What Do You Expect For a Toonie, Anyway?

by Larry Jer

Ever wonder what kind of a meal a toonie could get you in Beijing? Like most, your answer is probably "no." But with the travel buck ailing and the prospect of spending USD makes you queasy, dare to dream a little. Why China?

If you're willing to try your hand at numerous street and small restaurants, and have an adventurous palate, you can for your toonie -- which converts to, say, ten yuan -- get a simple meal for two. Looking for something steady and comforting? You can always, for the same price, get a couple bowls of noodles most anywhere you turn. Three bowls if you're willing to forgo the sparse ambience and sit outside on a sawhorse at a street stall. Oh yes, no tipping, great custom.

My wife and I like to test local cuisine. Outside the flat we stayed, there sat a large trailer, half the size of a mobile home. I used it as a landmark to clue me into where my lodgings were which was just fine until one day we  returned from a day's outing to find four men pushing the trailer out of the courtyard and into the street. Once onto the main drag, they skillfully parked it beside a fleet of other trailers and at night, after six, my landmark became a restaurant. The cooking is done outside, the eating inside. Same temperature.

For under four bucks, you can order 20 skewers of lamb kebabs, sixty pork dumplings, and have a couple of giant beers. For your enjoyment, and this was a big bonus for me, you get to watch a VCD movie with English subtitles.

Even the lowly toonie can buy a dream or two.

Copyright 2001 Larry Jer

This article appeared in the Travel Section  of The Province, Vancouver, BC's largest daily paper.  When:  November 25, 2001