Parts Required

1) DCC FK-35 Unit (dccontrol.com)

2) Late 80's/Early 90's Taurus 3.8 2-spd Electric Fan (Junkyard/eBay)

3) Various Handtools

4) Hayden/Imperial Radiator Pull-through ties

Installation:

Begin by unpacking the DCC box you receive.  You should have a bag with the temperature probe wire, and some various connectors, nuts, and star washers, a bundle of red and a bundle of black wire, the DCC unit itself, and the directions.

First, find a suitable mounting location under the hood for the DCC unit.  Some choose to mount it directly to the fan itself, but I chose a spot on the drivers side fenderwell as shown in the picture below. You will need to move the hood latch cable upward a little bit for space. Using some self-threading screws, install the DCC unit.

Next, using the included directions and wires, connect and route the wires.  You will need to cut the black and red wires in half.  You will be hooking wires up to the DCC unit as shown below.. just leave the remaining ends of the wiring hanging for now.  You won't wire it up til later.

The DCC unit installed and wired.

With this complete, you can begin the fan installation. Begin by unbolting the 2 bolts holding the radiator fan shroud to the radiator mount.  Next, using a sufficient sized wrench (1 7/16") and something to hold the pulley still (apex bits work GREAT for this,) remove the fan assembly.  What I did was wedge two apex bits in to the holes of the water pump pulley, and then use a prybar or a hydraulic jack handle to hold the pulley still, while turning the huge nut to the left (as looking at the front of the car.)

When the fan unthreads completely, you can pull the shroud and fan assembly upward and out of the engine compartment.  Now is a good time to inspect the radiator for damage, blockage, etc.  If you find any, now is the time to replace the radiator if necessary.  The picture below shows the removed fan and shroud assembly.  Good riddance to the extra 10-15 pounds.

Next, using the supplied temperature probe from the DCC unit, plug it in to the radiator by where the lower radiator hose comes out of the radiator.  Run this wire back around the bottom of the radiator, and connect it to the pins the instructions tell you to on the DCC unit (pins 1 and 2.)  The horrible picture below shows the bottom passenger side of the fan/radiator, with the temp probe circled in yellow.

Next, decide how you plan to mount the Taurus fan. I mounted mine upward (with the peep window facing up.)  I had to grind off a small bracket which the wiring harness plugged in to on the very middle of the bottom.  If you set the fan down on to the radiator, you'll see that there is a small tab that will fit perfectly in to the stock lower radiator support.

Set the fan down on to the lower radiator support, and press the fan up against the radiator, so it is flush. You will notice, that the fan fits PERFECTLY from left to right across the radiator.  You can wedge the tabs on the fan underneath the radiator support if you wish (which is what I did.) Using the Hayden/Imperial radiator ties, secure the fan to the radiator.  (Hint: It may be necessary to remove the front grille for easier access to the ties as you push them through.)  Be sure to use the foam pads between the radiator and the ties on the front side to prevent damage from vibration.  The mounted fan can be seen below.

Now, you're ready to connect the DCC unit wiring to the fan.  You should already have wires running from the DCC unit itself.  If not, scroll back up and follow the DCC wiring plan I wrote above.

Step 1) You need to figure out which is the high speed wire from the Taurus fan.  If you have both sides of the stock connector, it is the blue wire.  If you only have the female side (the connector attached to the fan itself,) it is the brown/yellow wire.  Connect it to the red output wire from the DCC unit. 

Step 2) Locate the black wire from the Taurus fan (negative) and connect it to one of the black wires from the GND terminal of the DCC unit.  Put some electrical tape or a connector over the remaining wire to the fan, it's the low-speed wire and won't be used. 

Step 3) Connect the red input wire on the DCC unit to your positive battery terminal, and then connect the remaining black wire to the negative terminal of your battery.

Step 4) Find a suitable wire that is 12v ignition on to connect the yellow wire of the DCC unit to.  On mine, on the drivers side, just above what appears to be the brake module, there is a black wiring harness that connects right above it.  There is a pink wire furthest toward the passenger side of the connector.  This is 12v ignition on.  Splice in to it (don't cut it, just peel some insulation back and solder it in.) This will tell the DCC unit to shut itself off when the ignition shuts off.  If you prefer to leave the fan running after you shut the vehicle off, just leave the yellow wire alone, but beware, this will cause your increased load on your battery, and if it's hot enough outside (fan needs to run for a long time still,) you may actually completely discharge the battery.

Step 5) Lastly, connect the blue wire to the A/C compressor harness blue wire.  It's the only wire that runs back toward the firewall from the a/c compressor.  Just use an inline-splice connector for this. 

That completes the installation.  I highly recommend you buy some wiring looms and cover all your wires to help protect against heat.  Heatshrink followed by wire looms would even be better.  Whichever method you prefer, you can make it look quite close to a stock setup, if you properly cover the wires, and find something to cover the DCC unit.

Test the fan by turning the vehicle on, and switching on the A/C.  The fan should run up to 50%.  Shut the vehicle off, and using the included jumpers, set the fan engagement temperature to whatever you feel is necessary.  This should be 5-7 degrees higher than your thermostat temperature. The stock thermostat opens at 195 degrees, so set the DCC unit to come on at 202.

Update 1/19/06:  If you require a manual switch to control the fan, Mr. Baskin at Delta Current Control provided me a wiring schematic.  You need a SPDT switch with 3 terminals, and 2 on positions.  You run the AC input of the DCC unit (the blue wire) to the middle prong (off position) of the switch, a 12v ignition on source to one side, and the AC compressor wire to the other side.  This will give you a switch wired to perform as follows:

One "on" side of switch (the side with the A/C compressor wire) can be considered "Normal mode," and will allow the DCC unit to run normally, including running the fan as advertised when the A/C is turned on.

The other "on" side of the switch (the side with the 12v ignition wire) can be considered "Fan on mode," and will run the fan up to 50% any time the switch is in this position, regardless of whether the A/C is on or not.  If you use the under drive jumper, this will run the fan up to 100%.

The last position, the middle "off" position of the switch, will disable the DCC unit from operating in A/C mode.. in other words, if you turn the A/C on in your vehicle with the switch in the off position, the fan will not run to 50%, but the DCC unit will still attempt to run the fan up to the proper speed in order to provide normal cooling.   If you wish to wire in a lamp to indicate when you're switched to the "fan on" position, simply wire a 12v indicator lamp to the middle prong of the switch.

With the switch properly wired, you may enjoy extra cooling if required by flipping the switch to the "fan on" position any time the ignition is on, leave it in the other "normal mode" position for normal DCC/fan operation.  Below shows the finished product.  The labels say "Fan on", "Off," and "Norm."

Take it for a drive, and enjoy the horse-power you just freed up, and brag to your friends that you can now idle all day long in traffic with the A/C blasting, and never see a loss of performance, or increased coolant temperatures.