The Home of
THE SPOKANE BOXER CLUB, INC.
2330 SOUTH DISHMAN- MICA ROAD
SPOKANE, WA. 99206

The chiseled head imparts to the Boxer a unique individual stamp. It must be in correct proportion to the body. The broad, blunt muzzle is the distinctive feature, and great value is placed upon its being of proper form and balance with the skull.

In judging the Boxer, first consideration is given to general appearance to which attractive color and arresting style contribute. Next is overall balance with special attention devoted to the head, after which the individual body components are examined for their correct construction, and efficiency of gait is evaluated.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Size: Adult males 22 1/2 to 25 inches, females 21 to 23 1/2 inches at the withers. Preferably, males should not be under the minimum nor females over the maximum; however, proper balance and quality in the individual should be of primary importance since there is no size disqualification.

Proportion: The body in profile is of square proportion in that a horizontal line from the front of the forechest to the rear projection of the upper thigh should equal the length of a vertical line dropped from the top of the withers to the ground.

Substance: Sturdy with balanced musculature. Males larger boned than their female counterparts.

The beauty of the head depends upon harmonious proportion of muzzle to skull. The blunt muzzle is 1/3rd the length of the head from the occiput to the tip of the nose, and 2/3rds the width of the skull. The head should be clean, not showing deep wrinkles (wet). Wrinkles typically appear upon the forehead when ears are erect, and folds are always present from the lower edge of the stop running downward on both sides of the muzzle.

Expression
Intelligent and alert.

Eyes
Dark brown in color, not too small, too protruding or too deep-set. Their mood-mirroring character combined with the wrinkling of the forehead, gives the Boxer head its unique quality of expressiveness.

Ears
Set at the highest points of the sides of the skill are cropped, cut rather long and tapering, raised when alert.

Skull
The top of the skull is slightly arched, not rounded, flat nor noticeably broad, with the occiput not overly pronounced. The forehead shows a slight indentation between the eyes and forms a distinct stop with the topline of the muzzle. The cheeks should be relatively flat and not bulge (cheekiness), maintaining the clean lines of the skull and should taper into the muzzle in a slight, graceful curve.

Muzzle
The muzzle, proportionately developed in length, width and depth, has a shape influenced first through the formation of both jawbones, second through the placement of the teeth, and third through the texture of the lips. The top of the muzzle should not slant down (downfaced), nor should it be concave (dishfaced); however, the tip of the nose should lie slightly higher than the root of the muzzle.

Nose
The nose should be broad and black.

Jaw
The upper jaw is broad where attached to the skull and maintains this breadth, except for a very light tapering to the front. The lips, which complete the formation of the muzzle, should meet evenly in front. The upper lip is thick and padded, filling out the frontal space created by the projection of the lower jaw, and laterally is supported by the canines of the lower jaw. Therefore, these canines must stand far apart and be of good length so that the front surface of the muzzle is broad and squarish and, when viewed from the side, shows moderate layback. The chin should be perceptible from the side as well as from the front.

Bite
The Boxer bite is undershot, the lower jaw protrudes beyond the upper and curves slightly upward. The incisor teeth of the lower jaw are in a straight line, with the canines preferably up front in the same line to give the jaw the greatest possible width. The upper line of incisors is slightly convex with the corner upper incisors fitting snugly back of the lower canine teeth on each side.

Faults
Skull too broad. Cheekiness. Wrinkling too deep (wet) or lacking (dry). Excessive flews. Muzzle too light for skull. Too pointed a bite (snipy), too undershot, teeth or tongue showing when mouth closed. Eyes noticeably lighter than ground color of coat.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck: Round, of ample length, muscular and clean without excessive hanging skin (dewlap). The neck has a distinctly marked nape with an elegant arch blending smoothly into the withers.

Topline: Smooth, firm, and slightly sloping.

Body: The chest is of fair width, and the forechest well defined and visible from the side. The brisket is deep, reaching down to the elbows; the depth of the body at the lowest point of the brisket equals half the height of the dog at the withers. The ribs, extending far to the rear, are well arched but not barrel shaped.

Back: The back is short, straight and muscular and firmly connects the withers to the hindquarters.

The loins are short and muscular. The lower stomach line is slightly tucked up, blending into a graceful curve to the rear. The croup is slightly sloped, flat and broad. Tail is set high, docked and carried upward. Pelvis long and in females especially broad.

Faults
Short heavy neck. Chest too broad, too narrow or hanging between shoulders. Lack of forechest. Hanging stomach. Slab-sided rib cage. Long or narrow loin, weak union with croup. Falling off of croup. Higher in rear than in front.

Front and rear quarters
Forequarters: The shoulders are long and sloping, close-lying, and not excessively covered with muscle (loaded). The upper arm is long, approaching a right angle to the shoulder blade. The elbows should not press too closely to the chest wall nor stand off visibly from it.

The forelegs are long, straight and firmly muscled and when viewed from the front, stand parallel to each other. The pastern is strong and distinct, slightly slanting, but standing almost perpendicular to the ground. The dewclaws may be removed. Feet should be compact, turning neither in nor out, with well arched toes.

Faults
Loose or loaded shoulders. Tied in or bowed out elbows.

Hindquarters: The hindquarters are strongly muscled with angulation in balance with that of the forequarters.

The thighs are broad and curved, the breech musculature hard and strongly developed. Upper and lower thigh long. Leg well angulated at the stifle with a clearly defined, well "let down" hock joint. Viewed from behind, the hind legs should be straight with hock joints leaning neither in nor out. From the side, the leg below the hock (metatarsus) should be almost perpendicular to the ground , with a slight slope to the rear permissible. The metatarsus should be short, clean and strong. The Boxer has no rear dewclaws.

Faults
Steep or over-angulated hindquarters. Light thighs or overdeveloped hams. Over-angulated (sickle) hocks. Hindquarters too far under or too far behind.

Coat
Short, shiny, lying smooth and tight to the body.

Color
The colors are fawn and brindle. Fawn shades vary from light tan to mahogany. The brindle ranges from sparse but clearly defined black stripes on a fawn background, to such a heavy concentration of black striping that the essential fawn background color barely, although clearly, shows through (which may create the appearance of "reverse brindling").

White markings should be of such distribution as to enhance the dog's appearance, but may not exceed one-third of the entire coat. They are not desirable on the flanks or on the back of the torso proper. On the face, white may replace part of the otherwise essential black mask, and may extend in an upward path between the eyes, but it must not be excessive, so as to detract from true Boxer expression.

Faults
Unattractive or misplaced white markings.

Disqualifications
Boxers that are any color other than fawn or brindle. Boxers with a total of white markings exceeding one-third of the entire coat.

Gait
Viewed from the side, proper front and rear angulation is manifested in a smoothly efficient, level-backed, ground covering stride with powerful drive emanating from a freely operating rear. Although the front legs do not contribute impelling power, adequate "reach" should be evident to prevent interference, overlap, or "sidewinding" (crabbing). Viewed from the front, the shoulders should remain trim and the elbows not flare out. The legs are parallel until gaiting narrows the track in proportion to increasing speed, then the legs come in under the body but should never cross. The line from the shoulder down through the leg should remain straight although not necessarily perpendicular to the ground. Viewed from the rear, a Boxer's rump should not roll. The hind feet should "dig in" and track relatively true with the front. Again, as speed increases, the normally broad rear track will become narrower.

Faults
Stilted or inefficient gait. Lack of smoothness.

Character and Temperament
These are of paramount importance in the Boxer. Instinctively a "hearing" guard dog, his bearing is alert, dignified and self-assured. In the show ring, his behavior should exhibit constrained animation. With family and friends, his temperament is fundamentally playful, yet patient and stoical with children. Deliberate and wary with strangers, he will exhibit curiosity, but, most importantly, fearless courage if threatened. However, he responds promptly to friendly overtures honestly rendered. His intelligence, loyal affection and tractability to discipline make him a highly desirable companion.

Faults Lack of dignity and alertness. Shyness.

The foregoing description is that of the ideal Boxer. Any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation.

Be a Responsible Boxer Owner :

AKC registration is NOT an indication of quality. Most dogs, even purebred, should not be bred. Many dogs, though wonderful pets, have defects of structure, personality or health that should not be perpetuated. Breeding animals should be proven free of these defects BEFORE starting on a reproductive career. Breeding should be done with the goal of IMPROVEMENT, an honest attempt to create puppies better than their parents, thus bettering the boxer breed.

PLEASE DO NOT BRING A BOXER LITTER INTO THE WORLD WITHOUT TAKING RESPONSIBILITY FOR EACH PUP. YOUR RESPONSIBILITY DOES NOT END WITH THE SALE OF EACH PUP. YOU SHOULD ALSO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THAT PUP LATER ON DOWN THE ROAD IF HE/SHE ENDS UP IN A SHELTER, RESCUE HOME, OR HUMANE SOCIETY FOR WHATEVER REASON. DON'T TURN YOUR BACK ON WHAT YOU BROUGHT INTO THIS WORLD. AS THEIR "BREEDER", YOU HAVE AN OBLIGATION TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR OWN AND TO NOT FILL UP ALL THE SHELTERS AND RESCUE HOMES WITH BOXERS WHO HAVE BEEN CAST ASIDE BY THEIR OWN "BREEDERS". THIS IS A SAD, DISGRACEFUL THING THAT HAPPENS ALL TO OFTEN IN OUR AREA. EVEN MORE DISGRACEFUL ARE THOSE SAME "BREEDERS" WHO REPEAT THIS CYCLE CONSTANTLY EACH TIME THEIR BITCHES COME INTO SEASON. WHETHER IT'S ONE OF THOSE CARELESS "BREEDERS" PUPS OR SENIOR BOXERS, THEY SIT BACK AND LET THE RESPONSIBLE, CARING BREEDERS CLEAN UP AFTER THEM, AS MANY OF THEIR BOXERS KEEP FINDING THEIR WAY TO A SHELTER OR RESCUE HOME! ANYONE WHO MATES TWO DOGS TOGETHER CAN CALL THEMSELVES A "BREEDER", WHETHER THE DOGS ARE MIXED BREED, PUREBRED, REGISTERED, HEALTHY, OR NOT. BE RESPONSIBLE, BE A SINCERE BREEDER AND A GUARDIAN OF THE BOXER BREED. THEY DESERVE IT!

If you are breeding just for the children's "education" or for having a puppy out of your wonderful pet, remember the whelping may be at 3 a.m. or at the vet's office on the surgery table for an emergency c-section in which the children are not allowed to view. Even if the children are present at a normal whelping, they may witness a complicated birth that is hard enough on the bitch without the extra stress added by extra onlookers. The unexpected may happen and the bitch may bite you as you attempt to deliver a pup that is half out and too large. Some bitches are not natural mothers and ignore or savage their whelps. Bitches can have severe delivery problems or even die in whelp. Pups can be born dead or with gross deformities that require euthanasia. Please consider the emotional effect this can have on children and don?t breed just to create more pets, when the rescue homes and shelters are full of all the unwanted pups (including purebred, registered boxers) that are left over from litters or abandoned later in life. Be responsible for each boxers life, FOR ITS ENTIRE LIFE!

IT'S MIDNIGHT, DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR PUPPIES ARE?

There are FIVE MILLION unwanted dogs put to death in pounds in this country each year, with millions more dying, homeless and unwanted through starvation, disease, automobiles, abuse, etc. Nearly a quarter of the victims of this unspeakable tragedy are purebred dogs "with papers". Will you carefully screen buyers? Or will you just take the money and not worry about if the pup is chained in a junkyard all of its life or runs in the street and is killed? Will you turn down a sale to a potential buyer? Or will you say "yes" and not think about the puppy you held and loved now having a litter of mongrels every time she comes in season? Can you live with the thought that a baby you brought into the world will be destroyed at the pound? Given the choice, informed owners much prefer to buy a puppy from a professional or sincere, educated breeder who has the best interests in mind for the future of the litter produced as well as the future of the breed.

ARE YOU THINKING ABOUT BREEDING YOUR BOXER?

When one thinks about reproducing an animal, there are many obvious questions to consider. Is the dog of sound temperament? Is it an excellent representative of the breed, true to the standard? Is it in excellent health? Some less obvious questions to consider are :

Do I know which health problems are specific to my breed? Have I had my bitch checked for hip dysplasia? Sub-aortic Stenosis? Cardiomyopathy? Hypothyroidism? Other traceable inherited conditions? Has the stud been checked, too?

Can I accept the loss of my bitch to have this litter? (Complications do happen and bitches do die during and after whelping.)

Will I find the best male possible to complement my bitch, even if it means flying to another state and spending a few thousand dollars to do the breeding?

Have I educated myself about whelping and raising puppies so that I will recognize a problem before it is too late?

Can I take off work for several days around the bitch's whelping date so she won't be unattended during her delivery?

Do I have enough money saved in the event that a C-section is required?

Do I have the ability to take a few weeks off work to raise the litter should anything happen to the dam? Can I afford up to $100 a week for milk replacer if the dam has no milk?

Can I afford to feed a litter of weaned growing puppies until they are sold? (This can cost as much as $50 a week if the litter is large)

Can I afford to vaccinate the puppies if they are not sold by the time vaccinations are due?

How selective will I be in finding homes for the puppies? What criteria will new owners have to meet? (Do they have fenced yards, will they be able to afford routine medical care, will they be able to afford veterinary bills if an emergency rises, will they continue to feed the pup a quality diet, etc.?)

Will I take back any unwanted puppies or adult dogs that I have produced when their owners no longer want them?

Please DO NOT breed your dog if you can't answer YES to all of the above questions!!

Submitted and by: Wendy Wallner, DVM July, 1997

TAKE A PEEK AT SOMEINTERESTING & EDUCATIONAL SITES:

The American Boxer Club ABC Code of Ethics
History of the Boxer White Boxer Facts

Your Boxers' Health White Boxers and Deafness

The content of this web page was designed to offer educational information to our fellow boxer enthusiasts, and to offer a point of view that you may not have considered before. Hopefully we all have in common the preservation and betterment of the Boxer breed. The Spokane Boxer Club, Inc. is not responsible for any of the linked web sites page content; they are simply for your entertainment and included to further your introduction to this wonderful breed. Enjoy!

Animated boxer is used with permission, copyright and created by Amy Willder

CURRENT EVENTS:

The Spokane Boxer Club, Inc. Specialty Show and Sweepstakes will be held indoors on Saturday evening May 24, 2003 at the Spokane Interstate Fairgrounds. The Show Superintendent is Onofrio Dog Shows, who may be contacted at (405) 427-8181 or online at http://www.onofrio.com

PLEASE DIRECT ALL SPOKANE BOXER CLUB, INC. CORRESPONDENCE
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The Spokane Boxer Club, Inc.

2330 South Dishman-Mica Road

Spokane, Wa. 99206

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This page was updated on January 1, 2003.






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