Leash Manners
Every time you take your dog out for a walk, you're teaching him how to respond to you and the environment around you.  If you spend a few moments each day teaching an overanxious or rambunctuous dog how to behave you'll make future walks go smoothly and enjoyable.
Leash manners are tough to teach dogs who are confined inside or don't get enough exersize or companionship.  Walking your dog with slack in the lead, or 'loose leash walking' requires patience and consistency, but its worth it because a dog who pulls is no fun - and even can be painfull - to walk.  By teaching them to walk without pulling, we increase the chances of socializing with our dogs and a wonderful outing exersizing both you and your companion.
If you have ever wondered why dogs pull on their leashes, there is one key reason: they think they are being rewarded for pulling!  If you stop and think about it, when we take a  dog out for a walk, they're full of energy and eager to explore.  So eager that the first thing they do is strain forward, and we begin walking.  In the dog's mind, pulling on the leash gets me walked, so they keep pulling and sure enough we keep walking.  To teach polite walking, or 'loose leash walking' we must change their perception by providing negative consequenses for pulling and positive ones for not pulling.
Let's Begin!
Let's use a redlight greenlight method as an example.
Walk forward saying "(dog's name) let's go."
REDLIGHT (stop dead in your tracks) as soon as your dog starts pulling on the leash.  Take two steps backward (penalty yard or YELLOWLIGHT) and encourage your dog toward you with sweet talk, clapping your leg, whatever works for you.
The moment your dog, not YOU, makes the leash slack, GREENLIGHT or restart walking, and lots of  PRAISE.  Repeat as often as necessary.  Eventually your dog will realize that :
NO PULLING = GREENLIGHT = forward walking (rewarding)
PULLING = REDLIGHT= loss of progress (frustrating)
Timing means everything; you must
STOP DEAD the second the leash gets tight and step backwards. DO NOT allow him to pull you a few steps before you stop.  The second the leash grows loose, start walking, GREENLIGHT!  It may take 10 minutes for your dog to understand, or several sessions.  Distance shouldn't be your bottom goal.  Keep it short and positive, and above all, be sure to praise when that leash grows slack, and treat when he's near your side!

Turns = about face or Right.  These are great when your dog crisscrosses your path.  Turn right or right about-face the moment the lease goes tight.  If you change directions, your dog has to pay attention to see where you are going!
A few tips to try:
Use the half-hitch (with leash clipped on, cross it under the chest and then under the leash at the back) when first going out until your dog has gone potty, then undo the hitch and start training.  Sometimes its tough on your way outside when the dog has to 'go', but should be easier as you head back inside or continue on your walk. 
Consistency trains the dog!  If your dog is a hard puller, look into maybe purchasing a halti or sensi-harness, but remember that you still need the training and consistancy, not relying on the 'tool'!
The key to training both dogs and humans is
patience and repetition.
Remember to praise and treat for good behavior - a lot at first then slack off as the behavior is learned.
Your voice is your main training tool.  Praise in a higher tone, even using funny noises to get your dog's attention. 
Never use a dog's name in an angry tone.  Let your dog know when he's doing the right thing with enthusiastic praise and sweet talk.
Touch is rewarding...
Do not touch your dog when it's misbehaving.  Consistent consequences for pulling will soon change your dog's behavior.  Bottom line is that your dog must face the consequences for pulling: your dog either is stopped dead in her tracks or turned a different direction the moment she pulls.
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