Selecting a Manual Wheelchair



Manual wheelchairs can cost anywhere from under $300 to over $4,000. Generally, the more expensive the chair the lighter and/or easier it is to propel. But paying more $$$ does not necessarily give the user the best chair for the $$$. Many people need a very light weight chair because the person loading it into the car cannot lift a "standard" weight chair. Yet the person using the chair can or will not be propelling it. In that case, a "companion" (it requires a companion to push the chair) wheelchair for around $400 may be the best chair at =any= price. [The picture to the right is this type of chair. Note in the picture below it that the back can also fold- making it even more compact.]

Sometimes the answer is not a lighter chair, but other means of loading it. Devices abound for this purpose- see section on "traveling with mobility equipment" for more information. Weight is important for lifting into the vehicle, but the quality of the bearings and the rigidity of the chair (includes folding chairs) determine more than weight how far you will be able to go, given a fixed amount of strength. I want to clarify that this statement is a general one for choosing a "first chair", not for someone into sports. Don't over buy or under buy your first chair. Assess your needs realistically. But if you don't see sports in your future for the next few years, you can save over $500 and possibly closer to $1,000 by getting a good light weight chair with fixed adjustments rather than a sports chair. (Example get a Quickie LX or Breezy rather than a Quickie 2).


The cheaper manual chairs (sometimes called "hospital" or "Medicare" wheelchairs) are what you normally see in a mall or airport. They are heavy and durable, but difficult to lift and propel. [The picture above is an example of this kind of chair.] The last 10 years has seen a major reinvention of the wheelchair- manual chairs today are lighter and much more efficient than chairs of a decade ago. Back then, a chair just kind of "slid" open and then "flexed" as you pushed. The advent of "sports chairs" has shown that a chair can still fold, but be "rigid" when open- allowing the user to use significantly less "power" on the handrims to go a certain distance. The old chairs just sort of "folded" every time a person "pushed"- the user was literally doing "push-ups" as s/he went down the road. Now that energy is transmitted to the road, not to "squeeze" the user. Many of these chairs allow for adjustments of where the rear wheel is placed in relationship to the user, allowing for a "lighter" front end and even easier maneuverability. These features- not available at all 15 or so years ago is now "standard" on many lightweight chairs- not just "sports chairs". At the same time, prices have actually fallen so many wheelchairs are cheaper now then 10 years ago. When inflation is taken into effect, just about every wheelchair is cheaper now than when I got into this business. Unfortunately, for many people used to the old style "feel" of folding chairs, the new chairs may feel uncomfortable, unstable, or just plain flimsy. The difference in "feel" may be equated to that of a heavy luxury car vs a light weight sports car. Many customers who have been using wheelchairs for decades just can't seem to make the adjustment. It is important to try different chairs before buying to see what "feels" right for you. Once the new chair is purchased "hide" the old chair for a couple of weeks to "force" the feeling of the new one on you. Many times it works! And speaking of "feel", you should "test drive" as many different types, makes, and models of chairs as you can. Differences abound even within certain "ranges". Invacare makes 2 chairs very close in price, but with different "feels" for just this reason (Patriot and 9000). Quickie does the same thing. It pays to compare.

  • WARRANTIES are important on the more expensive chairs. The more expensive, the more important. Please see my section on warranties for some important information.
  • A CASE STUDY ON THE RECOMMENDATION OF A WHEELCHAIR I recently had to recommend a wheelchair for a family member who through a medical situation became a paraplegic overnight. This person want's to be independent and to "push" a wheelchair. This is what I recommended. Every situation is different, but it gives an idea of some of the basics and what questions to ask: 1. The chair must fold. It must fold in the "traditional" fashion- remove the cushion, lift the foot plates, and pull up on the center of the seat upholstery. No solid back, no release lever, no removing of wheels to load in car (though removable wheels are encouraged- more on that later). There are too many reasons to list why you want this- which is why it is number one on the list. It is not negotiable. Failure to get a chair like this will mean disaster in the near future (and an order for a folding chair). 2. The chair should have "molded" (i.e. nylon "mag" ) wheels with flat free, no maintenance tires. There are various tires available and what style/type is up for discussion but the tires themselves should not require air and the wheels they are on should not require any kind of spoke maintenance. These wheels will not bend and their tires will not go flat. Hence, the reason for these is obvious. 3. The front casters should be a minimum of 6" in diameter, and I would encourage your first chair to have 8" casters. These too should be flat free, solid rubber preferred. This will help you get over door thresholds and uneven surfaces outdoors. Future chairs can have smaller sized casters, your first chair should have these. 4. The chair must have anti-tipping rollers. They can easily be removed as your skills improve, though for the first full year, I would keep them on. Hitting the back of your head against the concrete when you go over backwards can crack the sidewalk and the city objects to that... 5. The chair must have brakes (don't laugh...). I prefer push-to-lock if they go lower than the cushion as it makes transfers easier, though some pull to lock get close enough to the tires not to be a problem. I also prefer the first chair to have "hill holders" incorporated into the brakes for ramps that aren't to code (and for hills). 6. The chair must have push handles. If it is a folding chair, it will have them automatically. There will be times that you will WANT to be pushed and it gives a place to hang a backpack. 7. The chair must have arms. Some very active users don't have arms on some of their chairs. You are the 16 year old learning to drive. You are not learning in a Ferrari (this applies to the sports chair you are in right now- more later). The learning I'm talking about is NOT in the hospital just like learning to drive is not just driver's ed. You will need arms for weight transfer, pressure release (yes, you could push on the wheels) and transferring into the chair. You will also want them for the times you are being pushed. The type of arm is up for debate- more information further in this article. The arms can always be removed by you. To keep the chair as narrow as possible (those door ways- and remember you will be visiting people's homes in the future) the arms should be "space saver" sometimes called wrap around). 8. There is an excellent chance you will be standing. Because of this, I strongly recommend front rigging that swings away as well as the foot plates that flip up. It will make a standing transfer much easier as the front of the chair will be "clear" of obstructions. Most folding chairs I'm recommending come with this feature automatically. 9. I feel your first chair should have essentially zero camber in the rear wheels. This has to do with keeping the chair as narrow as possible. You will have other chairs for special uses- those can have camber. I mentioned removable wheels. I like this feature for times when the chair has to be loaded into a small car or by someone unable to lift the entire chair. I can even foresee you removing the wheels, lifting them over you to the passenger side of a car, then folding the frame and lifting THAT over you to load a chair, though that would not be the preferred way every day of driving (but rental cars can be ordered with hand controls and that is a scenario where you may do it). This basic starter chair for you is not going to be the lightest you encounter. That is fine. The extra weight and wider wheels gives better grip on a wet bathroom floor and even on just a hardwood/tile floor for transferring. The extra mass also makes the chair more forgiving on ramps and other surfaces. You will have other chairs, and as your skills improve over time you may decide that a sports chair- even a non-folding one is appropriate for your daily ride. But you will still need that starter chair at times. Tire selection is not critical but these points have to be discussed (pros and cons vis a vis you) and I have no passion regarding this (though my advice is in the order presented). 1. Solid no tread tire. (a good compromise from the others below and lasts the longest-i.e. least maintenance required). Also available with some tread, but tread does not last all that long. 2. A "bicycle" sized/style treaded tire (24"X1 3/8") grey tire WITH FOAM TUBELESS FLATFREE INSERT (best for traction- not only outdoors, but for holding the chair stable when transferring- particularly on a wet or waxed floor). This is the "heaviest" of all the tires but that is not all bad as its "mass" gives you a "flywheel effect" once you get moving. 3. #2 above but with a more narrow 1" treaded tire. Great, but tread life is not great for active users. A little lighter than #2. 4. The hospital provided chair you are in now probably has a 3/4" "primo skin" tire. It may be filled with up to 110 pounds of air (very, very high maintenance) With an inner tube (NEVER RECOMMENDED), it is the lightest "outdoor" tire available, but I consider it an "indoor" tire. Some people put a foam tubeless flatfree insert in that (which makes it heavier, but lighter than 1-3 above). This really does not have great traction and the tires do not last long. If you were going to go with this, choose #1 instead. Outdoor tires can be used indoors. In the past, some indoor sports chairs used an inner tube with a tread glued to it as the tire for very light weight. These were called "sew up" tires. Never to be used outdoors, they had a very, very short life and were prone to leaks. I don't even think they are being made- being replaced with the primo "skin" tires in #4. Wheelchair tires usually are grey in color. Instead of being "doped" with carbon black they are made with chalk or plastic resins as the binding agent. This also makes the tire softer for a better grip. This is to keep marks to a minimum on light color floors. Black bicycle tires can be used on wheelchairs- they are a tenth of the price and last much longer but any place you go indoors- the people will hate you. Not recommend. Some solid smooth tires are also black. This is NOT what I am talking about and they will not leave marks. Arms: Get them. They are cheaper when you order the chair and you can take them off (leave the sockets on). Whatever style you choose, get the space saver wrap around arms. I will discuss this further below. Arm styles come in flip-back and sports arms. Flip back can also be ordered in user adjustable height and two lengths- desk and full. Some people do not like them because they look so "wheelchair" (i.e. not cool). They add a bit of weight, but I think that the PT staff may be putting too much emphasis on the extra pound that these arms may weigh (ditto for the one extra pound for inserts in the tires). I recommend you get the flip back arms. They are still removable, but as I said, they can be taken out of the way in the most cramped area and they are still "attached" to the chair. Desk length arms are usually the best as you can "drive" under a table. With full length arms, you would have to flip back the arms first, then pull forward. With adjustable height arms (you push a button to adjust- like reclining a car seat). If you choose full length in adjustable, you may be able to lower them enough to go under most tables . The advantage of full length arms is that if you are able to stand (for transfer or to use crutches, etc), the added length gives you something to hold on to as you push yourself up. Some therapists do not want you to have space saver arms so you can "reverse" a desk arm to make it effectively a full arm (cannot be done with a wrap around style). I would rather have the chair 3 to 4" more narrow and achieve the full length effect as I wrote in the paragraph above (or order them full to begin with). I like sport arms, except: 1. They are cumbersome to swing "out of the way" in cramped transfer situations (i.e. you must plan ahead). 2. If you remove the arm (instead of swinging it around out of the way), you have to have a place to put it (that is not in the way of your transfer- say to a car). 3. If you use a car topper wheelchair loader in the future they must be removed before the chair is loaded on to the topper. 4. If you travel by air, the arms MUST be stowed in your luggage (trust me- you will never see them again if left on the chair). 5. Unless a "clothing guard" is used (usually a removable solid insert going into a socket), you can put nothing next to you in the chair. No cell phone, no keys. Flip back arms have a built-in clothing guard. If you use a clothing guard with sport arms, you have just doubled the issues of #3 and #4.
  • MANUAL WHEELCHAIR "FAQ's": Q: What will a light weight wheelchair weigh? Cost? A: A good light weight wheelchair will weigh 26lbs or less (sometimes a lot less). To make it lighter, order it with quick-release axles. They can be put on most chairs (but not all). This will allow the rear wheels to be removed (takes 2 seconds- 1 second on each wheel) with the push of a button. The chair will now weigh in at about 18 lbs. Lightweight chairs will cost from $500 to $4,000+, depending on other features. A good wheelchair dealer, with a large selection, can help guide you in a proper purchasing decision. For example, if you are not playing sports, (and have no intention to), your price range should not go much higher than $1,200. It may be that your existing chair will be fine with quick release axles installed on it. You say you have an ultra-lite. If you are talking about the model made by Everest & Jennings, that came with quick release axles and weighs about 26lbs with the wheels on. If that is the case, and he still can't lift the chair (with the wheels off), then an external wheelchair carrier may be the ticket. These devices start at under $200 and go up to $400. Most require a trailer hitch (around $75 at Midas Muffler) because modern cars can't accept anything mounted on bumpers. The cheaper one will require someone to lift about 1/2 the weight of the chair straight up 1 foot. The more expensive require even less energy as they tilt down to the ground. All work on geometry (weight of the chair to assist) and not on electricity. Q: I have a friend with MS who uses a wheelchair when out and about (moderately mobile in-house). What light-weight, user-powered chairs would you recommend? A: The best way to get an "education" on what kind of wheelchairs are out there and what is best for a particular person is to visit several wheelchair dealers. Visit companies that have many wheelchairs on display, and talk to wheelchair users in your area to find the names of "good" dealers. Expect that the person using the chair will have to visit a couple of these dealers with you at a "second" visit. To answer your question "generally" about the types of wheelchairs: Some wheelchair users just can't propel themselves at all and want a wheelchair that is very light so that their companion" can lift it into the trunk of a car. These same people may have a need for a power wheelchair, but either don't want to travel with one, can't afford one (along with the van and lift required), or simply don't mind having someone else push them. The companion wheelchair is very light (approx 18 lbs) and inexpensive . An easy to propel manual wheelchair can cost from $300 up to $4,000 (no typo, that's four thousand bucks), depending on the weight and other features. As the price goes up, the weight goes down, along with getting the ability to adjust the chair to make it easier to push, steer, etc. Most (but not all) of these chairs are "sports chairs" and, as the name implies, are designed for wheelchair sports. While they may be easy to push, they are also easier to "tip over", may not have enough "mass" for a person (particularly an elderly person) to transfer easily into, and simply may not be comfortable for some people. They also require more service as the adjustments loosen. Their weight rarely goes below that of a companion chair (18 lbs) without removing the rear wheels, which many users don't want to be bothered with. All the information provided herein is Copyright © 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000, & 2001 Stuart L. Portner. All rights reserved. May be printed and reproduced for individual use, but may not be distributed without the permission of the author.
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