We had to get up early again so that we could leave the hotel at 4.15am. We didn’t actually leave until 4.25 because Helen and Kate’s alarm didn’t go off and Simon and Mark had to run and wake them and help them shove everything into rucksacks and get bags downstairs while the other two were getting dressed.
We managed to pile onto the bus, me sitting by Selina as arranged. We didn’t talk much though, as she slept for most of the journey. Instead, I sat by the window, talking to Mark who sat behind me. We were looking for crocodiles in the river that ran alongside the road.
We jumped off the bus at some random place, all our bags were unloaded, and then, we were told that it wasn’t the right place! So, we got on the bus again and were told to get off at a place called Chacarita, which turned out to be a petrol station with a large house over the road and a couple of cafés and restaurants. It had been sunny all day, and even as we got off the bus, but suddenly, inexplicably, it began to rain. This was no little trickle of rain, this was a real rainy-season tropical downpour. We all had to shelter underneath the petrol station while we waited for the bus.
Well, we waited, and waited and waited and waited and wai…………
…ted until we had been there nearly three hours. It was 2.45 and we had been waiting since 12.00. The bus pulled up and we squeezed onto it. There was no room in the hold for our rucksacks, and no seats together, so Geoff and Simon sat on rucksacks on the steps, the rest of the rucksacks were in the aisle and I was sitting by this German guy who spoke perfect English who ended up in the same hotel as us with his girlfriend.
We reached La Palma at about 4.30, and Helen and I, as joint accommodation people for the day (With me being on Journal and Helen being Morale!) went with Ricardo who showed us where we would stay. The owner of the small hotel did not seem to understand that we could not have a girl in with the guys, so we just sneaked Helen into the room with the others, so there was Helen, Katy, Selina, Cheryl and Jennie in one room, Kate and I in another, and Jane was next door to us with Liz. There were a couple of Gecko lizards in one of the bathrooms, but other than that, the rooms were clean and had electric fans to ward away some of the heat.
At 5.30, we went to start cooking. Tea was either Spag-Bol or Veggie Chilli. Mark and I were making fun of the ‘lovebirds’ of the evening, Selina and Simon, who made us feel excluded from the cooking, just by being together, and he was beginning to flirt with her like anything! However, I think the others were making quiet comments about Mark and I on the bus.
Ricardo came to discuss what we were going to do, and we decided to miss out the Eco-camp, as suggested by Carlos, and to spend a rest day at Puerto Jiménez instead of La Leona. Then, we went to sort out our kit. We could practically half it, getting rid of sleeping bag (and my fleece liner) t-shirts, sandals, everything. -We just needed trangias, tents, one change of clothes and mess tins really. We also did a couple of practise river crossings. I was put in a group with Liz and Simon which annoyed me slightly for some reason.
Mark asked me again to sew his shorts which I did after Jane checked through my kit. We sat out in the kitchen area. (We had been allowed to use the gas stove instead of having to use trangias. Yay!) I sewed by torchlight because the lights had been turned off. After a quick kiss (our first) goodnight, we both went off to bed, as I still needed to put my kit into my rucksack and we didn’t want to disturb our respective roommates.
Day 12 Los Patos Thursday 18th July 2002
Today was quite weird. We got picked up by ‘the tractor’ and Ricardo at 6am. I don’t think any of us really imagined what the ‘tractor’ would be like. However, it was just that! A tractor with a trailer on the back. The trailer had only 3 sides, and because it was so full, (all 12 of us, and the German couple) we thought that Geoff and Jane might get bounced off the back. The floor was incredibly muddy so we sat on bags which were spread over the floor for us. I was squashed between Helen and Liz and trying desperately not to get my trousers wet. We drove through the rainforest and rivers that came almost as high as the trailer floor. A 14km drive took 1½ hours, a journey that on a normal road, and by car, would barely have taken 15 minutes. In the middle of a river, the tractor backed up towards the bank to let us off and Ricardo introduced us to our guide, promising to change the day of our taxi for the journey to Puerto Jiménez. We put on our rucksacks and walked the 2km to Los Patos, the ranger station we are staying at tonight. By the time we put our tents up, it was still only 9am. Luckily, World Challenge sent out new tent poles for our tent with the other team, so we had them by the time we were back in San José. We sat around for a while, relaxing and then played lots of team games aimed at improving communication, such as the blindfold/rope/get-into-square game, and the game where we had to put objects into a pattern without going to look, etc.
Lunch was tomato soup and tea was Sweet and Sour MacDougals. Now, I’m sitting outside, getting bitten by mosquitoes, flirting with Mark and laughing at Simon and Sul who obviously fancy each other, even thought they pretend that they don’t!
Day 13 Sirena Friday 19th July 2002
Yesterday finished quite nicely with me lying on the deck at Los Patos with Mark on my right, and Selina, Simon and Katy on the other side of him (in that order). I couldn’t go-to-tent (same as going ‘to bed’, only there isn’t one!) until the others did, as Mark was the only one with a torch.
Today was hell. (Most of it!) We got up to leave Los Patos for La Sirena at 6am, but didn’t leave until 6.30. We ate porridge with marshmallow bits in it to celebrate Selina’s birthday.
It was a 17/18km trek through the jungle. I’ve got into the habit of calling it ‘jungle’ instead of ‘rainforest’ since I got here. I started the day feeling cross with Simon for telling me to go to the front. -Maybe I’m not very fit, but I’m not the group’s slowest, and loads of people have struggled more than me today. Anyway, it soon transpired that Kate and Helen were slower than me, so they went in front. I desperately tried not to fall over but I did once. I put my feet the wrong way round on a root-step, got tangled up and down I went. Apparently it was a spectacular fall and about 6 people crowded round, asking if I was ok. Everyone seemed to think I was half dead, or would have broken bones, but I don’t think the fall even gave me a bruise.
It was really hilly, muddy and slippery for most of the first 5km, and then it was mainly just muddy and slippery. People with walking poles seemed to find it a little easier than those without. One of the funniest moments was discovering that it is possible to run with rucksacks. -The guide made us run down a slope and round a corner away from the ants. I don’t know what they were but they weren’t carrying leaves, so I imagine that they were Army ants. -They give a nasty bite.
Approximately every hour, we had a 10minute break to give our back a rest and have a snack. I developed a strong respect for some sticky sesame seed biscuits which are completely yummy!
We did several ‘river’ crossings, none of them being deeper than my knees or wider than about 4m, but even though they were nice and cool, they filled everyone’s walking boots with water, and even though I’ve had them lying in the sun all afternoon, they’re still soaking wet.
With 1½ km to go, Selina had to stop as she couldn’t breathe. Then Liz went faint. Jane gave Liz’s rucksack to Simon and Selina’s to the guide. When Sul stopped, I nearly had a panic attack as I realised that I was out of water and that I couldn’t breath either. In addition, I began to have a very bruised feeling on my hips from my rucksack. Geoff had a small bottle which he had filled with water at the last stream and which he gave to me for my Platypus.
When we got to Sirena, we all collapsed, then put up tents, then collapsed again! Eventually we had dinner and sat down and socialised for a while. Everyone was giving and receiving massages for their aching shoulders. Jane told Mark that if he refused to have one, that he wouldn’t be able to move them in the morning. I offered as he was a bit reluctant to ask anyone, then I sat in front of him while he did mine because he felt guilty about making me stand up. -By the time it got to my turn, my shoulders were absolutely fine, but it was very relaxing all the same. Gradually, everyone went to bed, with Helen going at about 9, Katy and 9.15 and Simon and Selina at 10, leaving just Mark and I to sit and talk. Kate had gone to bed really early because she was ill. -She felt sick and shivery. Mark and I just sat there until about 1.30 in the morning. The guide was sitting on the other side of the deck to us sleeping, and on the way to bed, I bumped into Liz who gave me such a surprise that I nearly dropped all of my things. She said ‘hello’ as though it was only 1.30 in the afternoon, and as though there was nothing strange in me just going to bed!
Day 14 Sirena Saturday 20th July 2002
We intended to eat breakfast late because we had a free day, but because of the heat in the tents, we were all out of bed about an hour and a half before the scheduled time. -Therefore about 6.30/7.00am. So, we cooked porridge and ate it on the deck long before 9am.
There were lots of Americans doing research at Sirena. They were staying in the tents that were provided by the ranger station. They told us that if we walked to the beach for high tide at 11am, we should be able to see some sharks. There was also the option of taking a longer route back through the forest. After yesterday’s ‘walk’, I didn’t really feel like taking an extra 3km hike today so I went to the beach (800m there, 800m back, and lots of black sand), sat for a while, nibbling on some of our snacks. Before long it was beginning to get dull. The sharks were there, but too far away for good photos without a zoom lens. It was also very hot, even with hats and water so Katy, Selina and I asked if we could go back. Simon, Jennie and Geoff stayed on the breach and walked up and down it for a while, the others walked on the long trail where they saw a crocodile and we (Katy, Selina, Mark and I) went back to the campsite where we ate peanuts and had a rest. I managed to get sunburnt knees, Mark got huge ant bites, Selina went to sleep on the deck and Katy just sat in a chair!
The others came back and Jane and Liz cooked lunch. The rest of the day was spent relaxing until again, it was just Mark and I, Selina, Katy and Simon. They all went to bed, and we were awake again until about 12.00.
Day 15 La Leona Sunday 21st July 2002
Was declared joint Muppet Of The Day today for not going to bed early the ‘Night before a big trek’. However, I don’t feel overly tired, and no matter what anybody says, I was not behind when getting ready. My stuff wasn’t packed, but I wouldn’t have packed it last night anyway because of Kate being in the tent really early and not feeling well. Simon and Jennie said that Mark and I weren’t ready on time. -The only reason Mark wasn’t ready was because he needed the loo and needed to take his boots off to go back across the deck.
The walk to La Leona was 16km which we thought was going to be a nice easy beach walk, but it turned out to be hell. About half of it was on the beach which is really difficult to walk on in boots and rucksacks. It was also very hot and there was no shade so what we thought would be a nice, easy day, turned out to be quite nasty.
There was a really evil climb up a muddy, roots slope, and a worse one down the other side and over a stream. 4 of us crossed the stream, me being the third with Mark behind me. I realised too late that a mass of branches in my way was covered in spikes and I fell into it. I thought Mark had pushed me forward because he bumped by rucksack and I shrieked “Don’t push me”. I actually got quite scared. I don’t like the sensation of falling at the best of times (roller-coasters aside!) and I fell into the spikes. I only pricked my finger, but as far as I was concerned, that plant could have been poisonous and by the time I got to the bottom of the slope, back on to the beach I could hardly see or breathe. I burst into tears and Jennie made me take off my rucksack and undo half my buttons. At the same time, Katy had breathing problems at the top of the hill, and Jane made her take her clothes off and throw them into the stream to cool her down.
But, by the time we eventually got here, it was worth it. La Leona is very basic. There isn’t any electricity and the toilets are really small (i.e. can hardly close the door!) but we have practically pitched our tents on the beach. Kate went mad as soon as we got here and spent the whole time lying down in the sea. We were going to spend our rest day here, but instead we’ll be heading to Puerto Jiménez tomorrow. Selina says she hopes it’s worth it because she’ll be “really cross to find out the Puerto Jiménez isn’t as nice as this”. There is a hut, similar to the one at La Fortuna, but larger and not so private, but just perfect for cooking.
On the way here, we saw macaws in a tree. -There were lots of them but too far away for a proper photo so I didn’t bother. Then, about 20 minutes later at the end of the path, with the ranger station in sight, there was a huge snake which Kate nearly stepped on, not seeing it even though it was in the middle of the path! It was kind of pale green or silver and I have no idea what it was but Jane nearly had a fit when Helen pointed it out. She made Helen and Kate rush on and the rest of us wait until it had gone. That was quite scary really.
Day 16 Puerto Jiménez Monday 22nd July 2002
We left La Leona for another walk along the beach. This one was short. We were told 45 minutes, so we allowed an hour but arrived after 35 minutes. We had to walk to Caráte which turned out to be a single shop. The taxi to take us to Port Jimmy (as Puerto Jiménez has now become known) was supposed to arrive at 10am.
After a while, it dawned on us that Ricardo had forgotten to change the day of the taxi, and that we’d probably end up waiting until tomorrow for it if we didn’t do something. We decided to ring Carlos, as he seemed infinitely more reliable than Ricardo. Mark, Selina and I set out for the nearest hotel, apparently 500m East along the road. Being on the Pacific coast, we assumed that East would be inland, and off we went. The walk was taking a long time, but that could just have been because of Selina’s bad foot (very painful, although nobody knows what she did to it). We came across a stream which seemed overly large and we went back to get ‘help’ in the form of walking poles and Jane. Ten minutes later, we returned with both of these things, and set about crossing the river, which wasn’t as fast or deep as it looked. The road meandered in such a way that we had to cross the river at every bend. We headed for signs saying ‘Luna Lodge’ and were told that it had a telephone. A sign said “Luna Lodge, 7 Minutes” but a man we asked told us that on foot, it was another 15. We went back. Selina’s foot was too bad to risk all that distance and the steep hill, even with walking poles. As it was, Mark had to give her a piggyback for part of the way. By this time, it was about 1.00pm
A delivery truck pulled up at the shop and the driver offered to get in touch with Ricardo via his radio. Our two taxis arrived just as we were settling down to our chicken Casados. It was constructed in a similar way to an army truck, with a sheet to keep off the rain, but I imagine that it was not half as sturdy as your average army truck! Jane, Jennie, Liz and Simon had already eaten, so while we ate, they went in the first taxi with all the rucksacks and the driver, Jean Pierre. He stopped to show them every monkey and exotic bird through the forest while we were thrown around on every possible bump. I was squeezed in between Mark and Katy. I came to the conclusion during this journey, that Costa Ricans prefer driving through rather than over rivers, as we went through about 10, and over only 2!
When we got to our campsite, there was a building that we had access to with two bunk beds, a toilet and shower (both behind shower curtains only and no locks). We used that for meetings as it was nicer to sit on beds than the floor. When we walked in, we found all the stuff that we had left at La Palma waiting for us. -Oh, friendly sandals, and gorgeous, clean t-shirt!!!
We went out for dinner and I was made Muppet of the Day for ‘accidentally sticking a straw up my nose’. -The straw did not even touch my nose!!! I had Chicken and Rice, but it was really dry, not nearly as nice as the one I had in the restaurant next to the hotel in San José. We had our meeting in the hut, all lying on the (very useful) beds. -It turns out though, that the beds liked to bite. They had some sort of insect in the mattresses. Kate fell asleep and had to be woken up for the rest of the meeting! I was up a bit late again, but found my way to the tent alright, as I had my torch in my rucksack!
Day 17 Port Jimmy!! Tuesday 23rd July 2002
Today was not so good. It started off fine, with breakfast (porridge) being cooked and eaten on the beach, and 6 of us going into town. Three went food shopping, while I went with Cheryl and Mark to see what options there where for later that afternoon. We came up with a deal on kayaking (a bit like canoeing). I think the offer was $20 each. Our guide was Alberto Robleto who was our Puerto Jiménez contact anyway, and owner of the campsite.
Just after 2pm, when we had finished Helen’s ratatouille (all compliments to the chef!) we walked to Alberto’s house where he gave us a quick demonstration on how to use the paddles before we donned our buoyancy aids and went back to the campsite to drag our kayaks onto the beach. At first, it was a lot of fun, with a lot of us doing it for the first time. We headed off into the Mangrove swamps where we all got attacked by trees and some people tried termites. -I refused to, as did Katy and Selina and obviously Jennie, but apparently they tasted like wood.
At this point, it was full daylight, and we headed out to the open sea to watch the dolphins and the sunset. While still on the beach, Alberto cut up a few pineapples for us in the coolest way!! Then we started paddling. I only saw a couple of dolphin fins. I think I was in the wrong spot as people were in front of me. They were further away than I thought. The sunset was very pretty though. It was strange because immediately above us, there was a huge patch of blue sky, but circling that was a ring of think black cloud. Away to the right (the coast leading towards Panama), the rain was so thick that the cliffs couldn’t be seen, and the sun was going down straight ahead. A lot of the sunset was partially obscured by cloud, but even so, Mark said that it was among his top three favourite views. -His favourite was on Arenal when the rest of us were on the bus and he said that the clouds cleared just for a moment and he could see the top.
The guide (Alberto again) came over and told us that there was only 12 minutes of proper light left so we started to paddle back. This was where it got really tough. I don’t exactly have strong arm muscles, and behind us, Jane was shouting “go on Kate, catch up with Helen, go on Jeanette, catch up with Kate, go on so-and-so, over take such-and-such” until I couldn’t paddle any faster and didn’t seem to be going anywhere. I got panicky because I was getting further and further behind and in the end (utter humiliation), Jane asked Geoff to attach me to the back of her kayak and she dragged me behind her to the beach until it got to too shallow. My sense of dignity was not restored by the time we hit the shore and I was left feeling really pathetic.
We went for dinner at the same place as last night where this time, I took Liz’s advice and tried the Chicken with Ginger which was far nicer than last night’s rice. Then, we bundled Helen and Selina into a taxi (because of Sul’s foot and Helen’s blister) and walked back to the campsite. Simon makes Selina sit with her leg almost constantly in the air to try and get the swelling down. It doesn’t seem to be doing much good though, and Jane isn’t sure that she should try the mountain, which means that there’s a bit of a problem as to what to do with her while we are trekking. -She can’t spend three days by herself, it obviously isn’t going to be safe and she’ll have nothing to do either.
When we got back, we gave Mark a group de-brief on his leadership and got our stuff ready for tomorrow. -We had to pack everything into rucksacks and get as early a night as we could because the bus to San Gerardo leaves at 5am and it’ll take at least 30 minutes to walk into Port Jimmy from here.
