I meet J in the hotel lobby at 9:30. J is an internet friend. She works in the development department of a local hospital. We go to McDonald's for breakfast (a half-block away). I wanted to pick-up some throat lozenges and salt for my sore throat, so we stopped at the supermarket (across the street) on the way back. The supermarket was in the basement level of the building. The selection was quite good, and there were many western products on the shelves. We dropped-off the stuff in my room and headed out. We walked south along Wanfujing Street. This is a main shopping street in Beijing, home of the Beijing Department Store and other large stores and malls. Several blocks of the street are pedestrian traffic only, making for a very pleasant stroll on this pleasant 1st of November morning. I notice a bank that has an ATM that will take my ATM card; a Starbucks; and J points out a restaurant that has Chinese buffet for 15RMB (much better price than the 68RMB at the hotel!).
The day is hazy like yesterday, but the sun seems a little stronger, a little more hopeful. Even though it is only about 10:00 the street is busy, but not crowded. We walk about a mile or so to Dongchang An Street, and turn right (west), and we soon reach the famous Tianamen Square. On the south side of the wide street are the Museum of Chinese History, the Monument of the People's Heroes, and the Great Hall of the People. On the north side of the street is the smiling face of Mao above the entrance to the Forbidden City. The entire area is quite large, and I can imagine what a tumultuous place it must have been in 1989 when it was inhabited by thousands of students.
J and I talk about her memories. Her father is a doctor (now retired) and they were very upset at the soldiers for hurting the students. J has lived abroad for several years, and so she has seen much more information about June 4, 1989 than most other Chinese. We also note that many of the things the students wanted may have come true--more freedom, a better life. Perhaps the students lost the battle but in the long run they will win the war.
We pay the 2RMB charge and enter the Forbidden City, the home of 25 emperors over a period of 500 years. Built nearly 600 years ago, the Forbidden City is as big as many small towns, and with its labyrinthe of buildings, courtyards, gardens, and passageways, it is much more confusing. Walking its entire length from south to north it seems like it goes on forever. It is clearly one of the most awesome projects ever built by man, and even in the hazy sun its beauty and elegance are evident.
At the north end of the Forbidden City is the Palace Museum, which houses artifacts of the emperors and their time. Entry is a separate ticket of 40RMB, which is rather pricey for local people. But for me the price was definitely worth it. Some of the objects I had never known existed, such as fabric woven with strips of ivory, while others, such as giant jade statues (carvings), are simply bigger and better than any I had previously seen.
After exiting the Museum it was time for lunch. We walk around the plaza area near the north exit and find a lunch cafe with outdoor seating. For about 12 RMB each we have a decent lunch--mine a good beef and veggie and noddle soup. The tables seat 4, and are shared as needed. Next to us sit two middle aged men, and one of them attempts in broken english to ask me where I am from. With J's help we communicate a little although he apparently is from another province and speaks a different dialect than J. But the main thing about the man is how genuinely happy he is to see me, an American, and he wishes me a good visit!
Near the eating area is what looks like a throne with many people gathered around to watch. We walk over to get a better look. Yes, it is a fancy looking throne with a couple seated, wearing very ornate clothing. For a few RMB (I don't know how much) you can put on the emperor's clothing and sit on the throne and get your photo taken. There is quite a line of people waiting their chance to be royalty for five minutes!
Upon exiting through the North gate of the Forbidden City, we cross the street and enter Jianshan Park (another 2RMB). This is another large and beautiful park featuring a large temple on a very high hill. Unlike similar places in Japan and Korea, here one must climb the stairs to the top. It is quite a climb, but well worth it. On a clear day the view would be breathtaking, but today only the climb is breathtaking. Inside the temple is a Buddha, and looking north from the hilltop you can see other ancient roof lines in the hazy distance (also part of the park).
We exit out of the west gate of Jianshan Park and find a small local restaurant for lunch (seafood dumplings and tea; 20RMB total). We discussed about how I should go to see the Great Wall. If J goes with me we could take a local tour bus for much less money than the tour buses used for foreigners. We take a taxi to Qianmen Square and find the tour bus information sign. There are also some men selling spots on tomorrow's buses. We find out that yes, it would be much cheaper (as little as 50RMB per person, plus admission price at the Wall), but the bus leaves at 6:30 AM. As much as I like to save money, I simply am not interested in getting up at 5:45 AM. So we decide that I will take the foreigner bus (probably on Wednesday).
While walking near Qianmen Square we pass by a shopping area. There are many shops selling clothing, leather goods, luggage, small gifts, etc. The idea of a leather jacket had crossed my mind. I will be going to Europe in February, and it might be nice to have a warmer jacket. And, where would I ever get a lower price than here in China? So we go into a couple shops. The first shop has a good selection, and the prices are very good compared to the USA (about $100 for a jacket that would run about $200). But I am not yet sure. Later we pass another shop and go in to look. Here again the selection and quality seems good, but the prices are better. By the end of it I have purchased two jackets (one a sport coat style, the other a longer jacket) for less than either one would cost back home.
We finally find our way back to the hotel where I drop-off my purchases. We then walk to the Chinese buffet for dinner. For 15RMB (less than $2) each you can't beat it. Of course many of the dishes are real Chinese, and I don’t know what it is and don't want to know. But there are enough familiar things to make a good meal. We paid our money as we entered, and were each given a metal tray with indents for the various food items and a metal bowl for soup. You then go thru the line filling your tray, and you can refill your tray as often as you like. You do not receive a new tray for your refills.
After dinner we walk around the shopping area a little more. I find the ATM that will take my card and I replenish my cash supply. What did we ever do before ATMs? What did they call those things--traveler's checks? By now the evening has gotten short and it is time for J to get back home, and for me to get back to the hotel and rest-up (remember, I am nursing a sore throat).
When I get back to the hotel I go down to the hotel restaurant and listen to Wen play the piano for a few minutes before she quits for the night. She sounds a little better tonight--she is getting more into the groove of reading the music. We talk briefly and I tell her goodbye and good luck. By the time she returns to play again on Friday I will be back in Hong Kong.
Then its back to the room where I work on this journal, check my emails, gargle with hot salt water, and hit the sack.
Forbidden City
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