Candlewicking
It is believed that candlewicking embroidery was American in original, and certianly enjoyed it's greatest popularity during the Colonial period.  Used mainly for bedspreads, it was always worked with  natural cream-colored candlewick cotton on an unbleached background.

Later during it's development, the French knot and backstitch were incorporated into the pieces, but generally, just a simple running stitch was used, clipped between stitches to form tufts. White-on-white is still the most popular, though other colours have also been found. 

This was no doubt the inspiration for modern chenille.
It was certainly the inspiration for a line of glassware introduced by the Imperial Glass Company in August of 1936.  The story goes that then president, Earl Newton; while on a visit to New York; picked up a piece of French Cannonball glass, which was distinguised by a series of heavy glass 'balls' around it's base. Taking inspiration from Colonial 'candlewicking', he came up with the idea of using smaller balls to create a more delicate pattern and Candlewick became one of the most popular items in their line.
Getting Started: Background fabric for Candlewicking should be firm but loosely woven, like unbleached muslin, and should never be pre-shrunk, since washing helps to tighten the stitch on the fabric.  Candlewick cotton is a thick, loosely twisted multiply yarn and the needle to use should be  large-eyed darning needle or a proper candlewicking needle, with a thick shaft and large eye.  It may be curved or slightly widened at the point. Double-eyed needles are used for the extra-large, thick tufts.

Almost any kind of design is workable from flowers and scallops to geometric straight-lines.  Use candlewicking to outline the design, fill in areas, or cover the background solidly.

Mark the pattern and work on the right side. Thread a long length of candlewick cotton in the needle, pulling ends even so thread is double. To start, pick up a few threads of fabric on right side and draw candlewick through until a short end remains as a small tuft. Make even running stitches about 1/2" apart, picking up only a few threads with each stitch, and leaving cotton between stitches loose. End with cotton on right side of fabric, clipping off to make small tuft. When stitching is completed, clip cotton at center between each stitch. The cut strands of cotton fluff up, making tufts.

If stitches are taken close together, tufting will be in a continuous line  For spot tufts, space the stitches further apart and trim tufts to size. Now shrink fabric to hold tufts securely.  If a washing machine is used, wash in warm, soapy water for at least twenty minutes. If washing by hand, let soak for three or four hours. Shake out; do not squeeze or wring. Hang in the sun to dry and lightly brush tufts before they are completely dry to fluff them. Do not iron since the crinkly look is characteristic of the technique.
E-MAIL ME
NEXT:  Crewel Work
PREVIOUS:  Border Stitches
All About Embroidery
All About Needlework
Uniquely Canadian Home Page
Victorian Canada Home Page