Surfed till night, then headed back to camp.  Had a couple of coronas, jammed to some local restaurant, and stuffed our faces with seafood for about $8 apiece (including beers). Day two in Rincon.  We heard there was supposed to be a big swell hitting today, so we headed to a spot called "wilderness".  Drove to where we thought it was and pulled the ultimate kook move.  It looked so good, about 10'  and no wind at all, and nobody out!  There were 8 or 10 guys checking it, but not paddling out, so we asked, "is this wilderness?"  "uh, yeah...(kook)". Well, we couldn't figure out why nobody was paddling out, so we grabbed our boards and hit it.  Paddling out, a little queasy from the coffee and donut, but ok.  first wave swings in.  A lot of people on the beach watching.  Hmmm...screw it. I'm in position, (Mike got caught a bit since his board was bigger) so I go.  A little bigger than I thought, closer to double overhead, but so clean.  Closing out at the end, so I pull out.  Mike takes the last wave of the set.  Then, it happens.  A big set coming in, and we're both caught.  First wave detonates about 20' in front of me.  Like a dumbass, I try to duckdive it.  This wave hit me so hard, I came up seeing stars.  I swear, just like bugs bunny.  Got my attention.  Eventually we get back out and have an unreal session.  After about an hour and a half we get some company, and three hours later the place is absolutely packed.

Wilderness

We decide to both get one in, and of course that means it takes forever to get one last one.  I just couldn't seem to outposition the crowd and find that one big one I wanted.  The sets were getting smaller, but there was an occasional fatty still coming through, and I wanted one.  Well, it took an HOUR to get a last wave.  I paddled completely up and down the break twice, probably a full mile.  I got caught inside so horribly that it took me 20 minutes to get back outside.  A lot of the guys my friend knows were on the beach, and they knew other people, and little did I know I had an audience. Finally a big set comes in.  I'm inside, so I stroke hard to get over that first one.  At the very last second, I decide to just go.  I spin in the lip, about one arm sorta paddles, and I freefall into this wave.  Honestly, I might make 1 wave out of 4 like this, but I pull it!  What I didn't know till later was that everyone on the beach was on their feet cheering!  This wave was such a big, fat wall, my board just chattering away.  And I got it on film.  I'm not sure which speck I am, but since nobody dropped in on me, I think I'm the guy on the left dropping in on someone.

Puerto Rico page 3