This camp is beautiful and resembles what we saw on the movie Fantasy Island. Exotic birds, plants, flowers, small waterfalls, and very important to me: clean beds, modern plumbing, and a lounge. Included in the price were three wholesome meals a day, which were as good as any we have had since leaving the US.
After lunch, we were taken to nearby Salto El Sapo which is a strong, beautiful waterfall. We played in the current and, hanging on to a large rope felt our way under the falls where we followed a path under the thundering roar to come out on the other side for yet another spectacular view. Wet just don’t describe what you feel when passing under all that water, it is an unforgettable experience.
That evening, we showered and headed for the Indian village for some shopping and fun. They make everything from baskets to blowguns and there are semi tame monkeys wandering around to entertain. Norma found a nifty woven basket to purchase. A hearty meal and a good night’s sleep back at the camp only partly prepared us for the following days events.
A quick breakfast of ham, cheese, pancakes and coffee and we’re off again. This time we loaded enough clothing and supplies for an overnight stay in the jungle. After about 30 minutes the captain of the canoe put us ashore explaining that the rapids were too shallow for a fully loaded canoe. We walked across a sandy trail in awe of the breathtaking view. It only took 30 minutes or so and stretching our legs felt good.
Rejoining the captain on the other side, we continued 3 more hours up river getting soaked in the rapids, which seemed to lurk behind every bend. Steep mountains towered over us with eerie gray clouds pouring from their tops. Rain showers could be seen in the distance as they crossed by in front of us but only the spray from our outboard driven canoe moistened us. We took a 30 minute rest about half way to the jungle camp to play in a small water fall with a pool, a definite photo opportunity.
The rapids became stronger and more frequent and the tea colored, tannic water was decorated more and more with white foam when, rounding a bend, Angle falls came into view. Shortly the captain eased our canoe onto a rocky bank and we climbed out onto the rocks. Here we ate a wonderful lunch and rested.
After lunch, we started a very rigorous climb that lasted about an hour. The trail was steep and rocky and covered with roots and slippery moss. I’m not sure how high we went but when we finished with the last nearly vertical 50 feet, we were winded. Our hot,red faces lit up the rain forest: however with the spectacular view of the falls, and the valley below, it all seemed worthwhile. The falls still towered over us and wind blew a cool mist covering us, creating a sort of air-conditioning. Picture taking was at its best. Lingering here for a couple of hours, found some of us stretched out on a rock for a nap.
The trip down was slippery and Norma fell hitting her head on a tree root. She being determined as anybody got up and exploring the new knot on her head, continued on like a trooper. There was our guide; four men and one woman in our group and by the end of this day three had fallen with no serious injuries.
Our captain was waiting to take us across the river to the jungle camp where we were to spend the night. Bathing was done in the cold river but nobody seemed to mind. The guide broke out a bottle of river-cooled rum and coke and we had a party on the beach where we had bathed. Chicken was roasting on sticks on the campfire and the cook was busy fixing mashed potatoes and onions. The meal was enhanced with wine and bottled water. Life is good.
After eating, we finished off the wine and visited. Two of the guests were from Spain and one from the Dominican Republic. None spoke much English but we were able to communicate quite well. Spanish lessons are paying off! We found our way to freshly make beds and brushed our teeth by candle light. The portable generator was only run for mealtime. Norma was given semi private sleeping quarters while the wrest of us slept in an open bay in bunk beds, reminiscent of basic training camp.
Early the next morning, we were awakened to the smell of fresh coffee and something resembling a western omelet. With the falls still watching from above, we loaded our gear and sped away down stream in the canoe. The rapids, now somewhat familiar, took on a new personality as our progress was swept quickly by the fast current. The trip back took only about two and a half hours.
Three of our companions quickly dressed and disappeared in the canoe, heading for home while Norma and I prepared for a quiet lunch and supper. We had the camp to ourselves and watched quietly as rain showers developed over the valley. Thunder rumbled, lasting the longest time, with no lightning to be seen.
After a leisurely breakfast the next morning, we said our goodbyes and boarded the canoe for our trip home. We found our plane waiting at the airstrip, boarded and were on our way. The Captain, knowing I had piloted, turned the controls over to me (once we were airborne). What a thrill, flying over the jungle, rivers, and falls watching the GPS direct our “ go to” course much as if we were sailing along on the ocean.
We are back aboard our boat Happy Ours now and the routine maintenance awaits.