Being vegetarian in Thailand
could never be easier, especially on comparison with many other countries, like, say, Japan, where they got a peculiar penchant for putting fish in every dish including tea (sake chazuke).

First, abundance of fresh and cheap fruits and vegetables many of which do not even have names in English.

Second, Terawada Buddhism that is practiced in Thailand and particularly its Santi Asoke congregation encourage abstinence from consuming animal products.

Third, Sino-Thais (Thais of the Chinese descend) which comprise up to 25% of the Kingdom's population have long-established traditions of health-mindedness, vegan fasts and highly developed vegan cuisine.

The deep-rootedness of vegetarian traditions in the country can be demonstrated by the fact that the overwhelming majority of Thais is aware of the difference between vegans and vegetarians (now try ask your old ones if they know it!). Vegans and vegan food is called "jay" (pronounced in flat mid-tone) and vegetarians and vegetarian food are called "mangsawirat". However, the Thai concept of veganism is even stricter than the Western ones. In Thailand, all kinds of stimulating spices, onions, garlic, alcohol are excluded from the vegan diet. Sex is out of question, too.

Apart from the famous Vegetarian festival that falls on the beginning of October, you can get your vegetarian munches almost everywhere. Many department stores' food centres feature Chinese style (lots of tofu, tofu, tofu) stalls and if you say:"Chan kin jay" in any other food shop the chances are 9 out of 10 that you will not leave it unfed with your veggies.

The sad side of it is that in 6 cases out of those 10 you will be served "phat phak" ("fried vegetables") with plain rice. So much for the praised vatiety of Thai cuisine.

A word of warning:

• don't look for vegetarian food in stores that obviously specialize exclusively in smoked chicken, noodles (meat stock is inevitable) or something of the kind. The folks will be very disappointed if they cannot serve you your food (that famous Thai hospitality)
• fish sauce ("naam plaa") is the most common condiment in Thai cuisine and you are most likely to be served. It is of light brown colour and usually contains chopped chillies galore. Looks apppetising, but, alas, is made from our slaughtered friends from the sea. Ask for "sii iw" which is soy sauce.

A good alternative (apart from fruits for raw vegans can be "som tam" (in Thai) or "tam bak hung" (in Isaan Thai and Laotian) -- tear-jerkingly spicy papaya salad served with glutinous rice, peanuts and various sorts of plants that look very much like them weeds from your Auntie's kitchen-garden but are however rendered as "phak" ("vegetables") by Thais and are quite savoury and healthy.

Be careful to order your salad "baep jay" ("vegan style"), what means that they will not put there crabs ("puu"), fermented fish paste ("pa laa") or fish sauce("naam plaa"). Also see to it that they wouldn't yank a good tablespoonful of MSG in it (seems a common practice).

It may be handy to learn how to prepare this salad yourself. It's not that difficult, just remember how much and in what order of this and that is mixed to make it the yummiest, and next time you will surprise all Thais when you say "Ja tham eeng!" ("I'll manage myself!") and catch the pestil falling from the trembling hands of the bewildered "mae khaa" ("vendouress").

Salad is prepared by succeeding crashing of its ingredients in a mortar. One serving will cost you from 13 to 25 baht. Cheap and lots of fibre and protein.

Links:

List of vegan and vegan friendly restaurants in Bangkok.

Why We Are Vegans Illustrated

Beyond Vegetarianism: How to Permanently Eliminate "Colds/Flus" by Simple Dietary Change

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