Recommended modifications for a type R with higher then stock psi (6+psi)

>>All of the modications listed for a stock JR psi type R, but with the following added<< NOTE: Boosting over the stock 5.5psi can be very harmful! I only recommend this modification to those who feel that tuning will not be an issue and that if someting were to go wrong, they will have a back-up. The highest boost I would recommend on stock type R internals and compression is 8psi. Anything higher then 8psi could cause exreme detionation, which will destroy the engine unless major tuning with a stand-alone ECU setup (Hondata) is used.

-J&S safeguard This unit is killer!!!! I highly recommend this unit for any application, however its critical to have when raising boost. This unit might cost as much as a good header, however this unit might save your engine's life is something fails. -Exhaust system (Any 2.5" for lower boost (under 8psi) or 3" piping for higher boost (8psi+) NOTE: 3" exhaust is VERY loud. Only get it if really needed.) For 3" get the Thermal Research Design exhaust. -Header (Kamikaze) It's a great brand if you’re going to put out some good whp numbers. NOTE: When using the Kamikaze system expect to get a custom test pipe, or muffler/cat made for it. Also this header is not street legal. A JDM header or anyother header will help, but will not produce as much power. -Test pipe (You will have find this one on your own. They work great when running high psi. NOTE: Test pipes are EXREAMLY ILLEGAL! Fines in excess of $3000 plus its a federal offence can happen if your caught. Yes it gives tons of power, but is it worth it to you? -Fuel Pump (Bosche, Endyn/Bosche, Walbro) The stock JR pump will not beable to handle that much boost for long periods. So by getting a new better pump you will increase your safety net. The pumps can get loud, but will help a lot with pumping the fuel you need. When using larger fuel injectors you are able to lower the fuel pressure which can make the stock or JR fuel pump last longer so a new one might not be needed. -FPR (Cartech, Vortech, etc...) These awesome units will allow you to fine tune your fuel needs when rasing the boost. Trust me these really work. If your gonna go with the larger injector route with a ECU setup, a new FPR might not be needed as badly. A B&M command flo would work just as fine. -Injectors (RC) Stock R injectors can handle up to 225whp with 7-8psi. However when going above that or running it for long periods of time, they will start to lock up and die. For average 220-240whp 310cc's are great. Anything above that I would get 370-440cc injectors and tune them with an ECU or fuel controlling device. -Cam Gears (TODA, Spoon) These work ok. They won’t really net whp, however they can help with tuning out overlap, and help the car run better. Do NOT get AEM. They are ok, however some tend to slip since they only use 3 bolts to secure themselves. Always use locktight! I have seen gains from 1-4whp in the mid and top when tuning these correctly. -Valve train Installing titanium retainers will help with causing less stress on the valve train itself. When installing new retainers, you will beable to rev above the stock redline safely if your car is equipped with an reprogrammed ECU. NOTE: Reving to or past the stock redline can cause extreme damage to the engine if your car is not tuned right.