Track Tips I ran my TII at lapping events for 5 years. I have been running my 3rdGen on lapping events for 3 years. I'm not an expert or even very fast but I have had good luck keeping the cars reliable. I have the following advice in order of mods: Notice how low horsepower is. For the street I would put that first. 6 point belt - lapping is more fun when you don't have to spend effort hanging on. Race tires and race brakes - don't try to run them on the street (dead rotors, heat cycled tires) I have tried the Hawks and Porterfields and I prefer the hawk gold (cheaper). I go through a set of pads in a weekend. I went through a set of Porterfields in one day! I go through a set of tires in two weekends. The more experience you have, the faster the tires and brakes wear. Temperature control - seal air leaks in belly pan and add Water temp gauge - check it every lap and lift when you pass 235. If you are lifting all the time then add a bigger radiator. If you run events in over 80 deg regions then you will exceed 235. Raising horsepower makes this worse. You can make a center mount from a PVC elbow or spend $100 and get Pettit's. Get the long version of the mechanical cable for the temp gauge and tap the fat part of the aluminum housing (requires removing the intercooler). Track alignment - more neg camber gives better lap times at the expense of the inside of your street tires. Play with your rear neg camber at the track to balance car. Mark the current setting and you can change it as you like. I like LOTS of understeer at the track. I run almost equal neg camber front and rear. Most after market antiroll bars add understeer and may change this. Shocks, springs and antiroll bars - this will have a bigger effect on lap times than a cat back and not decrease reliability. This makes car harder to drive but ultimately improves lap times. Computer/intake/catback - do these together as the computer map depends on the mods. DO NOT change intake and catback without computer. This is OK for the street but lapping is a different animal. Add oil premix during lapping weekends. Pull the AC fuse and run ac to help cooling (forces fans to high). Change your brake fluid to high temp stuff before every weekend.
	Redline in the Tranny Previously I mention I had changed from Redline MTL (manual transmission lubricant) to Amsoil Series 2000 75w90 in the tranny and that shifting suffered, particularly when cold. Well, stupid me and my mechanic. There are two drain bolts, drain them both. There are two fill holes on the tranny, one a regular bolt and the other a T55 Torex. The Torex bolt is above the other one and was used to refill the tranny with the Amsoil 75w90. This is NOT the one to use. Using it to determine when the tranny is full results in overfilling the tranny by at least a quart and very hard shifting. The Amsoil would probably have be fine if the tranny hadn’t been overfilled. This Torex bolt doesn’t appear anywhere in the service manual and I haven’t been able to fine out what it is for. The tranny is now full of Redline MTL (naturally we figured this out after the Amsoil was dumped!) and shifting is again excellent. Hope this saves someone else a hassle. Using the proper fill hole the tranny takes exactly 2.5 quarts, just as specified.