I have agreed to meet my friend J for lunch in Sha Tin, a relatively new city in what is called the New Territories, which is the area in Hong Kong between Kowloon and China. To get there I must take the MTR to Central, transfer to the Tsuen Wan line to Mong Kok; transfer again to the Kwun Tong line to Kowloon Tong, and then change to a KCR (Kowloon to China Railways) train to Sha Tin. The whole trip takes about one hour. J meets me at the exit from the Sha Tin station that opens into the New Town Plaza, a very large shopping mall adjacent to the station.
After stopping for a cup of coffee in the mall we walk along the side of the Shing Mun River which runs northeast to Tolo Harbor. It is cold out--overcast and breezy, about 12C. We walk downriver for about a mile, and then decide to find the 10,000 Buddha Monastery which is located back near the station. As we walk past the station we come across Pai Tau Village, an old section of Sha Tin which still has the original style houses that follow a valley that leads up into the hills. We can see a tall pagoda and so we walk towards it. It looks like a temple, a very fancy temple, and we follow the escalators and stairs towards the top. When we get to the first upper level we realize that this is not a temple. It is a grave site. It houses the ashes of thousands of people. We go all the way to the top, and then come down. It is an elegant and dignified place. Of course the escalators were an obvious indication--a temple would not have them or spend money for them.
After reaching the bottom we soon find the path to the 10,000 Buddha Monastery. There were signs, but the real evidence were the gold painted Buddhas with red lips that lined the walkway. I did not count the Buddhas, but the travel books confirm that there really are 10,000, and I cannot dispute this. The walkway, with concrete stairs on one side, and a concrete ramp on the other side, goes up the steep hill to the temple. We go all the way to the top. The giant Buddha on Lantau has 270 steps leading to it, but here there must have been several times that many. It was a really good workout! By now the weather had improved and the sun was out. There were several others who were also making the trek to the top, or who were already coming back down. As I told J, if they can do it so can we!
We actually walked up past the temple to an outbuilding that seems to be underoing repairs, and we then came back down to it. The temple grounds were very pretty, with of course even more Buddhas. The temple building had the usual primary Buddhas for prayer, but along the walls all the way to the very high ceiling were small Buddhas; about 10 inches high perhaps another 10,000? Incredible! Outside the temple were various shrines, and also large animal statues, including a white elephant included (considered very good luck), and a blue dog.
We walked back down via a different path, which took us right through Pai Tau Village. What a different life here in the hills, above the city, where everything must be carried in. There are no roads for cars here, just a paved ramp and/or stairway.
We walked back to the New Town Plaza and had lunch at Pizza Hut. We then walked thru Sha Tin Park, which is a large and pretty park along the river. Many families were out enjoying the now pleasant late afternoon. There were several ponds with fish and pretty bridges. There was also a pedestrian bridge across the river, and as we crossed the sun was beginning to get lower in the western sky. Soon J and I said goodbye and I got back on the train.
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Go to Hong Kong Part 4, pg. 9
Ten Thousand Buddha temple.