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Gringo

H I S T O R I A S -- true tales told to the gringo

from M. in her apartment -- regarding the state prison in La Mesa.

My field work as a sociologist with the justice procurator, and my continuing study at Colegio de la Frontera, often take me into many fascinating social environments here in Tijuana. One of the most amazing and at the same time frightening -- espantoso, no? -- places I've ever seen debe que ser -- has to be -- the mini-society which exists within the walls of the state prison in La Mesa.

We passed through locked gate after gate until at last we were admitted (both by guards and by the inmates) into the central patio of the penetentiary.

Believe it or not, Daniel, it's like a small city inside there. Some of the inmates have their own little houses, where their families come into live with them. There are shops where you can buy food and supplies. Little hole-in-the-wall taco stands and sit-down restaurants -- nothing fancy, of course, but yes, some have tables and chairs -- or benches, rather. Women making tortillas, yes. And, of course, yes, also a shrine or chapel where you can say a prayer and light a candle. All of this social process spread around the courtyard like a town huddled around its plaza. A small fight broke out while we were there, but several of the men quickly stopped it, then even apologized to us. We Mexicans are so ridiculously courteous, sometimes I wonder what you gringos think of us -- you don't mind me calling that, do you?

No, I guess not. It's nothing like what you have in prisons on the other side of the line, no, nothing at all. But I've only seen your Hollywood movies, yes? And you don't know, do you?

Yes, I was told they have their drug dealers and prostitutes in there, too. Both men and women. No, I hope you never have to find out, either. No, I probably won't be going back. Incarceration is not my specialty. I only went as a one-time information tour. Part of our study of the justice system. Next month we are focussing on the courts and judges. No.

August 2002 UPDATE: in a military action, judicial forces (more than a thousand police and guards) this month seized control of the "pueblito" -- the "little town" inside the La Mesa State Prison, and shipped two thousand of the prisoners to the more "controlled" state prison at El Hongo outside of Tecate. Prisoners' families -- who had been living with them inside the walls -- were also evicted, and complain that now they will not be able to live together with their loved ones. According to newspaper reports, the "little town" was demolished after the prisoners were taken captive and shipped out. The idea of a "little town" controlled by inmates may sound "cute" but it was, according to Mexico's Human Rights Commission, the worst prison in the country. Anything, food, drugs, sleeping space, protection, could be bought and sold. God help you if you had no money and were weak. The jury is out on whether conditions actually will "improve" at La Mesa.