5spdconversion

5spd tranny (duh!!) - make sure the tranny has the two side covers and the two sensors in it. The speed sensor is on the
passenger side and the reverse sensor is on the driver's side. You can use the speedometer cable from the suto tranny, but
you'll prolly be better off getting the lower section for an 5spd tranny. Mine broke within a year of the conversion.

rear main engine seal - if you haven't replaced yours recently, do it NOW!!!

rear transmission seal - cheap ''leak prevention' insurance

5spd driveshaft - prolly a good idea to change the carrier bearing now too. Be sure to align it properly when installing it too.

5spd ECU - try to get one from the same year Supra as yours

shifter - be sure it has all the rubber covers with it! Best time to do the short-shift mod as well!!!

shifter boot - new ones from Toyota are cheap

shifter bushings - there are two of them... 1 green and 1 white

clutch pedal

5spd brake pedal

5spd flywheel and bolts - have the flywheel machined and get NEW OEM flywheel bolts!!

clutch - get a good one to begin with.

clutch hub and snap rings - get these from Toyota. They're not too expensive!

clutch release fork and pin

clutch master cylinder - NEW OEM from Toyota!!!

slave sylinder - NEW OEM from Toyota

two hydraulic lines - either from a junk Supra or new from Toyota

brackets for the hydraulic lines

Before installing the tranny in the car, you'll need to cut about 1/2'' of metal from the shifter opening in
the chassis. You'll need to cut it on the armrest side of the hole. This will keep the tranny from hitting
the chassis and causing unnecessary noise and vibrations when driving down the road.

There are a few wires that will need to be spliced together so that the car will start and so you can have
your reverse lights. Wires will also need to be spliced together so that the power steering and ABS
brakes (if equipped) will work. The Toyota wiring manual can give you all the necessary info to get
these wires connected. There are some wires under the dash that will also need to be spliced so that the
clutch pedal has to be pushed in to start the motor. I chose not to do this right away because I needed
my car back on the road ASAP.

Be sure to bleed the clutch system VERY well before driving the car. Bleed it as if it were a brake
system, using the clear piece of hose on the end of the slave cylinder bleed valve and pumping the
clutch pedal. Get ALL the air out of the system for the best possible feel and performance.

Once the conversion is complete, turn the boost down and drive the car easily for the first 1000 miles so
you break in the clutch properly. Try not to slip the clutch either. You don't want to slip the clutch yet
as it will cause premature clutch failure. Change the tranny fluid at 500 mile intervals if it's a used
transmission that's been sitting for a while.