Printableinstructions

Beginning:
To begin, you must purchase a needle and some yarn.
I recommend either I, H, or G size hooks to learn with. Smaller sizes are harder to manipulate.

Yarn is not difficult. Please do not start with Chenille or wool. The regular yarn you can find at Wal-mart and other stores in good enough. Cheap yarn is the best.

Also, purchase a light colored yarn to be able to see what you are doing.

Once again, smaller size yarn such as thread is difficult to manipulate

To test the strength of the yarn, take your thumb and index finger and rub a couple of strands between them. If it frays alot, don't buy it. Test a few types and you will understand what I am taking about.

Also you need a good pair of scissors. Not a pair that you would use on anything but your projects. Dull scissors are a crafter's nightmare.

Yarns:

To begin, you must purchase a needle and some yarn.
I recomend either I, H, or G size hooks to learn with. Smaller sizes are harder to manipulate.

Yarn is not difficult. Please do not start with Chenille or wool. The regular yarn you can find at Wal-mart and other stores in good enough.

Also, purchase a light colored yarn to be able to see what you are doing.

Once again, smaller size yarn such as thread is difficult to manipulate

To test the strength of the yarn, take your thumb and index finger and rub a couple of strands between them. If it frays alot, don't buy it. Test a few types and you will understand what I am talking about.

Also you need a good pair of scissors. Not a pair that you would use on anything but your projects. Dull scissors are a crafter's nightmare.

Lets talk about lot.

What is it? The lot number on a skein of yarn tells you which skeins have been dyed together. When buying nice yarn, make sure, I repeat, make sure that all your lot numbers match up. And if you don't? The colors won't match exactly. Sometimes the variation is very noticable.

Which brings me to another important tip. Buy at least one skein more than the directions call for. Sad to say, I learned this the hard way. I have been working on a ripple bedspread. I thought, I'll buy the yarn as I need it. BIG mistake. Two months into the project, the company quit making it. I didn't know until 5 months later when more couldn't be ordered for me. Always, I mean, always buy the yarn you need.

Another reason is that you may run out of the lot and more can't be ordered. Same situation. No more yarn. (By the way, the afghan isn't finished but when I bought more yarn, it's very close to the same color. I got very very lucky,

One more thing I need to mention about yarns. If you get a bad spot in the yarn. Cut it out and treat the ends as if you were changing yarn. Do the same if the yarn has a knot in it. Sometimes, instead of throwing out the yarn if it breaks, the company will knot it and not leave very long ends. See loose ends for the importance of this.

Just go ahead, grin and bear it and cut out the bad part. It will be worth it in the long run. (I once got a skein of baby yarn that had thin spots an thick spots. I should have taken it back because it bad parts all through it. Unforunately, I worked with the bad spots, and my blanket came out all lumpy. Weird.)

Needles:

Needles can be confusing.
   Let me define some terms.

   Thread needles: generally are the small metal needles. They are so cute.   Their range can be from 12 to 0. 0 is the largest. 12 is the smallest I have seen. One makes doilies and angels, snowflakes, tablecloths, bedspreads with thread yarn.

   Afghan needles: These are the larger needles. Usually catregorized from   I to Q. I am sure sizes larger than Q are made but I have never seen them. The larger needles make larger stitches and the project does not take as long.

   Currently, I am working on a scarf for my father. I recently made my first scarf for my husband it took about 8 hours and I used a I needle. The one for my father is almost finished at 3 hours because I am using an L needle. Big difference.

   The rest of the needles from D to I are the ones you will be using the most. I prefer, I, H, and G needles for most of my work.

Holding the Needle:

   To begin you will need a size I of H hook.
   Find a pretty light colored yarn or manly light colored yarn if the shoe fits.

   Hold the needle as you would a pencil.

   Apply pressure to the flat section of the needle
   with your thumb.
Put your index finger slightly behind the flat section.
This will stablize your needle for you.

   Your middle finger will have another job to do once you start to crotchet.

   The hook part needs to be pointing down.
   Hold this in your hand for a few minutes until it becomes more comfortable

How to hold yarn:

Sorry, but this is to each his (hers) own.

You do need to make sure the yarn comes up over your index finger.

I start the yarn over my pinky, then under my middle finger, then over my index finger.

It has to do with tension. Play around with it until you find something you can be comfortable with.

Sorry, again. There is no right or wrong way of holding your yarn.

Slip Knots:

Slip knots can be tricky.

   Begin by holding the yarn between two fingers.

   Allow the tension to be slack.

   There needs to be some play in the yarn.

   Take your other hand and with two fingers, make a loop of the yarn around your fingers.

   Then pull one side of the yarn through the loop. You should have made another loop.

   Take the second loop and hold it while pulling the orginal loop semi-tight.

   If you can hold one end and pull and the loop grows smaller then you have a slipknot.

   Place your needle through the remaining loop. It is your starting point.

Chain Stitch:

This is the real beginning of crocheting.
Make a slipknot, but do not pull it tight.

Take your needle, a stick it through your loop.

Hold the needle with the hook pointing down.

Next, you will yo. Yo means yarn over.

Take the needle and swing it you will have yarn (one strand) on the needle.

Next pull the hook through your loop.

Congratulations!!
You have made your first chain stitch.

You still should have one loop on your needle. Yarn over again and repeat the process.

Fairly loose stitches are needed here. Let me explain what happens. If your lovely stiches are too tight. You won't be able to stick your needle through them later. Also, if they are too tight, the chain won't stretch. Yes, it needs to.
The stitches don't have to be floppy, just make sure you can stitck your needle through them later with ease.

Practice this until your stitches are even.

The chain stitch is the basic and the most important stitch. It is the foundation of your piece of art work and also for the other stitches. You cannot learn the others until you have mastered this one. Look at how it works and study what you are doing. I promise it will help in the future.

Single Crochet:

To begin, you will have needed to have a nice line of chain stitch. So to begin, cut the end of your chain stitch and start this from scratch. (assuming you were practicing)

Make a slip knot.

Chain 21.

Now is the time to turn.

For the single stitch, two chain stitches count as one.

Skip the first two chains.

Stick your needle through the third chain stitch.

YO (yarn over) and pull the loop through the chain.
You will have 2 loops on your needle now.

YO again and pull the yo yarn through both loops.
You should have 1 loop on your needle.

Stick your needle through the next chain stitch.

YO and pull through.

YO and pull through both loops.
You should have 1 loop on your needle

Do you see what you are doing?

The final loop on your needle should be the loop you
Yarn Overed the last time.
If this is not so, keep trying.

Single stitch to the end of the chain.

Now for turning.

Remember I said that a single stitch equals two chain stitches?
So, chain two. This counts as the first stitch of the next row.

Turn your project over so you can work down the other side.
SKIP the first single stitch.

In the second stitch, stick your needle through the top two loops.

The loop facing you is the called the front loop.
The loop behind the front loop is the ???
back loop.
Unless your pattern specifies which loop, use both.
And continue making the single stitch.

Your work will eventually be even.
That is what you are working for,
evenness.

Half Double Crochet Stitch:

If you have mastered the single stitch, the rest will be easy.

Chain some stitches.

Two chain stitches count as one half crochet, so this will your first stitch.

Skip the first two chains.

YO (yarn over the needle). You should have two loops on your needle.

Stick the needle into the loop of the third chain.

YO again. You should have three loops and at least one loop from the chain stitch.

Pull the last YO loop through the chain stitch and through both of the other two loops.

See, that wasn't so hard. Keep doing this until you reach the end of your chain.

To turn, chain two. This counts as the first stitch on your next row. Turn your project over and keep on going.

Double Crochet:

Chain 3, this is considered your first double.

Skip the tfirst hree chain stitches, YO (yarn over), you should have two loops on your needle.

Stick the needle through the next (fourth) chain stitch.

Now YO. You should have 3 loops and the chainstitch on your needle.

Draw the loop you just made through the chain stitch and the next loop. You should have two loops on the needle now.

YO and draw through the last two loops.

Pat yourself on the back.

Now YO (2 loops should remain on the needle).

On the next chain stitch, stick the needle through and continue the process until you reach the end of the row.

Triple Crochet:

Ok. So you have done all the other stitches.
And you think you are ready for this.
YES, you are.

Very easy.

At the beginning of the double crochet stitch, you YO twice, right?

The triple needs YOing three times at the beginning of the stitch.
So, YO three times before you stick your needle through.
Now stick your hook in and YO. Pull through and draw through 2
loops.

Yo again and pull through 2 loops.

ONE MORE TIME! YO and pull through the last 2 loops.
You should have only one loop left on your needle (hook).

You do it three times. Hence, the name, triple.

Congratulations!!!!
You have mastered all the basic and essential stitches.
All patterns use these stitches in some form or fashion.

Slip Stitches:

You need to be comfortable with a least the single crochet stitch before you master this one.

Slip stitches are used to connect. They don't show up in your piece. They are almost invisble.

Let's pratice by making a circle.

Make a slipknot.

Now chain stitch, oh, I don't know, 6 times.

Now to make a slip stitch, you stick your needle through chain number one.

Ok, now yarn over and pull it through the chain stitch AND the loop on your needle.

You should have one loop on your needle.

Slip stitch is just like the single crochet, expect after you yarn over (YO) and pull through, you don't stop and yo again. You just keep on pulling through the loop on the needle.

This is actually a very fundimental stitch.

Shells:

Usually the pattern will explain how to make the shell like they do with popcorn stitches.
So, we'll deal with the mechanics of the shell. (such a pretty pattern, and it's used in alot of baby blankets and things.)

Let's chain 25. Turn and do a row of single stitches. That's for a base. It makes it easier to handle.

Next, skip the first 2 stitches and double stitch in the third stitch.

In the same stitch as the double, make another double.

In that same stitch, do a triple.

In that same stitch, make a double.

In that same stitch, make one last double.

Slip stitch in the third stitch from your shell base.
In the patterns, it will say, skip 2 stitches, slip stitch.

Continue to the end. You have made a row of shells.
If you would like to do another row, follow these directions.

chain 3

double in the slip stitch of the previous row

double crochet in the top of the shell (top of the shell in this case would be the triple)

work the rest of the shell.

double crochet twice in the slip stitch between the two shells.

Now, repeat.

This pattern can be adjusted many, many different ways.

Turning Chain or Starting a new row:

This, for most people, is the most difficult thing to do.
So. I will do my best to explain it, so you can make things.

Let's start from the beginning.

Chain (Ch) 15.

Let's do a row of single crochet.

First, skip the chain closest to your needle.
This is not the one on your needle, but the next one.
That skipped chain takes the place of your first single stitch.

Now, single crochet in the next chain and go to the end of your row. ( It's probably curling on you. That's normal!)

Now, for the turn.
Chain one.
Flip your row over so you can crochet down to the other end of the row.

Pay attention, the hard part is coming.
Skip the first single crochet of your row.
(Why, you ask? The chain 1 you did is considered a single crochet. So, you don't use the first one in the row. )

Now single stitch in the second single crochet from your needle.

OH! OH! OH! You just turned! :)
YEAH!!!! (clap, clap, clap, clap)

Changing Yarns:

This is not a difficult task.
Many magazines and books tell you do it one way.
I am going to give you an easier way to change colors.

First, finish the last stitch of your first color (FC).
Make your loop on the needle a little larger, so you can work with it.

Next, take your new yarn or new color (SC) and thread it through the loop. 

Now, like you are starting to tie your shoelaces, knot the SC to the loop of the FC.

Next, you put your needle back into the loop.
YO and draw through with the SC. (You should have a loop of the SC on your needle now.)

Here's the really tricky part. Take the end of the FC Yarn and pull tight. (Try not to break the yarn.)

Ok, Now take the end of the FC and SC and knot them together.

You should still have the new color on your needle and can begin working again.

I find this method hides the changing of colors the best. You might discover a better way. Let me know!!

Spaces:

What are spaces?

Spaces in crochet are a chain stitch instead of the other stitches. This is much harder to explain then anything else so far. But I will try.

Let's do it and I can guide you along.

Chain 8

Turn and dc 5 times in the chain stitches.

Turn and dc 2 times, then chain 1,
(here's the hard part)

Look at your previous row. Where you were going to dc again, skip that one.

Now dc in the next stitch from the one you skipped. DC again in the next stitch.

You have just created a space.

Listen, we are going to crochet in that space you made. Ready?

Turn, dc in next 2 stitches.

DC in the space.
Instead of sticking the needle through the loops, just poke it in the space and dc like normal.

DC in the next 2 stitches.

That, my friend is how you work in spaces.

Front and Back Loops:

We have discussed previously front and back loops. But this is a confusing topic, so it can't hurt to look at it again.

After you have made a few rows, look at your practice piece.

On top, you will see what looks like.
These are your loops..
(Mine have a tendency to not be directly on top of my swatch but laying towards me)

The loop closest to you is the front loop.

The loop farthest from you is the back loop.

What do these loops do?
They make ridges in your piece. Scary.
If you do not want ridges,
then use both loops to crochet in.

Left Handed Crocheting:

Actually, there is not much to tell.
Everyone seems to make a big deal about it, but I have never had a problem. Well, ok, maybe one or two.

Learning from a right-handed person is easier. Just copy what they are doing. Mirror them and their movements.

The patterns can be confusing. I have been working on a cardigan. (for folks who don't know, that is a button up sweater) When I made the right sleeve, it turned out to really be the left. So, when I made the left sleeve it was the what?

That's right, the right sleeve. Just follow the pattern in your own hand. It'll be fine.

I did have a problem learning the front and back loop. My stitches did not look the same as the book's stitches. However, the front loop is facing you and the back loop is on the back part of the loops..

Front and Back Posts:

Once you understand the posts, you'll never have to look at this page again. Doesn't that sound great? Ok. So. Here goes.

Do a row of triple crochet. (No, it doesn't matter how many in a row).
Turn and do half a row of triple crochet. (This is so we can see what we are doing.)

Look at the next loops you are about to stick your needle through.Part of that stitch is the long part. The next section is attached to the row before it. Can you see the three parts?

The second part, under the loops, is the post.
See the space between the posts? You are going to use that space.

Yo twice. Put your needle in the space to the right of the post from the backside. (Your needle should be sorta' pointing towards you now.) The needle goes around the post and comes out through the left side (space) .(The needle should be pointing away from you now.)

(I am so excited!! You're working with posts. I am so proud of you for getting this far.)

Yo again, and draw through two loops. Left the needle come off the post as you are doing this.

Finish off the stitch,

Let me recap a little. The needle goes from the backside into the space of the right, around the FRONT, and through the space to the left of the post. then do like you would if it was a loop and finsh of the stitch.

If you are left handed, switch the word : right for left, and left for right.

The back post is done in a similar fashion. But, it goes in through the front, around the BACK of the post, and back out the side with the needle facing you.

Loose Ends:

After leaving loose ends, I find a yarn needle works best to weave in. That would be for most projects. Don't worry about where it goes, just tuck them in and around.

For dolie type work, a yarn needle is too big and a regular needle will hurt your hard work. I'm afraid you will have to use the crochet needle.

Rounds and Marking Them:

It is important. When the directions say mark the right side or the round, please do.

When working with circles, sometimes seeing where you started a round is impossible. Then you will have to be like me and count your stitches back. But, if I haven't marked the round, how do I know where I started?

That's easy. Same reason for marking the right or wrong side. Eventually, you will put your project down. If you have the side marked, you will know how to proceed.

So, how does one mark. Take a small piece of yarn or thread, and tie it onto your yarn in use. Be creative, whatever is necessary. Paperclips do work, but are hard to deal with. I am cheap, so paperclips or yarn work fine for me.

I found these brass quilting safety pins. They are large, cheap and work very well. They come highly recommended from me.

There are round markers made. I love those. You can find them in knit shops. I have lost all of mine and cannot find more. Just be creative.

Granny Squares:

Granny squares are widely used in crochet. We will go through step by step. This will give you pratice and confidence to tackle more complicated patterns.

This pattern contains the following: chain stitch, double crochet, use of circles, slipstitch, repeats, and spaces.

Row 1:
Chain 5 (chain stitch 5 times)

Slip stitch in first chain (this makes a circle.)

Row 2:
Chain 3 (this will be considered a double crochet)

DC twice in circle. (think of the circle as a space)

*(Chain 2

DC three times in circle)*

Repeat twice * * (do what is between the asteriks two more times. Here is what you will do. Chain 2. DC 3 times in circle. Chain 2 again and DC 3 more times.)

Chain 2

Slip stitch to the top of the chain 3 (remember the chain 3 at the begining of the row? The third chain is where you need to slip stitch)

I promise they will all fit. It looks and feels cramped now, but will look good later!!

Row 3:
Chain 4 (the first three chains are considered a double crochet, the fourth chain will be a space.)

*Skip the next 3 dc, work 3 dc in next space, chain 2, work 3 dc in same space as the previous 3 dc.
(to skip 3 dc, look at your previous row and count 3 dc that you would have normally stitched in, now skip those. The next thing on your previous row should be the chain 2 you did. That is your space. DC three times in that space, then chain 2, and DC three times in that same space. We are making a corner.)

Chain 1*

Repeat twice

Skip the next 3 dc, work 3 dc in next space, chain 2, work 2 dc in same space.

Slip stitch to the chain 4. (the chain is counting as a double crochet to the set of two dc making it 3 dc)

Row 4:
Chain 3, work 2 dc in space. (chain 3 counts as one dc. In that space you will have "3" dc)

*Chain 1, work 3 dc in chain 2 space. Ch 2, DC 3 times in same ch2 space.

Chain 1, work 3DC in next 1ch space.*

Repeat * * twice.

Ch 1, Work 3 DC in next 2 ch space, ch2, work 3 DC in same 2 ch sp.

Ch 1 and slipstich to the top of the chain 3.

Can you see the square now? Can you see how the pattern works?

Row 5:

Ch 4, work 3 DC in next ch sp, *ch1, work 3 dc in next ch2 sp, ch 2 , work 3 dc in same ch2 sp, ch 1 work 3 dc in
next ch 1 sp, ch 1 work 3 dc in next ch sp*, repeat * * twice, ch 1, work (3dc ch 2 3dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, work 2 dc in next ch sp, slipstitch to ch4.

I am trying to prepare you for reading the patterns. I use different words and directions that all mean the same thing so you can get use to the terminology.

Row 6:

Ch3, dc twice in ch sp, *ch 1, 3dc in next ch sp*, **ch 1, work 3 dc in next ch sp, ch 2, work 3 dc in same sp**,
(Repeat * * 3 times, Repeat ** **), Repeat pattern between ( ) three times. Ch1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1 and slipstitch to top of ch3.

Was that hard? Did you see how it repeated to make the pattern? Do I need to go into more detail? E-mail and let me know.

Cut and tie off yarn and weave in.

Great!!! You just made a granny square.
All other "fancier" squares are founded on this basic one. It's also a great way to use up extra yarn and make a nice afghan.

Increasing and Decreasing:

Let me explain why you would use increasing and decreasing.

1. To increase the size of your row. Increasing will you give you a slant or triangle shape.
     To decrease the size of your row.
      This is what gives sleeves and shawls their shape.

2. To produce a ripple effect. (Ripple Afghans)

3. To fix a mistake of having too many stitches or too less in a row.

The instructions will tell you where to increase or decrease.
I will share some of the most used places.

First, most inc. and dec. will happen at the end of the row.
To increase (inc), you will stitch an extra stitch in the final loops of your row.

To decrease, you will skip a stitch.
Maybe you won't double crochet in the last stitch.

The other place to inc. or dec. is in the middle of the row. Or somewhere else in the row.
Here is where you can "fix" a previous mistake without undoing the whole row. (very valuable)

Let's Pratice. I will write the directions as if I am talking you through the pattern. Directly under them, I will have what a normal pattern will look like. That way you can get used to reading patterns and follow what I think when crocheting.

Begin by chaining 32.
Ch 32.

Skip the first four chains that are closest to your hook. Those four chains are your first triple crochet. Triple crochet in chain stitch number 5.
Tr in 5th ch from hook.

Triple crochet in the each of the next 4 chain stitches.
Tr in each of the next 4ch.

Now, triple crochet in the next chain stitch three times.
You should have 3 triples in one chain stitch. You have just increased.
Work 3 tr in next ch.

Ok. Now triple crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches.
Tr in each of the next 6 ch.

We begin decreasing. Skip the next two chains and triple crochet in the 3rd one. Triple crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches.
Skip 2 ch. Tr in each of the next 6 ch.

For the next increase triple crochet in the same stitch 3 times. Then triple crochet 6 more times in each of the next 6 chain stitches.
Tr 3 times in the next ch. Tr in the next 6 ch.

Chain 4 times. This counts as your first triple. So, if you need 6 triples in the next step, The chain 4 is #1 and then you will skip the 1st triple stitch and crochet 5 triples in the next 5 triple crochets. Confusing. Nah.
Sometimes, the instructions won't say to chain 4 and skip the first stitch. It is assumed you will know what to do. So....
Tr in the next 6 st.

This produces a ripple pattern. I started you out with the triple so you can finish a scarf if you would like.
Increasing and Decreasing

Ripple:

Begin by chaining 32.
Ch 32.

Skip the first four chains that are closest to your hook.
Those four chains are your first triple crochet.
Triple crochet in chain stitch number 5.
Tr in 5th ch from hook.

Triple crochet in the each of the next 4 chain stitches.
Tr in each of the next 4ch.

Now, triple crochet in the next chain stitch three times.
You should have 3 triples in one chain stitch. You have just increased.
Work 3 tr in next ch.

Ok. Now triple crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches.
Tr in each of the next 6 ch.

We begin decreasing. Skip the next two chains and triple crochet in the 3rd one. Triple crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches.
Skip 2 ch. Tr in each of the next 6 ch.

For the next increase triple crochet in the same stitch 3 times. Then triple crochet 6 more times in each of the next 6 chain stitches.
Tr 3 times in the next ch. Tr in the next 6 ch.

Chain 4 times. This counts as your first triple. So, if you need 6 triples in the next step, The chain 4 is #1 and then you will skip the 1st triple stitch and crochet 5 triples in the next 5 triple crochets. Confusing. Nah.
Sometimes, the instructions won't say to chain 4 and skip the first stitch. It is assumed you will know what to do. So....
Tr in the next 6 st.

This produces a ripple pattern. I started you out with the triple so you can finish a scarf if you would like.

Starching:

Starching does not have to be difficult.
Simply follow the instructions on the bottle of fabric stiffener and you should be ok.

However, I have discovered a few things I would like to share with you so you won't make the same mistakes.

Fabric stiffner out of a bottle needs to be watered down.
The less water, the stiffer the piece of crochet will be. If you add more water, it won't be as rigid. (we're talking about crocheting here ladies)

I thought I was going to be smart. I wanted a real stiff piece. So, I stiffened it in straight stiffener.

It ended up gloppy and it was hard to press the excess out.
Moral of this story, pratice stiffening first, if you can.
If you practice, then you will know exactly how much water to add. (practice makes perfect.)

ONE MORE thing.
When I got married, I crocheted my headpiece.
I know, how cute.

After starching it, I tried to clean the gunk off the pretty white beads. (sigh) The varnish stuff came off the beads with the stiffener. I ended up with ugly beads. So, I made the headpiece over again. This time, before the stiffener stiffened, I wiped the beads down.

Another moral, to save you from a headache, wipe off your embellishments before the stiffener dries. If you can wait to put on the embellishments, I would, Wiping off each little bead took me a looonnnggg time.

Instructions and what do they mean?

Abbreviations:

slip st, sl, sl st : slip stitch

ch : chain stitch

sc : single stitch

dc : double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

tr : treble crochet

RS : right side

WS : wrong side

inc : increasing

dec : decreasing

rnd(s) : rounds

t ch : turning stitch

yo : yarn over

tog : together

MC : main color

SC : second color

sp : space

cl : cluster

FP : front post

BP : back post

dtr : double treble crochet

tr tr: triple treble crochet

* *, () : means to repeat in between
            symbols

XBP : crossed back post

XFP : crossed front post

Washing:

This is a delicate subject. I would hate for you to yell at me years later because your favorite sweater is destroyed from washing. I will share the wonderful Eastern Kentuckian Secret (my hubbie is from thar).
They do know how to keep things looking beautiful for a long long time. (think of the quilts in museums)

So, here's what to do. Take your piece, put it in the bathtub or sink (which ever it needs to fit). Pour just enough laundry detergent to create a few bubbles. Not much, juuuust a liiiiiittttle.
Now, let it soak for a few hours. Do not agitate it. Just let it soak (nod nod).
Rinse it out well. (shouldn't be hard, you didn't use alot of detergent right? Right.)
Hang to dry. Carefully, when the fibers or fabric are wet, that's when they are the most likely to strain, break or tear.

Now, for another method. If you are not worried about the piece in two or ten years. Wash as the instructions on your skein said. I have been washing my afghan for once a year for 5 years. Poor thing, now its starting to fray. I have to start the above method.

Hey, when it all comes down to it, It's your painstakingly, lovingly, hard worked, bleed over, sweated over, intelligently and difficultly made project. Do what you want.

Major side note. If you wash something that has been stiffened, stiffener may come out.

V-Stitch:

You need to be familar with these stitches before doing this pattern. Chain Stitch, Double Crochet, Slip Stitch, and Spaces.

Ok, Are you ready? I am. Uhmmm. I was thinking, why not make something as you are learning? So, we'll go through this pattern and when we are finished, you'll have a new dishcolth. (smile)

Row 1:
First of all, chain 17.

Row 2:
Now, double crochet in the 5th chain from your hook.(You will have skipped the 1st 4 chains form your hook. the 1st 3 chains count (=) a Double Crochet (dc). the 4th chain is a skipped chain.)

Chain 1 (makes a space)

In the same chain that you just double crocheted in, double crochet (dc) again.
     Lookey there! it's a "V!"

Skip 1 chain stitch (ch) and double crochet (dc) in the next chain (ch).

Ch 1 (another space!)

Double crochet (dc) in the same ch as the last dc. (another "v!')

*skip the next chain stitch (ch) and dc in the next one. Ch 1 and dc in the same ch as before.*
(wow! another "v")

Repeat the instructions between the * * 3 times (work * * 3 x's)

Now, you should have one chain left on your foundation chain. Dc in that. If you don't, just dc at the end of the row somewhere.

Row 3:

Chain 3 (we're going to use spaces next.)

Remember the ch 1's I said make a space? Stick your needle through that space.

(dc, ch 1, dc) in the same space.

In the next space (under the next ch1) work your v-stitch (dc, ch1, dc).

Work your v-stitch in the spaces all the way to the end.

Dc in the top of the ch 3 from the previous row.

Row 4- 12:

Repeat row 3.

Let me give you what the instructions would normally look like for these rows.

Ch 3, *in next ch space work (dc,ch1, dc) *, repeat * * 5 x's. Dc in top of ch 3.

Now you have the v-stitch down pat. Let's do a little finishing.

Chain 2 and single crochet (sc) around the edge. When you get to a corner, sc 3 times in the same spot. This makes your corners nice, pointy and pretty. If you forget and don't, don't worry, it's not that big of a deal.

When you get back to your ch 2 that started the edging, slip stitch (sl st) to the top of the chain (2nd chain) and tie off.

I hope it is a beautiful dishcloth.

More info on the v-stitch. You can use sc, tr, etc... instead of dc. You can you the chain 1's themselves instead of the spaces. The pattern we just did is my personal favorite.

I am very proud of you. You have worked hard to get this far.
I get so proud and tell everyone I meet about the emails you send. How you are progressing, how you are learning, and how much I love to hear from you.

If you are a crocheter come back to the art, I welcome you and all the beginners welcome you too.

How to manage the end of the row:

You most definitely need to follow your directions on your pattern.

But, there is a small trick to getting your edges right.
Ready for the big secret?

Make sure you do your last stitch in the turning chain or stitch of the last row. Many people forget that very last stitch.
You will know if you are missing it. The number of stitches will decrease each row. Or, if you are adding to many to the end, you'll have extra stitches.

Just keep an eye out, and make sure you get your last stitch.

Right Side or Wrong Side:

The easiest way is when you first start.
Usually, the directions will tell you to mark your right or wrong side.

After you have made your first row, look at it.
the side facing you is the right side.

Take a piece of yarn, tie a bow around a stitch post or on the yarn that is ready to be chained for the next row.

Make sure your bow is on the right (or wrong if you need it) side.

Now it is marked. It is important to mark, because sometimes you just can't see which is which.

With time, you will be able to tell. The pretty side will be the right side.

Popcorn:

No, not the food. These stitch combinations end up puffy and pretty.

Most magazines or patterns will explain how to make popcorn stitches. However, for learning purposes and buidling your confidence in reading those confusing patterns, I will explain the basics of the popcorn stitch. Please remember, it varies according to instruction.

We will use the double crochet so you can see it better.
Row 1:
We'll begin by making a foundation chain.
Chain 10.

Row 2:
Skip the first three (3) chain stitches (ch) and double crochet in the fourth chain (4th ch).

Double crochet in the next chain. (DC in next ch)

Row 3: (here's where it gets complicated. I have faith in you.)
Begin by making one double in the next chain, but don't do the last draw through. Keep the last 2 loops on your needle. (This means it's half closed.) Yo and draw through only one loop this time. So, there should be two loops left on your needle.

Make a double in the SAME chain stitch as the first double. Finish this one like normal. Ignore that loop left over from the first double crochet. You don't need it yet.

Repeat the above paragraph three more times. (You should have a total of 5 dc.)

Now, YO and draw through both of the loops. (finish together)

Make sure it is tight. They have a tendency to wiggle free.
(If it's puffy, you did it right!!:)

Alright, double crochet (dc) in the next 3 ch. And you are ready for row 4.

Row 4:
Chain 3 (the ch 3 equals a dc)
DC across the row in each stitch. (When you reach your popcorn stitch, do a dc in the part where you finished together.)(You should have 7 dc is you did it correctly. Rember the ch3 counts as 1 dc.)

Row 5 and 6
do rows 3 and 4 again for a little more pratice.

Just a few tips.
When you first make the loop you will ignore, make sure it is tight. They also have a mind of their own and want to come loose. It's not a big deal if they do though.

Please remember. This is the way I do it. There are several different ways of making a popcorn. Each one of them are correct. If a pattern tells you to do it a different way. It is up to you.

Puff Stitch:

Most magazines or patterns will explain how to make popcorn stitches. However, for learning purposes and buidling your confidence in reading those confusing patterns, I will explain the basics of the popcorn stitch. Please remember, it varies according to instruction.

We will use the double crochet so you can see it better.

Begin by making one double, but don't do the last draw through. Keep the last 2 loops on your needle.

Make a double in the SAME chain stitch as the first double and remember, don't knock off the last 2 loops.

You should have 4 loops on your needle now.

Repeat the same thing, double in the same stitch and keep the last 2 loops.

You should have 6 loops on your needle.

Now, YO and draw through all the loops.

Make sure it is tight. They have a tendency to wiggle free.
If it's puffy, you did it right!!:)

Cluster:

Let's start with a 3 rows of 9 single crochets across.

The cluster is similar to the popcorn stitch.

Triple crochet once in next two sc.

YO three times. Stick your needle in the loops and YO and draw through.two loopa.

Yo and draw through two loops again. You should have two loops left on your needle. This is called HALF FINISH.

Now YO three more times and half finish a triple crochet in the next single crochet.

Half finish two more times. You will have a bunch of loops on your needle when you are done.

Now to make it a cluster. YO and draw through allllll the loops at the same time.

There you go. I am not accepeting emails write now. I am in France. So if the instructions aren't quite right, I am sorry. I thought you might like them before I leave. When I come back, I will check them over for accuracy.

However right now, you are smart enough to figure it out. This is the basics of a cluster. Adapt it to your needs. I do suggest looking at the shell and popcorn stitch to make sure you aren't doing that stitch by mistake. Good luck and enjoy!!!!