This is not a "how-to-build-a-Unicorn" page. Mark Chamberlain (designer and producer of the Unicorn) made an excellent building manual that you can download from the Unicorn site. This is more or less how I build my 'Corn, with some comments what I did different and some more detailed pictures of some of the more intricate parts of building this wonderfull flying wing.

With hindsight (and being much more experienced now), there are a few things I would have done different.
The pushrods
There is nothing wrong with how they are done originally. My 'Corn flies great as is. However, there is another way you can install the pushrods.
Instead of using the supplied pushrods, use flexible pushrods that can be buried in the wing. This will enable you to put the control horn in the middle of the elevon, and give you much better control. Your wing will be much "cleaner", giving you (arguably) more speed, and grass/trees/bushes/branches can not catch your wing so easily.
Also, by using these rods you can move on to another improvement;
The servo position
Like most flying wings, the CG (Center of Gravity) is critical. Get this wrong and your wing will be unflyable.
By moving the servos, not further out for better elevon control (as is done with the original rigid pushrods), but positioning them closer to the centerline, and further forward (as is possible by using flexible rods, you will be able to get to the correct CG much easier. As added bonus you wil have most weight close to the centerline, which should make for a more nimble wing.
Motor
The Unicorn flies great on the standard speed 400. But after flying my 'Corn now for more then seven months, I want some more "pep" and am now looking into going brushless.
Covering
Packing tape may be the lightest covering. And it certainly is sturdy. But heatshrink covering material (like Solite, Ultracote, etc) just looks nicer, and is easier/invisible to repair. If I go brushless within the next few months, next winter I will remove all packing tape, spackle and sand the wing nice and smooth, and cover with Solite.

Just out of the box.
I couldn't help myself, and just had to see what she would look like:

To make life a bit easier, I did not glue the wing halves together as per the instructions just yet. I thought it would be easier to do as much as possible before glueing them together, so I would fiddle around with one 24" piece at the time, instead of the full size 48". Also because my "worktable" was the diningroom table, and I had to be able to clear "the mess" quickly for dinner etc.

Figuring out how and where to put the Rx. Because I am using the small Berg5 I can make a Rx cavity, and cover it with foam. This way it will be even more secure. With hindsight, I could have made the cavity more forward. This would have helped getting the CG right. Also, I cut the antenna and soldered a plug between the Rx and the antennea. This way I can "share" my Rx with future models...








Cutting the antenna channel. To make an even depth channel I CA'd a piece of scrap wood to the knife blade.

I used a 6" and a 12" servo extension cable and tried to get the servos as far to the wing tip as possible. I do not have a router, so I had to make the servobays by hand. I drew around the (GWS Park)servo and, as with the antenna cavity, used a piece of wood CA'd to the blade to cut out the outline and then cut criss-cross untill I could pull out tiny pieces of foam with a pair of tweezers. This is time consuming and makes a mess, but you must go slow in order not to pull out too much foam!


This is what she'll look like! I kept the wing in the beds as much as possible, thereby preventing any damage before the covering.


And this is what the flip-side looks like. The servo wiring is pushed into the end of the carbon rod cavities. Any excess wire is doubled up in the same cavity.

I covered the motor tube with the silver glitter stuff that came with the kit, and glued the wing halves together as per instructions.







Polyeruthane glue is used to "fix" the carbon tubes. Having had no experience with this sort of glue, I experimented a bit on a piece of spare foam that came with the kit.

I cut out a little notch, and moistened it with a Q-tip I had dipped in water, and squeezed the water out. This picture is 10 minutes after I applied a small dot of Gorilla Glue.

This is about 30 minutes later.

And a side view. See how it expands?

Before I squeezed the glue in the carbon fibre rod cavities I lined both sides of the opening with masking tape.
With the first rod I left the cavity open so the glue could foam up, out of the cavity. This was a mistake I paid dear for. It is a rotten job trying to get those blobs of excess glue of. With the other cavities, I lined both sides. After squeezing in the glue I covered the area with more masking tape, and put some books on the tape to weigh it down.

After wrapping the servos in clear packing tape I glued them into the wing with a tiny drop of Gorilla Glue. I put some masking tape over them, and weighed them down with some books, to prevent the foaming glue from pushing the servos up

Fiber taping the wing.
Since I will be re-learning to fly, I put the fiber tape as per instructions and then some. I think I'll need it...







Since I have no experience launching/landing this flying wing, I decided to make a launching handhold/landing skid. The idea is to have something to hold while launching (instead of the famous Pizza Throw I have read about), and to protect the bottom of the wing when landing. There are not many nice soft grassy fields around here, so my pristine covering will suffer. I will use double sided tape to tape the skid to the battery cover.

It's not the worst covering job I've seen, but I've seen better as well.
I could easily loose some 30 grams with proper tape spacing.

Since this is the first Israeli Unicorn, and I'm in a patriotic mood, the Israeli flag on top,

the Israeli Airforce rondels on the bottom

and some more of the glitter stuff on the nose and wing tips.

Top view of the same.

Shaping the elevons. This is a neat construction hint; tape the elevon to the table. If I wouldn't have done that my tennis elbow would have played up something awfull.

Elevons ready to be attached.

And so are the winglets. I put some fiber tape on the bottom of the winglets, since the bottom will be sticking out from the bottom of the wing

Elevons are attached with one long strip of clear packing tape, and the throws are set as per instructions.

The winglets I initially attached with double sided carpet tape, but even before the maiden flight they fell of. Probably not the right tape. Instead I attached the winglets like most other wings do; some slits in the winglets, and fibertape looped through.

Time to charge the batteries.
I got some old Zagi packs from a friend (thank you Patrick)to start with, untill my funds allow me to order some serious battery power.

A water break-in for my Graupner speed 400 (again thank you Patrick)

Just to be sure, I checked the turning direction again, and the propeller position. I attached the motor with several elastic bands to a wrench, and made sure the prop was over the side of the table.

Motor assembly ready to be popped into the motor tube. Instead of using glue as per instructions, I opted for two pieces of duct tape on the motor, and a 1/2" slit in the motortube. The idea is to slide the motor into the tube with slight friction (from the duct tape) and to fix it into place with tiewraps.

And here is the motor in place with two tiewraps.

And here's the Unicorn almost ready for maiden

A terrible picture of me, but you can clearly see the skid and the white dot where the CG is supposed to be.

With the battery all the way in the nose I get the CG on 10 1/2"

Ready to fly 750 grams (26.5 Oz)
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