| TRIP REPORTS 2004 January 18-19, Joshua Tree With Spencer. Stayed at the SCMA site at Sheep's Pass. The NPS is really screwing up the Park with the new "improvements". The new camping fees will no doubt add to the already oppressive atmosphere of the park. On Saturday we climbed at Planet X Pinnacle, a 5.8, 5.10a and a 5.9 slab. After that we bouldered a highball mantel problem which I almost fell off of, near the tippy top. It was a bit scary. Over the campfire that night I met Alois Smrz, whose route "Land of Little Rain" me and Stephen had our big adventure on last spring. On Sunday me and Spencer went out to Fraggle Rock, at Desert Queen Mine. I led a 5.8, then Spencer led a very scary 5.9 slab. I led a 5.10d hand crack called "Tiers for Fears". After that Spencer led a 5.10a slab. We also explored the goldminers cabin in the area. It rained Sunday night so we didn't get to climb on Monday. February 7-8, Joshua Tree A weekend at Joshua Tree with the Alpinistas. Tuck and Sabine met me at my house in Encinitas at 3 PM on Friday. MISTAKE. The drive to Jtree ended up taking about 4 hours (we took the backroads). On Saturday morning climbed a 10a and 10b right next to the tent. Then Steve, Tuck and I went and climbed Third Times a Charm (5.10b) on Moosedog Tower. I managed to onsight the pitch, which involved a balancy sequence protected by a bolt. Afterwards, we went over and climbed Silent Scream (5.10a), and attempted Silent But Deadly (5.11b), both sport routes. On Sunday we went to the Feudal Wall. We TR'd California Crack and Arizona Crack (both 11a), and I got shut down/spooked trying to lead Pet Or Meat (5.10d), a sport route. Someone finished it for me and I got it on TR. I also TR'd Monaco (5.11b) with 1 or 2 rests, which is an awesome route! We finished up with a TR of Right V Crack, a slippery 5.10a. February 14-16 -- Red Rocks Joanna and I went to Red Rocks over Valentine's Day weekend. On Saturday we did some cragging at Willow Spring. Saturday we hiked up to do Olive Oil, but it was quite crowded. We bailed and went bouldering at Kraft Boulders instead. On Sunday we went back up and did Olive Oil. March 7-8 -- Joshua Tree Dave accompanied Stephen and I for a weekend at jtree. On Saturday we drove out Geology Tour Road and climbed Thumbs Down Left (5.9), Star Wars (5.10b) and TR'd Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market, all quality climbs. We looked at Perpetual Motion, but decided to save if for when we were feeling stronger. On Sunday we hiked into the North Wonderland trying to find Super Dome, but got lost and ended up by the Grey Giant. We looked at Hyperion, which looks aboslutely amazing, but did not try it. Plan on 2hrs approach to get to this part of the Park. March 13-14 -- Joshua Tree Saturday: led the Flue (5.8), TR'd the 10b R, tried Father Figure (13a), backed off Route for a Route, Eye for an Eye (5.10b), followed X Rated Tits (5.9), Gunsmoke traverse, followed and flailed on Left Ski Track (5.11a) @#$%! Sunday: attempted a 20 pitch day but ended up defeated by the heat. Double Cross (5.7), 10b bolted arete, Dandelion (5.10a), Band Saw 5.10c - Steve took a whipper, Dogleg (5.8), Hobbit Roof (5.10d), Skinny Dip 5.7. March 20-21 -- Laguna Beach March 27-28 -- Red Rocks I drove out and met Spencer for a weekend of climbing at Red Rocks. We climbed both days in Black Velvet Canyon. On Saturday we started with Triassic Sands (5.10a). Spencer led and linked the first 2 pitches (barely). This is an awesome pitch with a short crux, and then a FUN hands crack for 100 feet to the belay. I led the 2nd 5.8 pitch and we rappelled back to the ground. Next I decided to try Mazaltan (5.10d), an managed to onsight it. In reality it is just a 15 foot boulder problem, followed by 100 feet of moderate, fun climbing. However the crux has a reputation for dicey gear, but I thought the RP was bomber. I rapped and cleaned it, then Spencer led it as well. We rounded out the day by doing Wholesome Fullback, a 2 pitch 5.10a. From the rappel anchors, we TR'd the last pitch of Our Father, a burly enduro 5.10+ layback corner. On Sunday we decided to do Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+, 7 pitches). I was pretty nervous, because the route has a reputation for being difficult, runnout and exposed. If you have been in Black Velvet Canyon, you've probably noticed the massive roof on the right side of the wall. Fiddler climbs up, and traverses along the very lip of this roof, then launches straight up the beautiful black varnished face above. In summary we managed to pull it off in good style. I led the 3rd pitch traverse which is not given a rating in the Swain guide, although the description says it is "scary". Despite my nervousness, this pitch ended up being no harder than 5.9/5.10-, had good gear and awesome exposure. Spencer led the 4th pitch (crux) which I found extremely difficult, sustained and somewhat runnout. An EXCELLENT lead by Spencer. 3 more non-trivial pitches followed, and the daylight was waning as we got to Turkeyland Ledge. To save time we simul-rapped the wall. If you've never done this, it is when each person rappels on one side of the rope. It is very efficient, but only recommended if the rap line is straight and you are rapping off bomber anchors. It probably took us 30 minutes to rap 1000 feet! I would have to say this is one of the most satisfying climbing days I've had in quite a while, and a proud tick. Days like this are why I climb. April 3 -La Joya (5.11b), El Gran Trono Blanco |