As a long-time player, I get asked many questions by many people - non-players, Robbie Newbie's, Wanna-be Airsmiths, and even some veterans.  Here is a list of some of the most commonly asked questions, and my answers.  If you have any questions, email me and I will try and answer them.  If they are good, I may even post them on here!

Isn't Paintball some para-military combat training thingy?
Who plays paintball?
Are there any female paintball players?
What do I wear to play paintball?
What are paintballs filled with?
How much does it COST to play paintball?
How do paintball markers work?
Does it hurt getting hit by a paintball?
I'm just starting out - what kind of marker should I buy?
The MOST important piece of equipment you'll ever buy.
CO2 vs. N2 (a.k.a. compressed air).
What is an "Anti-syphon" tank?
What is a "Powerfeed"?
What is the difference between "Open-bolt" and "Closed-bolt"?
What is an "Electro-pnuematic" paintball marker?
What should I upgrade first?
What is a "Venturi Bolt"?
What is an "expansion chamber"?
What is a "remote"?
What is meant by the term "Low Pressure"?
How do I know what kind of barrel to buy?
What is a "Regulator"?
Should I buy an Automag or an Autococker?
What is the difference between "Rec Ball", "Tournaments", and
    "Scenario Games"?
What are "Renegade" fields?
How come some markers are different colors?
What is the REAL deal with paint-to-barrel match?
MY take on the Rate-of-Fire controversy.
 
 

One question many paintballers are often asked, or an assumption made by many who have not played the sport, is that paintball is militaristic and war-like. This simply is not true.

We do not wear military clothing in imitation of soldiers. Combat boots are sometimes worn for the same reasons the military uses them – they are good for running in dirt, they protect your feet, and they offer ankle stability when running in rough terrain. We do not wear camouflage to imitate the military. Those who wear camouflage do so because they feel it gives them an edge blending in with their environment. If you go to a paintball field or tournament, you will, in fact, probably see more people wearing high top football cleats (even better traction than combat boots – and definitely more comfortable!), and the patterns of camouflage will most likely be very different than the patterns worn by our military. In fact, at most tournaments, camouflage is conspicuously absent. Players often prefer to opt for more colorful jerseys, just as other team sports wear their own colorful uniforms, to better identify all the members of the team.

One basic difference between war and paintball is the origin of the "conflict". War is a political event used to achieve political gains. The military is simply a tool. Paintball is a GAME, a SPORT. It is played for FUN! War is full of confusion, suffering, pain, and death. Paintball is ENTERTAINMENT. It is mental and physical thrill ride and challenge.

Many people confuse the image of paintball as being a military sport, teaching killing and violence. This simply is not true. What paintball teaches is the value of teamwork, creative problem solving, and fair play. Paintball is, at its most reduced level, a game of tag (albeit with greater range). Paintball in no way teaches killing or violence – in fact, many other sports like football and hockey teach more about violence than paintball. How? Simple. Physical contact is NOT allowed in paintball. At no time should one paintball player so much as lay a finger on an opponent. Football and hockey, especially, teach players to physically incapacitate their opponents. Paintballers only "tag" their opponents with a little gelatin ball full of paint.

Even the tactics of paintball and war are different. Place 5 seasoned soldiers in a paintball tournament against 5 seasoned paintballers and the soldiers probably wouldn't stand much of a chance. Reverse the situation and get a massacre. The tactics are THAT different. There are military organizations that discourage their soldiers from playing paintball because paintball teaches bad habits that can kill a soldier during combat.
 
 

One of the wonderful things about this sport is that ANYONE can play.  It doesn't matter what your gender is, what your age is, or what kind of physical shape you are - or aren't - in.  There is no such thing as a natural aptitude when it comes to paintball.  It doesn't matter how tall you are, or how much you can bench press, nobody cares what your time is in the 40, and you can be 100 pounds soaking wet, or 300 pounds stark naked.

So what kind of person plays paintball?  ALL kinds of people.  Statistically, Joe Paintballer is a white male, between 13 and 17 years of age.  Remember what Mark Twain said about statistics?  There are 3 kinds of lies, "lies, white lies, and statistics".  Go check out a local field, and you will see a lot more than the statistical average paintball player.  You will find students, lawyers, doctors, businessmen (and business women), carpenters, and so on.  Often a child will talk their parents into trying the sport, and maybe their siblings.  Every field has a veteran who has been playing the sport since it began in the mid 1980's.  By now, of course, that player is probably in their 30's or 40's, but don't count them out just yet!  While there are no physical aptitudes that make one excel in the sport, experience is what separates the men from the boys, as they say.  Two or three experienced players can easily take out two or three times that many newbies.

Remember, everybody starts off as a newbie, even the legends like Bob Long and Bud Orr were newbies once.  If you want to do better, you have to play more.  The more experience you get, the better player you will become.
 
 

There is a misconception that women are not welcome in this sport, or that women can't be good players.  This is a lie!  There are professional teams, like the Iron Maidens and the Black Widows, who are 100% female!  If you go to a tournament, you see will plenty of women out on the fields, slinging paint with the men.  Maybe adolescent males, filled with machismo, can't deal with women playing this sport - why?  Is it because the women beat them?  And don't think it's teen-age girls whose boyfriends have dragged them along (although there are plenty of those).  These women take the sport VERY seriously, and some of these women have been involved for 10 years or more!  From my point of view, there is no reason why a woman can't PLAY paintball, and there's no reason why a woman can't be GOOD at paintball.  Why do I say this?  Because I've fallen victim to some of these women!  I'm not ashamed, I'll say it - YEAH!  A GIRL KICKED MY BUTT!  And to all you teen age boys who think you can beat any girl, give someone like Jackie Dollack or Tracy "Ice" Roberts a call - and be prepared to eat a lot of paint!
 
 

One thing that many players going to play for their first time have questions about is what kind of clothing to wear.  My answer is wear whatever you find comfortable for running and sliding, and that you don't mind getting dirty.  A pair of jeans is perfectly fine.  Many players wear camouflage pants - they are baggy enough to allow free movement, they have reinforced knees to slide on, and nobody really cares if they get dirty.  My only recommendation is to not wear shorts.  As for a top, I recommend a sweatshirt or a couple of layers of tee-shirts.  Again, long sleeves, not short sleeves.  For males, I strongly recommend wearing a cup.  It used to be that I didn't wear a cup, until I took a shot to my... well... down THERE.  Since that day I have, and will always continue to, wear a cup.  For females, you might want to consider a chest protector.  There are two kinds - hard plastic ones like are worn in motocross, and soft shell ones made of cloth and neoprene.  For shoes, I generally recommend something with ankle support if you are going to be playing on uneven terrain.  I personally prefer high top football cleats - great traction AND support for my ankles!  Almost everyone wears something on their head when they play.  It can be a bandana, a baseball cap, or even a ski cap, but I do recommend something.  The same with gloves - getting shot in a finger can sting!  The last place where I feel you should wear an extra something is your neck.  I have been shot in the throat from point blank range, and it is NOT fun.  If you want to go out and buy one of the commercially available neoprene neck guards, they work well (if your neck is small enough - they don't fit around my neck).  Failing this, a bandana tied around you neck, with the knot in BACK, is better than nothing.
 
 

So, what kind of paint is in a paintball?  Well, it's not really PAINT.  First, the outer shell of a paintball is made from gelatin, the same gelatin as is used to make capsules for cold pills and other kinds of medication.  The fill is a non-toxic, bio-degradable, saccharine based goo.  Most paintball stains wash out, but some RP Shrerer paint (like Premium Gold, Marbelizer, and All-Star) have a tendency to leave some kind of permanent stain.  For something made of saccharine I'll tell you one thing - they taste TERRIBLE!
 
 

The biggest drawback to paintball is the cost.  Make no mistake, it is EXPENSIVE!!!!  To go to a professionally run field, rent equipment, and play for the morning, expect to spend no less than $100.  Buying your own equipment will help soften the blow - a little.  It is possible to buy a decent paintball marker (which means it is NOT made by Brass Eagle) for about $100.  Add a CO2 tank for $30, and a mask for $50, and you've dropped close to two bills.  However, if you are spending $25 to rent equipment, you'll make up for this in the first 4 times you play.  Let me say, however, that paintball can be more than just casual fun - it can be an addiction and an obsession.  You can easily spend another $300+ in after market parts for your new $100 marker.  And eventually you will want to upgrade, which is not cheap.  Be warned that you can pay in excess of $2500 for a truly unique, custom-built marker.
 
 

For anyone who wants to understand how a marker works, you better go back and brush up on your high school physics and chemistry classes.  All those laws about actions and reactions, inertia, Boyle's Law, Charles' Law, partial pressure, phase changes, etc. etc. are important to REALLY understand what is going on.

For those of you who DON'T want to relive high school, here are the basics:

The propellant is contained in a tank (or "bottle").  If it is CO2, it is stored as a liquid.  If it is N2 or compressed air (which is 80% N2 anyway), it is stored as a gas.  Either way, the tank is pressurized.  The propellant (either evaporated CO2 or N2) enters the marker in the air chamber.  One end of the valve chamber is sealed.  the other end contains a poppet valve (which is basically a cylinder with a hole drilled through it, and a pin going through the hole).  When the trigger is pulled, a hammer (piece of metal) is released.  This hammer is pushed forwards TOWARDS the air chamber and the valve by a spring.  The hammer hits the pin in the center of the poppet valve, pushing it backwards.  This opens the valve.  The hammer is attached to the bolt, and as the hammer moves forward, so does the bolt.  The bolt comes in contact with a paintball which is resting in the marker's chamber, and pushes it into the breech (the end of the barrel).  When the hammer and bolt have moved all the way forward, this is when the valve is opened.  The propellant travels through the valve.  Most of the propellant is channeled through the bolt, where it comes into contact with the paintball and shoots it out (like a spitball through a straw).  Some of the propellant is channeled backwards against the hammer.  This causes the hammer to move backwards, re-cocking the gun.  This also allows the poppet valve to close.

That is basically how 75% of all paintball markers work.  For the other 25%, I can explain how they work, but I only have 5MB of webspace here...
 
 

Everybody is afraid of getting hit the first time they play this sport.  It is mostly fear of the unknown - if the pain from getting hit were unbearable, nobody would play!  So does it hurt?  Sometimes.  As a general rule, the closer the person who shoots you is, the more it will hurt.  Also, direct hits hurt more than glancing hits.  Hits on exposed skin or poorly protected skin hurt more than hits on padded areas.  Loose clothes tend to absorb more of the impact than tight clothes.  In a most worst case scenarios, a paintball hit will only hurt about as much as getting snapped with a rubber band.  I have seen paintballs break skin, however, and they commonly leave ugly bruises and welts.  When you are out playing and your adrenaline is pumping, though, you probably won't feel much!
 
 

So, you've tried it out, liked it, and now want to buy your own marker.  Which one do you choose?  Unfortunately, there is no easy answer to this.  In general, buy the most comfortable marker you can afford.  How comfortable the marker feels in your hands should be the MOST important consideration you make.  After this, there are several questions to answer.

The first question is how much do you think you will playing?  This is the first question because the amount you play will influence how quickly you improve.  At some point, you will have improved enough that you will want to upgrade your marker.  Realizing this BEFORE you buy your first marker can make a difference because there are really two ways of looking at upgrading.

The first possibility is upgrading your present marker with after market parts.  Some markers are more upgradable than others.  If you feel that upgrading your present marker will be your route, you should buy an initial gun that supports upgrades.  Most of the stacked-double-tube markers (like the Spyder, Pirhana, Bruizer, Spitfire, F-4 Illustrator, Diamond GT, etc. etc. etc.) have many after market accessories available, and they are easy to take apart, clean, and re-assemble.

The second possibility is buying a new, higher quality, marker.  The bottom line is that an upgraded entry level marker will probably only perform as well as a stock, mid level marker (like a 'Mag or a 'Cocker).  If you think that your option will be to purchase a new marker rather than upgrade your existing one, you needn't be so concerned with the upgradability of your first marker.  Many of the single-tube markers (any Tippmann marker, most of the Indian Creek markers, and the Sheridan XTS) are great, rugged entry level markers, but don't have a lot of after market accessories available.  Unlike the stacked-tube design, however, they are usually more complicated to take apart and put back together.

The second question is how much can you afford?  Automags are good, reliable markers that are simple enough for a newbie to use, but they cost about 3 times as much as an entry level marker.  I do not recommend that any newbie buy an autococker - they are simply too complicated and too easy to mess up for someone who doesn't know how to work on them.

I DO NOT recommend buying any marker made of plastic, or manufactured by Brass Eagle.  Most Brass Eagle markers, while being extremely inexpensive, are horrible markers.  They are not manufactured to tight tolerances, they have cheap parts, and they break down frequently.  They are difficult to repair, and Brass Eagle has a customer service department that is notoriously un-helpful.  My recommendation is to never purchase anything with the Brass Eagle name on it.
 
 

When you buy a new marker, you often can purchase a package deal.  The package includes the marker, an elbow, a hopper, a tank, and a mask.  For a couple of extra dollars you can make upgrades.  The first upgrade you should make is your mask.  Your mask is the most important piece of paintball equipment you will ever buy.  Think about it - you have 5 senses.  4 of them are exclusively on your head - your eyes, your ears, your nose, and your mouth.  Protecting your head, therefore, should be your paramount concern.  I don't want to scare anybody, but paintballs can cause serious injury to your head.  A paintball can easily destroy an eye.  I have seen people who have had their lips split open by paintballs, and I have seen a paintball go right through a guy's cheek.  Paintballs can rip open nostrils, and can cause damage to the cartilage in your ears.  All of these injuries can be easily prevented by wearing a proper mask.  A good mask covers your ears, and wraps around your face so that no paintball can get in behind the mask and hit your face.  I feel the best masks out there today are the JT Spectra 260 and JT Flex-7 masks.  In my opinion, they are the most comfortable, provide maximum protection, and also provide a wide field of vision.

Also, when buying a new mask, spend the extra money for a double pane thermal lens.  These lenses do not fog up like the regular, single pane lenses.  If thermal lenses are not available for the mask you buy, purchase a product called Combat Vision.  Combat Vision is a piece of transparent plastic that adheres to the inside of your lens, and effectively makes a single pane lens into a double pane lens.

As a note, paintball lenses are not designed for impact from a paintball at ranges closer than 20 feet.  This does not mean the lens will fail if you get shot from under 20 feet, but it does mean that after getting shot from that range the structural integrity of the lens is destroyed, and the lens MUST BE REPLACED!  Also, immediately replace a lens at any time if you notice any cracks in the lens itself.  Never clean your lenses with any product not designed exclusively for paintball lenses, unless you are using nothing but water.  Most detergents contain chemicals which can weaken the plastic lens and make them more likely to fail.  I recommend getting a spray bottle and filling it with water to use on the field.  If you want a detergent, there is a product called PLEXUS which is specially designed for paintball lenses.  Paintball lenses scratch VERY easily.  I recommend wiping your lenses with either a special cloth which you can buy especially for that purpose, or a low lint, single ply toilet tissue (Scott tissue usually works very well).
 
 

There are essentially two types of propellant used in paintball.  The first, and most common, is Carbon Dioxide (CO2).  The second is Nitrogen (N2) or Compressed Air.  Nitrogen and Compressed Air are nearly synonymous, as Compressed Air is composed of 80%-90% N2.

Carbon Dioxide is the most common propellant as it is the cheapest.  A 20oz. CO2 tank costs around $50, and can provide up to 2000 shots (the general rule of thumb is that a person can get 100 shots per ounce of CO2).  Refills for a 20oz. tank run about $4-$6.  By comparison, N2 tanks average about $300 (although the cheapest ones can be bought for about $180, and the most expensive ones are around $500), have considerably less shots, and at a professionally run field, can cost between $9 and $20 to fill.  So, what are the benefits and detriments of each system?

CO2 is stored as a liquid in an aluminum or Chrome-Moly tank.  The liquid CO2 actually boils in the tank, creating evaporated, or gaseous, CO2.  This CO2 gas is what powers the marker.  CO2's biggest benefits are it's cost.  Paying $25-$50 for a tank and $2-$6 for a fill makes it much more cost effective than N2.  CO2's ability to provide such a large number of shots per fill make it especially attractive to Renegade players who do not have access to air refills at their fields.  CO2 has a fairly large number of detriments, however.

CO2 is greatly affected by the weather, mostly the temperature and barometric pressure.  Most paintball markers rely on CO2 in it's gaseous form to work.  As the temperature drops, the CO2 boils less and less, producing less and less CO2 gas.  When the temperature drops below 40 or 50 degrees, the liquid CO2 doesn't boil well at all, and lets the liquid CO2 enter the marker.  This liquid CO2 can make a marker shoot hot and erratic, freeze O-rings, and uses up the CO2 faster than gaseous CO2.  In fact, when a CO2 bottle is connected to a marker via a bottom-line set up, liquid CO2 can enter the marker at ANY temperature, causing the same problems.  CO2 is also especially prone to "shoot-down".  Shoot-down is when the velocity of successive paintballs drops during rapid fire.  This is caused when the marker uses up the CO2 gas faster than the boiling CO2 liquid can create it, which drops the pressure in the tank and causes velocity to drop.  CO2 is also affected by barometric pressure.  As the outside ambient pressure changes, it affects the pressure of the gaseous CO2 in the tank.  The results can produce a gun whose velocity is extremely inconsistent, with changes of +/- 50 fps in the span of one game.  This can be disastrous in a tournament, where players are docked points for hot markers.  Automags, in particular, are very finicky with regards to CO2, as it can easily freeze the several O-rings in the valve and cause the marker to "freeze-up", or stop working.

N2 is stored in it's gaseous form in an aluminum tank wrapped with carbon fiber, or in the new steel tanks.  It is stored at a much higher pressure than CO2, usually 3000psi to 4500psi.  The pressure is reduced by a regulator on the bottle which connects to the marker.  Some N2 bottles have regular ASA threads, others require a much different set-up where the tank is connected to the marker through hoses, and pipes the gas directly into the air chamber.  As I said earlier, the main disadvantage of N2 is the cost.  Unfortunately, this cost is not in the tank itself, but in the regulator that is connected to the tank.  Some tanks have pre-set regulators, which reduce the output air pressure to a set 850psi to 950psi.  The more expensive tanks have adjustable regulators which allow the player to determine the output pressure.

N2's advantages are that in performance, it is the opposite of CO2.  Whereas CO2 is very inconsistent, N2 is extremely consistent.  As the air is stored in the tank as a gas, the pressure inside the tank has nothing to do with the rate at which a liquid boils, and the regulator works very well at keeping a constant, uniform output pressure.  There is no possibility of running liquid with N2, either.  Many of the more advanced markers, most notably the Automag RT and Angel, run off on N2 ONLY, as they require that consistancy of pressure and impossibility of going liquid in order to function.  One advantage N2 has over CO2 is that the tanks are very easy to refill at Renegade fields.  N2 tanks can be refilled by a simple Scuba tank.  It costs approximately $3-$5 to have a Scuba tank filled, and the amount of air in a Scuba tank goes a long way, actually dropping the cost of using N2.  Thus, even though one full tank may last only one game, it is easy to play for an entire day off of one $3 Scuba tank fill.  Unfortunately, Scuba tanks cost in excess of $100 each, and you must be a certified Scuba diver to purchase and refill Scuba tanks.

Often, only the more advanced players, or those with very deep pockets, run N2.  CO2 is really the propellant of choice among MOST paintball players.
 
 

An anti-syphon tank is a special kind of CO2 tank designed to prevent liquid CO2 from entering a marker when the tank is set up back-bottle.  An anti-syphon tank has a metal (usually brass) tube INSIDE it, which points towards the top of the tank, which prevents liquid CO2 from entering it.  To work properly, an anti-syphon tank is set up for an individual marker, as the threads on all markers are not identical.  What is the top of the tank on one marker may be the bottom on another.  This means that syphon tanks cannot be switched between markers, making them unreasonable for people who own more than one marker.  If, however, you only own one marker, and it is set up to run back-bottle, anti-syphon tanks are strongly recommended.
 
 

Most new, open-bolt, blowback markers use what is called a "powerfeed".  A powerfeed is a tube which runs diagonally across the top of a marker, and connects the hopper elbow and the feed port on the marker.  They help prevent misfeeds and chopped balls, and they can increase the feed rate of the marker.  The action of an open-bolt, blowback marker is such that, when fired, air will exhaust UP and OUT the feed port.  If your hopper was connected directly to your marker WITHOUT a powerfeed, this blast of exhaust air would push the paintballs in the feed port back into the hopper.  The balls would then have to fall back down the feed port and into the chamber of the marker.  A powerfeed prevents this.  When the exhaust goes up the feed port the paintballs cannot be pushed back into the hopper, which reduces the distance the paintball has to fall to get into the marker.  During rapid fire, a non-powerfeed marker chops balls because the paintballs cannot feed into the chamber fast enough.  A marker with a power feed allows the balls to enter the marker much faster, and reduces the possibility of chopped balls.
 
 

The terms open- and closed-bolt refers to the position of the bolt when the marker is cocked and ready to fire.  In an open-bolt marker (which probably make up 80% of the markers produced), the bolt is in the "open", or rearward, position.  In a closed-bolt marker, the bolt is in the "closed", or frontward, position.  Closed-bolt markers are supposedly more accurate and have better range than open-bolt markers.  There are relatively few closed-bolt markers on the market, the most notable being the Autococker, Angel, and Shocker.  All pumpguns are also closed-bolt markers.
 
 

Electro-pneumatic markers are the newest markers out today.  Traditional markers operate on a complex system of springs, levers, and poppet valves.  Springs push the hammer and bolt which impacts the poppet valve and lets a burst of air enter the marker to fire the paintball.  When cocked, the hammer is held in place by a series of levers and springs, which retract and release the hammer when the trigger is pulled.

The new electro-pneumatic markers work off of computer controlled solenoid valves, micro-switches, and the pressure of the air in the marker.  In short, when the trigger is pulled it activates a micro-switch.  This micro-switch is connected to a computer, which in turn controls the solenoid valves.  Electricity from a battery enters the solenoid valve and creates an electro-magnetic field, which causes the solenoid to open, allowing the burst of air to enter the marker and propel the paintball.  Solenoid valves are much faster than springs and levers, allowing a higher rate of fire than a traditional marker could accomplish.  The computers can be programmed, allowing for a specific number of shots to be fired when the trigger is pulled.  For instance, a computer can be programmed to full-automatic (as long as the trigger is pulled, the marker will continue to fire), burst (a number of paintballs, maybe 3, 5, or 6 will be fired each time the trigger is pulled), or ramp (the faster the trigger is pulled, the more paintballs are fired.  For instance, if the trigger is pulled 1 time per second, the marker fires 1 paintball, if the trigger is pulled 2 times per second, the marker fires 3 paintballs, if the trigger is pulled 3 times per second, the marker fires 5 paintballs, etc. etc.).

Some "electric" markers are not TRULY electro-pneumatic, they simply have an electronic trigger.  The internals of the marker are the same as in a traditional marker, but the levers and springs in the trigger have been replaced with computer-controlled solenoids and micro-switches.  When the trigger is pulled, it activates a computer which activates a solenoid which releases the hammer in the same manner as a traditional marker.  These markers do fire faster than traditional, mechanical markers, but they are not as complicated (or expensive) as true electro-pnuematic markers.
 
 

Once you have bought your marker and played with it for a while, you will probably decide that you want to do some upgrades to your marker.  But what should you upgrade first?  Assuming that you want increased performance - mostly accuracy and range - you are really looking at only two possibilities, a new bolt or a new barrel.

All things being equal, I recommend saving up and buying BOTH at the same time.  If, however, this is not a possibility, I recommend buying a new bolt first.  If your marker does not have a TRUE "venturi" bolt (and 90% of stocks bolts are NOT venturi bolts - this includes Spyder bolts), that is what you should buy.  Your next purchase should be a new barrel.  See the sections on "Venturi Bolts" and "Barrels" for an explanation of each of them.
 
 

The term "venturi" bolt refers to a paintball bolt that has many small ports through which the air moves rather than one large hole.  The theory is that this dispersed air flow will increase your accuracy and range by removing uneven air movement around the paintball, as well as decrease ball breaks in the marker or barrel by more evenly distributing the pressure around the paintball, creating more of a "cushion" than a "pop".  This cushion also helps in accuracy and range because it tends to distort the paintball less when it goes through the barrel.  This is all true.  A venturi bolt is probably the single most important part that contributes to range and accuracy in a marker.  So why is the term "venturi" bolt a misnomer?  A true "venturi" bolt is the bolt with only one hole - somehow the terms got switched.
 
 

An expansion chamber is a device that is supposed to allow liquid CO2 to expand into gaseous CO2 before it enters your marker, and is supposed to prevent markers from running liquid and improve performance in cold weather.  Expansion chambers usually have a number of chambers through which the liquid moves and expands.  Think of an expansion chamber as a series of tubes nested inside each other.  Each tube has a small hole in it that leads from it to the next tube.  The idea is that in order for liquid to enter the gun, all the tubes must fill up with liquid, which is a remote possibility.  Where one or two tubes MAY fill up, the remaining tubes will not, which means that only the gaseous CO2 will enter the gun, even in cold weather.

That's the theory, at least.  In reality, expansion chambers are much more useful as foregrips than to prevent liquid from entering the gun.  In my opinion, expansion chambers only marginally improve cold weather performance, and I have seen plenty of markers with expansion chambers run liquid.  It is my personal belief that a remote works much better at preventing liquid CO2 from entering a marker than an expansion chamber.
 
 

A remote is simply a high pressure hose, usually wrapped in stainless steel, which goes between a marker and its tank.  They are usually about 42 inches in length.  They allow a player to store his tank in a pack on his back instead of connecting it directly to the marker.  The benefits of running remote are that it makes your marker lighter, and usually more maneuverable.  A back-bottle marker running remote is much shorter, and easier to swing right and left.  A verticle-bottle marker running remote is more balanced, and easier to move up and down.  The downsides to remotes are that they can easily get tangled in brush or around barricades, and you must remove your pack to put down your marker (I have seen many players running remote for the first time who put their marker down and walk off, only to find that they are dragging their marker behind them by the remote because the tank is still in their pack).
 
 

In my opinion, the term "low-pressure", and all the products which are sold to presumably lower the pressure of a marker, are simply a conspiracy by the paintball manufacturers to create new products with absolutely no value and trick us into buying them.

The theory behind low-pressure SOUNDS good - lowering the pressure of your marker will increase air efficiency because, of course, if the pressure is lower, you are using less air.  Low pressure is also supposed to further increase the "cushion" of air that is produced by venturi bolts.

This all a lie!  First of all, if you COULD lower the pressure on your marker, it may increase the cushion, but it won't increase your efficiency.  Why not?  Consider it this way - your marker needs a certain number of air molecules to exit the valve in order to re-cock and fire the paintball.  If you lower the pressure of the marker, this means there are fewer air molecules in the air chamber.  The marker, however, stills needs the SAME number of molecules to work (for arguments sake, let's say it needs 1,000,000 molecules to work properly).  In a normal, high-pressure marker, let's say there are 5,000,000 air molecules in the air chamber.  When the valve is opened, 1,000,000 of them escape before the valve closes.  In a low-pressure marker, let's say there are only 3,000,000 air molecules in the air chamber.  The marker still needs 1,000,000 molecules to work, so when the valve is opened, it stays open LONGER allowing 1,000,000 molecules to escape before it closes.  Either way, each shot still uses 1,000,000 air molecules.  The only difference between a high-pressure marker and a low-pressure marker is the amount of time the valve stays open.  The actual AMOUNT of air used in each shot is the same.

Second of all, none of the low-pressure products out there actually LOWER the pressure of your marker!  The idea about low-pressure chambers was extrapolated from a chemical principle known as Boyle's Law.  Boyle's law states that the air pressure in a closed container, assuming a constant temperature and assuming that no air is added or removed from the container, is inversely proportional to the volume of the container.  In normal words, this means that if you increase the volume of a sealed air chamber, the pressure inside the chamber will drop.  The idea behind low pressure chambers is that they increase the volume of your marker's air chamber, and should, thus, cause the pressure to drop.  This is not true because the air chamber on your marker is NOT SEALED.  Your air chamber is open to your CO2 or N2 tank.  In a paintball marker, the air chamber fills with air until an equilibrium is reached between the pressure in the air chamber and the pressure in the tank.  If the pressure in the tank is 1000psi, then the pressure in the valve chamber will be 1000psi.  If you expand the size of the air chamber (by adding a low-pressure chamber), the pressure in the air chamber will STILL equal that 1000psi that is in your tank.  The only way to lower the pressure in the air chamber is to change the pressure of the air that enters the marker, and this requires the use of a regulator.  With a regulator, the size of the air chamber is inconsequential when it comes to determining pressure.

Thirdly, why would anyone really WANT to lower the pressure of their marker?  Every marker is designed to run at a specific pressure, and no less.  For most open-bolt, blowback markers this is around 900psi (+/- 50 psi).  Lowering the pressure beyond this will result in a loss of velocity certainly, and could even result in your marker not having enough power to re-cock itself.  Since lowering the pressure of your marker will not increase your air efficiency and can be so detrimental to the performance of your marker, why would anyone want to do it?  I guess the only reason is because paintball manufacturers and retailers say players "need" one!  No player "needs" a low-pressure chamber or low-pressure valve, so I can only deduce that this is an attempt by the manufacturers and retailers to make us spend more of our money on their products...
 
 

When it comes to after market barrels, there are more barrels available than markers!  How do you know which one to choose?  You first need to determine WHY you want a new barrel.  Do you want one for better range and accuracy?  Do you want a barrel that is quieter than the one you have?  One that is shorter than the one you have?

The most obvious difference between barrels is porting.  Porting is holes that are drilled in the barrel.  These ports do two things - they quiet the gun and increase accuracy (to a point).  By slowing releasing the air behind the paintball, they quiet the "pop" that non-ported barrels have, and they also decrease the amount of turbulence behind a paintball when it exits the barrel and the gases that were behind it expand across the surface of the paintball.  However, if too much of these gases are allowed to exit, or exit too soon, the paintball will actually lose velocity and range.

Another difference between barrels in whether or not they are rifled.  A rifled barrel is a barrel that has internal swirls INSIDE it, which impart a spin on the paintball.  Often, many people incorrectly use the term "rifling" to mean a barrel with it's ports in a spiral pattern, but these are not truly rifled barrels.  In my opinion, rifled barrels do not work.  I believe that the best way to make a paintball fly further and more accurate is by REDUCING the spin on it.  When a paintball spins it creates lift.  No paintball is truly round, and all paintballs have a seam.  Uneven airflow over these uneven surfaces and across the seam creates lift, which causes the paintball to veer off to the left or right or up or down.  While there is no way to totally eliminate the lift created by a paintball, I believe that a rotating or spinning paintball creates more lift than a non-spinning one.  Having said that, I have found that with most rifled barrels, there IS a point where they seem to work fairly well - two points, actually.  For most velocities, I find that rifled barrels DO cause paintballs to veer off course.  There seem to be two points, however, where this does not happen.  One point is around 250-275fps, the second point is well over 300fps.  If you can find that point with your barrel, you may achieve great success with it!

Another difference between barrels is the material they are made of.  The vast majority of barrels are made out of aluminum, but stainless steel barrels are also fairly common.  Many older barrels are made out of brass.  Newer barrels have came out that are made of ceramic or carbon fiber.  My opinion is that the stainless steel barrels are too heavy.  The brass barrels can be nice, as the brass is soft enough that the barrel can polished to a mirror finish, but they are very easy to scratch and dent.  The ceramic and carbon fiber barrels are supposed to be "self cleaning", meaning that if you break a ball in the barrel you do not need to squeegee it, just shoot a few paintballs through it and it will clean itself.  I have found that the carbon fiber barrels do not do a bad job of this, but I have not seen any evidence that ceramic barrels work at all in this regard.  Both the ceramic and carbon fiber barrels are fairly light, however, which can make them a good choice.  My favorite material for barrels is aluminum.  It is soft enough to be polished, its anodizing does a good job resisting scratches and can be in any color or pattern, and it is fairly light.

The bore (or inside diameter) of a barrel can be very important, but that will be covered later on.  This leaves length as the final attribute to discuss.  The first rule thumb is that the higher the operating pressure of the marker, the shorter the barrel should be.  This means that most open-bolt markers should have short barrels, while autocockers and electrics can get away with longer barrels.  The overall length of a barrel affects its range and its accuracy.  In general, the longer a barrel is, the more accurate it will be.  Unfortunately, a paintball only accelerates through the first 6 or 8 inches of the barrel, so any length beyond that simply creates friction.  This friction slows the paintball down and reduces your range.  In general, a balance must be reached.  You need length for accuracy, but length reduces your range.  Most people settle for a medium-length barrel (12"-14" long), knowing they will be sacrificing a little bit of BOTH range and accuracy.
 
 

Regulators are devices which "regulate" pressure.  In general, they reduce pressure, as well as keep it uniform and consistent.  They work because they have several springs inside them, and the amount of pressure these springs put against a series of metal disks changes the amount of pressure they allow into a marker.

Most regulators are only useful in guns that truly work on low pressure (400psi or so.  This is really only some autocockers, angels, and other electric markers).  When the output from an N2 tank is about 900psi, a regulator can lower that pressure to 400psi.  Some regulators work well with CO2, making inconsistent CO2 more predictable, but liquid CO2 can adversely affect some regulators, freezing their internals.
 
 

Paintball is home to one of the longest running and most hotly debated controversies - which is better, Automags or Autocockers?  Ask a 'Mag owner, and he will say Automags are better.  Ask a 'Cocker owner, and he will say Autocockers are better.  So which is truly the better marker?  The answer is either one.

Automags were originally designed for speedball, and as such are more compact and lighter.  They are one of the easiest markers to maintain, and need relatively few after market parts to be competitive.  The Automag RT is simply an awesome machine, and that's taking it right out of the box!  The RT is capable of firing 26 rounds per second (in theory, of course, because no one can pull the trigger that fast).  Automags do have their down sides, however.  First of all, 'Mags were really designed to be run off of N2, and while they can operate off of CO2 (except the RT which is N2 only), they often can experience "freeze up" during rapid firing.  Freeze up is a situation where the O-rings inside the marker swell up due to a drop in temperature, and the marker refuses to work.  There are many after market barrels for 'Mags available, but you will pay an addition $10 for a 'Mag barrel versus any other barrel due to the fact that 'Mag barrels are not threaded like other markers, but have a groove which locks them in place.  Another thing about 'Mags that most people do not realize is that your rate of fire is limited.  While in theory an Automag can fire as fast as you can pull the trigger, the stock valve on a 'Mag can only recharge about 5 times a second, capping your rate of fire there.  In recent years, more and more after market products, especially internals, have become available for Automags, but for the most part there are relatively few ways to truly customize your marker.  Classic 'Mags, Automag RT's, and Minimags have steel bodies, which cannot be anodized.  The Micromag does have an aluminum body, which can be anodized, but customized milling is very limited.  If you want a quality marker that needs little maintenance and performs well, but cannot be thoroughly customized, then an Automag is right for you!

Where Automags are simple and there is little customization that can be done to them, Autocockers are the exact opposite.  Before the advent of electronic markers, 'Cockers were the most complicated markers on the market.  An Autococker is really a pumpgun that has an "auto-cocking" mechanism added to it to make it a semi-automatic.  This auto-cocking mechanism is fairly complicated, requiring an additional regulator, 3-way valve, pneumatic cylinder (or "ram"), lots of little hoses, and several connecting rods.  These additional pieces mean there are more parts that can be customized.  The rectangular aluminum body can be milled easily, and anodizes beautifully.  If you want a marker that you can not only customize into your own personal "statement", as well as literally turn into a piece of art, then look to a 'Cocker!  Autocockers do have their down sides, though.  It is often said that 'Cockers need constant work, and being so complicated, you pretty much need a degree in astro-physics to do the work yourself.  Autocockers rely on being "timed" to work correctly.  An Autococker has three distinct "steps" to shoot a paintball and re-cock.  If the timing of these events is off, the marker will not work.  The best thing to do with a 'Cocker is to take it to a professional and get it timed, after that DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING!  In the old days, 'Cockers had to be timed every time they were used, now they come timed right out of the box and will work fine - until you start upgrading.  For the most part, I do not recommend adding upgrades to your 'Cocker yourself.  Every little thing you upgrade on the marker - with the exception of the bolt and barrel - affects the timing.  The sheer amount of parts on an Autococker that CAN be upgraded, added to the fact that you will probably need to pay someone else to the work, means that an Autococker will be a very expensive marker, indeed.  For a non-electric marker, however, the performance of an Autococker cannot be beat.  They are one of the most accurate markers available, and, with the new "flatline" barrel, they have the longest range of any marker available today.  Unlike the 'Mag, they can truly shoot as fast as you can pull the trigger.  In fact, you can even have your Autococker upgraded to an electronic trigger, and I have heard of people achieving 10 - 12 shots per second with one.  If you want a marker that has perhaps the best performance available today, have lots and lots of cash to burn, or want a marker that you can truly customize and turn into a one-of-a-kind machine, then an Autococker is what you want!
 
 

There are three basic kinds of paintball - "Rec Games", "Tournaments", and "Scenario Games".  Rec games, or "Recreational Games", are the most common.  Rec paintball is simply paintball for fun.  There are no limits on the number of players to a side, and they are mostly low-key and friendly.  Tournaments are organized paintball competitions.  There are entry fees, limits on the number of players, limits on the kinds of markers you can use, and a whole book of rules which must be followed.  Teams (usually 3-man, 5-man, or 10-man teams) compete and earn points.  The top point getters in a particular tournament enter the finals, the winners of which can get some pretty expensive prizes - from new markers to new cars.  Tournaments are high stress!  Suddenly this is no longer just a friendly game!  Scenario Games (sometimes called "Big Games") are a combination of paintball and role-playing.  With teams that can number in the hundreds, these are run like full-scale military operations, complete with Generals, Spies, and even vehicles!  Most scenario games have an entry fee, run 24 hours a day, and last for 2 or 3 days.  They are as stressful as you make them, and can be a lot of fun if you get into your character.
 
 

A "renegade" paintball field is simply a field that is not professionally run.  Whether it is in somebody's back yard or in a State Forest, these are places where people just get together and play.  There are no referees, no chronographs, and the only access to paint and air is what you bring with you.  Unfortunately there is no one to enforce proper safety on these fields, and it is here where most paintball injuries can occur.  As these are not professional fields, the landowners rarely have insurance to cover you if you get hurt.  The number one rule for playing on a renegade field is to take care of yourself - make sure that no matter what anyone else tells you, you follow all the necessary safety precautions to keep yourself from getting hurt.
 
 

When you go to a paintball field, you may notice many players have markers that are not simply black or silver like yours.  This is part of that marker's cosmetic finish.  There are basically 3 types of cosmetic finishing - anodizing, nickel-plating, and powder coating.

Anodizing can only be done to aluminum.  In the process of anodizing, the parts to be colored are first polished, then immersed in a sulfiric acid bath, where they have an electric current run through them.  This removes any and all oxidation from the surface of the metal.  The parts are then removed from the acid bath and put into a dye bath, which adds the color. The number of colors is nearly limitless, as are the patterns the colors can make.  The anodizing process actually DYES the metal, so it neither ads nor removes any material.  One thing to know, however, is that the anodizing process affects different types of aluminum differently - type 6061 aluminum anodizes very well, while type 7075 does not.  Unfortunately there is no way to tell which alloy the aluminum in your marker is made from.

Nickel-plating is an electro-chemical process that electroplates nickel on your marker - it makes your marker look chromed.  Unlike anodizing, ANY metal can be nickel-plated, although nickel plating adds material to your marker.  This means that you must plug and seal ALL holes and openings on your marker with a non-reactive material to prevent the holes from plugging up, or to prevent the addition of nickel deposits INSIDE your marker.

Like nickel-plating, powder coating also adds material to your marker, so every hole must be plugged.  In the powder coating process, a powdered plastic is electro-statically applied to your marker.  The parts are then baked, where the plastic powder melts and adheres to the metal of your marker.  Powder coating can be done in almost ANY color, and is the most durable of the three cosmetic finishes available.  For those of you who are artistically inclined, try this:  put a colored base powder coat on your marker, then airbrush designs over that with enamel paint, finally get your marker re-powder coated with a CLEAR powder coat - your design will be permanent, and truly unique!

Off the three processes, powder coating is the cheapest.  Powder coating the parts to your marker may cost you less than $100.  Nickel-plating is the next expensive, and can cost around $200.  Multi-color anodizing, the most common cosmetic finishing in paintball, is the most expensive, costing between $250 - $400 depending on the number of pieces and their size.  For more information on cosmetic finishing, visit PK Selective.  In my opinion, they are the best in the business at all 3 types of cosemtic finishing.

One type of cosmetic finishing that I DO NOT recommend is painting.  Spray-painting your marker rarely works.  The paint flakes off the metal and usually looks horrible.  If you are intent on painting your marker, you should first mask all the holes and openings so that no paint gets inside the marker or plugs up any of the holes.  Be sure to prime your marker with a slef-etching spray primer (available at most automotive stores), this will help the paint stick better.  I recommend using automotive spray paint if you simply MUST paint your marker - apply it in several THIN coats for a smoother finish.  No matter how many coats you apply, or what you do, the paint WILL scratch and peel.  Sorry.
 
 

There has been a lot of talk in recent years about how important it is for the outer diameter of your paintballs to match the inner diameter of your barrel.  Even though paintball is "standardized" at .68 Caliber, or .680 inch, paintballs and bore sizes DO vary.  Paintballs can vary in diameter from .682" to .892+".  Bore sizes also vary, from .684" to .694".  Many barrel manufacturers make the exact same barrel in a small (.685" to .686"), medium (.689" to .692"), and large (.691" to .694") bore.  You should definately find out what the bore size is of the barrel you are about to buy.

Actually, the way to do it is to find out the diameter of your favorite brand of paintballs (for a chart, go HERE), then match that to the diameter of your barrel (for a chart, go HERE).

So why is the paint to barrel match important?  Well, if you use a larger diameter paint in a smaller bore barrel, it takes more energy - more gas - to push the paintball down the barrel.  Think of it like trying to blow a golf ball through a garden hose.  The amount of friction between the paintball and barrel is very high, which can cause a drastic drop in velocity.  If you are using a smaller diameter paint in a larger bore barrel, the paint will often just roll out of the end of the barrel if it is pointing towards the ground.  Also, when you shoot the marker, the air behind the paintball can escape around the edges of the paintball, causing a loss of velocity, and ruining your accuracy.
 
 

One of the biggest controversies in the game today is over Rate of Fire (ROF) and over-shooting.  The newer markers shoot so fast that no sooner has one paintball left the barrel, than another one is fired.  By the time the first paintball actually gets to its intended target, there are already 10 more right behind it.  Some players complain that this leads to over-shooting, or players getting lit up unnecessarily.

My take on this is simple - when they make a paintball that flies STRAIGHT where I aim it, DOESN'T break on any underbrush, and GUARANTEES a break every time - no bouncers - then I will slow my rate of fire.  Of every 10 paintballs I shoot, about 3 break on underbrush before they get to my target, 4 veer off course and don't hit my target, and of the remaining 3 that DO hit my target, 2 bounce and one breaks.  Why should I pop up and give my position away, and open myself up to return fire, when there is only a 10% chance that my shot will hit?  If I shoot a string of paintballs, my chances of getting an elimination are much higher.  I argue that increasing markers' ROF is the single most important technical improvement we have experienced over the past 5 years.  You may not think that it is necessary to have markers that fire 13+ balls per second.  "What is the difference between 2 balls per second and 13 balls per second?  Are those additional 11 balls per second REALLY necessary?"  My answer is a resounding "YES!"  Like most seasoned players, I am not easily intimidated or bunkered.  Even if a player is shooting 4 or 5 balls per second, I will take the risk of sticking my head out to return fire.  I do not do this when the ROF gets above 8 or so balls per second - I just cower behind my bunker.  There is THAT much of a difference!

And did you ever notice that the people who are complaining are the YOUNGER players, the ones who can't afford a fast-shooting marker?  They dream about owning an Angel or a Shocker so they can rock 'n' roll and spray paint, but they can't afford one.  Out of jealousy they decry those of us who CAN afford faster markers.  Or they complain that getting overshot hurts too much.  You know what?  This game was invented BY adults, FOR adults.  If you youngsters can't take being hit, then go play Lazertag!  Otherwise, suck it up and deal with it!  Buy a chest protector and pads if you need to, but don't flame my marker!  Don't tell me it's unfair that I have a job and have work hard for 60+ hours a week to be able to afford a high-end marker, and you can't while you sit in school for 6 hours a day doing nothing.  Just remember that when you complete school and get a REAL job, then you, too, can afford a dream marker - and some younger player will be complaining about YOU!