at the Windsor sale yards (he stole from his brother???). Several of the horses were recognised as being Messrs. Zuill and Reynolds' property. Others were marked with the famous Tocal brand (Oh Derrrrrrrrrrr....).
Fred Ward and James Garbutt were sentenced to ten years each with hard labour (Now, that's the sentences we need today!!!), to the infamous Cockatoo Island prison in Sydney Harbour. On the 1st July 1860 Fred Ward was released on a ticket-of-leave to work in the Mudgee district. While working near Mudgee, he made acquaintance of Mary Ann Bugg, a well educated half-cast aboriginal girl who had been recently widowed. When she returned to the Hunter Valley to take up work at Dungog, Ward followed her. They married sometime in September I861, possibly at Stroud (Ahhhh... aint that sweet?). After their marriage he borrowed a horse to report to the Mudgee Police for muster, but on arriving late he found his ‘ticket-of-leave’ revoked for failure to "attend muster" (Bastards, he's only just got married!!!). In addition he was charged with stealing the horse and was sent to serve the remainder of his original sentence. Two weeks after Fred Ward’s return to prison, Mary Anne Bugg gave birth to their first child, Marina Emily Ward (Didnt waste time did he??).
Mary Anne Bugg followed Fred Ward to Sydney (It was Love!) and assisted him and another prisoner, Fred Britten, to escape from Cockatoo Island (That really was LOVE!!). They swam through shark infested water to the mainland on the night of 11th September 1863 (Super LOVE!!). The two men headed for New England and stole a double-barreled gun and some pork from a widow on Gostwyck run, near Uralla. Several days later, Sergeant Grainger came upon the escapees attempting to hold up a mail coach at the "Split Rocks" (soon to become known as “Thunderbolt Rock”) south of Uralla. Fred Ward was shot through the knee but managed to escape.
The two men separated and Ward alone robbed the tollbar at Campbells Hill near Maitland. He proceeded to pound on the wall of the office and demanded the surrender of the toll money. It was this act which earned him the name “Thunderbolt".
Thus began the bushranging legend of Fred Ward, also known as Captain Thunderbolt.
The following list records crimes purported to have been enacted by Thunderbolt and his gang over the following years:
- 25 mail coach robberies
- 16 hotels and stores
- 16 stations and residences
- 6 hawkers
- 1 tollbar gate
- 80 thefts of horses
- 1 escape from lawful custody
and numerous firing on Police in their line of duty.
Fred Ward relied on his ability to outwit and out distance the mounted Police and he would only resort to gunfire to hasten proceedings or when being fired upon. Other outlaws frequently joined him, but at times they became a liability. This brief account is typical of a Bushranger's life, "Fred Ward has again made his appearance in these parts by sticking up the mail man and rifling the mail bags. The mailman, after crossing a creek and on gaining the further bank, heard a horseman ride up behind him and order, 'Bail up'. He was ordered about 80 metres away while Thunderbolt opened and rifled anything of value, including an amount of gold from the pouch of the saddle". William Monckton (a compatriot of Ward), who narrated the book, "Three Years with Thunderbolt" gives many similar accounts. In addition numerous plays, films, books, poems and television mini series have villanised his numerous outrages on Her Majesty’s Mail and dramatised spectacular "bail ups" of passengers in mail coaches or wayside inns.
Thunderbolt had endured the worst of the Colony's barbaric convict system being twice imprisoned on Cockatoo Island.
Several times he suffered solitary confinement in its dungeons. His escape from this prison fortress embarrassed both the Government and its penal system. Fred Ward now became a bushranger by circumstance and for the following six years be defeated every attempt at recapture. During his freedom Fred Ward displayed great courage and at times compassion and humour. He was a champion horseman and a wonderful judge of a well bred horse. Using these two characteristics, Ward continually evaded capture.
His attachment to Mary Ann Bugg in his early career and his attempt to settle as a family was greatly admired. The Police continually harassed his endeavours, which kept him on the move, at times leaving Mary Ann and the children to fend for themselves. Twice "Mrs Captain Thunderbolt” was arrested and imprisoned and twice the N.S.W. Parliament debated her situation. Both times the N.S.W. Governor, Sir John Young intervened and ordered her release (Good for him!). Over a period of time Mary Bugg’s health became critical through being constantly compelled to be on the lookout for Police patrols. Fred Ward nursed her, but he was forced to seek help. Making her comfortable, he rode to Mrs Bradford's home on the Goulbourn River. Ward described her condition and the site of their hideout. Mrs Bradford and Rev White found the shelter and brought her back in a cart. Dr Brown and Constable Boon were sent for, arriving a few minutes after Mary had breathed her last. Thunderbolt indicated to Mrs Bradford that he was leaving there and going north. Within several weeks he had visited Goonoo Goonoo station and he now, possessed the thoroughbred racehorse "Combo". Thunderbolt's bushranging escapades have now become history. It was his skill as a horseman, his love of horse racing, that the 'selectors" in the bush greatly admired. He acquired famous racehorses and either used them as common mounts to outpace the mediocre Police horses or he traded them for profit. Among his annexations were Beeswing, Combo, The Barb, Eucalyptus, Come-by-Chance, Toy Boy, Talleyrand and Kerosene.
Thunderbolt attended the Tenterfield races on 17th and I8th March 1868. He mixed freely with the patrons and saw Minstrel win the Maiden Plate of 40 sovereigns. He determined to acquire this racehorse as it returned to the Warwick district. Ward established himself at the spectacular Boonoo Boonoo gap to await Minstrel’s arrival. To fill time, Ward stopped a German Band following their season in Tenterfield. He obtained sixteen pounds which was all of the band's takings, considering this amount to be paltry, Ward had them perform their acts and play their musical instruments on the roadside. This delighted Ward and as the Band was leaving he handed Peter Wirth a small amount and asked for a forwarding address. Several weeks later Thunderbolt sent to Wirth's Band in Warwick a letter containing the full amount of purloined money (An honest theif!!).
134 years have passed since Thunderbolt's death near Uralla, but stories of his exploits still circulate in the Uralla district. How great-grandfather met Thunderbolt one day while mustering cattle in a lonely place and shared a yarn and a billy of tea. Similarly, great-grandmother would hang a blanket as a signal on the clothes line if troopers were riding in the area. Other families would leave food in an outhouse on the off-chance that the bushranger would pass that way.
On to the pictures……
Just thought this was a neat picture thats all!!
The grass crunched here. Actually.... the dog shit crunched as well!!!
It's part of the Golden Chain so he knew it was good.
You can also take a virtual tour from this page.
