Audi Window Regulator Repair

Click on pix to enlarge. Second enlargement can also be done after enlarged pix comes up.

Audi 1988 5kq Rear Driver side window regulator Problem: window stuck in closed position (frozen motor due to rust) Pix #002 shows a typical problem for these regulators - broken cable guide which can cause the cable to slip off a pulley.

Fix for rusty motor, sand, clean, paint Detailed pix coming soon

Remove Cable end stop to remove the broken sleeve guide. Easily done with the Dremel tool. Cut a groove down to the cable stop on both sides. I use an Optivisor with 4x magnifiers and lots of light to see what you are doing. Grind a groove just short of the cable itself. Two pair of pliers will snap off the end-stop. The cable will be clean, undamaged and tightly wrapped..

Fix for broken sleeve guide 1/8" X 1/4" Hose Barb to MIP Adapter - available at Home Depot and Leowes - see below for details Electrical tape and shrink tubing compensate for the wider diameter of the Adapter Exactly two wraps of electrical tape are under the shrink tubing.

Cable sleeve compensation for extra internal length length of brass Adapter -  0.150 needs to be removed Dremel cut off wheel does quick work of shortening the sleeve. The inner friction sleeve was pulled out for the cutting operation.

Broken Cable Fix One pulley needs to be romoved in order to remove the window slider and cable. Note that the pulley shown is the wrong one. You need to remove the pulley on the end that has no cable stop. Grind off the rivet using Dremel cut off wheel. Note: Leaving rivet on the bracket for drilling and tapping operations is not helpful. Hard to position and hold, and rivet will spin. BTDT

Drill and Tap the wheel rivet for 6 X 1 metric bolt. You can use smaller bolt for easier drilling and tapping. The rivet is pretty hard steel. The rivet end will need some filing on the edges to fit back inside the mounting hole. Use bolt with washers. Cut off bolt end so only a thread or two is protruding. Use Locktite on bolt before installing

Hardware and cable is available at Home Depot and at Leowes. "Aircraft" cable is galvanized steel,  1/16" , very close to the original cable. Original cable = .066     Bike derailluer cable = .044 1/16" cable = .062        Bike brake cable = .058 Cables are easily cut with Dremel tool. Go very slowly and the cable end will remain intact.

For cable ends, bicycle spoke nipples are much easier to handle and modify, and cheap as hell. The spoke nipple is filed as shown to fit properly inside the take-up spool. The nipple insides was filed with the a fine ratfile to allow a snug fit for the cable. I crimped the cable in a vice. The nipple internal threads provide a good grip on the cable. I made a V shaped crimping adapter for the vice to provide a better crimp. More pix of tooling and procedures coming soon.