SEA FISHING RIGS

PATERNOSTERS

The most commonly used rigs in my area. How you attach the snood is a matter of personal opinion but the bait must rest on the sea bed. Tilt the rig at an angle to check. I like to jam a swivel between two beads. The swivel and link swivel can be replaced by a link if you wish. I prefer swivels as they allow the rig to roll in to gullies and holes more easily. A short snood length often results in fish hooking themselves more easily but a long snood looks more natural. Possible to attach several snoods but tangling a problem. Using weaker line for the snood allows the hook to break free if snagged. The use of booms keeps the rig from tangling but decreases the naturalness and cast distance (I never use them)

RUNNING LEDGERS

Ideal for shy fish like bass as the fish feels less resistance. Not a set up I use often but good for flatties. I tend to find these rigs snag easily and if the snood snaps the whole rig can be lost so best on clean ground. Another advantage of these rigs is the bait lies naturally on the sea bed rather than dangling in mid water. Attach the snood using a leader knot or double four fold blood knot, a bead prevents it from sliding past the swivel or lead. The Snood can be replaced with a wire trace for conger, tope etc (N.B. You'll be hard pushed to find tope in this neck of the woods). The 2nd rig can be altered by using weak line to attach the sinker for rough ground (short cast only)

PENNEL RIG

Not really a rig, just two hooks on a snood as shown. Normally the second hook is smaller. Everyone knows the size of the hook should match the size of the bait which should match the size of the fish expected. Sadly this means a cod size bait may result in hooking difficulties for whiting or codling. The extra hook gets around this problem. Beter still big fish do not always grab the hook end when lugworms have been slid up the snood, hence the extra hook.

WISHBONE RIG

Designed to allow two baits to be fished close together (a very good way of comparing baits). Best tied with 20-25lb line as this has the right amount of stiffness. Sadly the wish bone is a tangle waiting to happen and two baits add a lot of drag reducing casting distance. Good for piers and harbours.

WISHBONE RIG MARK II

This improved version makes use of a plastic swivel boom (any free moving boom will do) jammed between 2 beads and a short length of stiff line of about one inch between 2 beads. Combined they reduce tangles considerably. This is a short trace rig and is ideal for whiting and flatties off piers and harbours. The benefits of a wishbone rig are 2 different baits cab be fished very close to each other and smaller baits can be used but still put out the smell of one large one. It is difficult to cast this rig any decent distance and is prone to snags over rocky ground.

KILLER COD RIG

Tie your favourite bottom feeding rig but attach two hooks as shown. I would leave 2 inches between the bead/stop knot and main hook and use 1 inch for the hook on the free running swivel. This is similar to the wishbone rig but doesn't tangle as readily. The 2 inch line on the main hook gives room to slide worm baits up whilst the other hook can take some mussel, peeler, squid etc. This rig will also hook the smaller species such as flounder and whiting. The extra bait wiil impede casting distance so use for short cast marks. Use 20-25lb line for best results.

ROUGH GROUND RIGS

Three types of rig can be used. Both rely on the sinker being attached by a short length of line that is weaker than the main line (hence only the sinker is lost not the rig and leader line) Type B is the simplest to tie but cannot be cast hard due to risk of crack offs, use it for short range fishing or when using light weights. Types A and C are used when a long cast is required. A loop is tied on the end of the rig line as shown and hooked over a small nail in the lead (C) or over a combination bait clip/ lead clip (A) prior to casting as shown. On hitting the water the loop should fall off (hopefully) leaving the sinker attached by the weak line only. The snood length should be made of line that is weaker than the main line so the hooks will snap off. Use thin wired hooks as they bend straight if caught and tear through weed easily.

PULLEY RIG

Works on the principle the heaviest weight always hangs the lowest. Hence the lead goes first when casting, it lies on the seabed like a paternoster but when you reel in a fish the lead gets tucked neatly out of harms way. This reduced the chance of the lead getting snagged or bashing against the fish. This rig also has the advantage the fish feels less resistance when taking the bait. CLICK HERE TO SEE ANIMATION OF PULLEY RIG IN ACTION

FLOAT RIG

Floats can be used to fish for high and mid water feeding species from rocks or piers. In shallow estuaries set the bait to trip slowly along the bottom for flounders. The stop knot should be big enough not to slip through the float but should not impede casting. The stop knot sets the depth the hook sinks. Enough weight should be added to cock the float but not to sink it below the surface, a barrel or drilled bullet lead is ideal. Complex shotting patterns need not be learnt by the sea angler. A float can also be used to prevent lures sinking too deep and getting snagged. The float must always be kept under control on piers to prevent the tide carrying it across other anglers lines.

CONGER FISHING RIG

Conger eel are uncommon along the north east of England but there are a few locations which are worth trying your luck, Craster-Dunstanburgh area being probably the best. Set up as shown remembering it's better to attach the hook and swivel using crimps rather than knots, ready made wire traces are widely available wth preattached hooks. The 15lb line will withstand short casts and snap off easily if snagged.

LONG CAST RIG

The secret to all long cast rigs is streamlining as much as possible. This rig is a basic paternoster with 6 important differences.

1. The sinkerloop is on a stalk, these type of sinkers don't wobble as much as they fly through the air.
2. The shockleader and backbone of the rig is made from a low stretch brand.
3. Strong links replace the swivels at each end, links stand up to very hard casting better and are cheaper (good quality swivels are ok).
4. Bait clips are used to keep the bait tight against the rig rather than flapping around in mid cast. The top clip can be left out if the hook is tied by a shorter length of line. Bait clips can be bought or made from tubing and old hooks cut down. All in one link/baitclips are good for making rough ground rigs (see above) but I don't like them as bait clips as it can be difficult to set the snood the right length and tension.
5. Streamlined bait is used, worms cast further than whole peeler etc.
6. The main line on the reel should be as a low diameter as safely possible, 15 lb is ideal over clean ground.

Baitclips can be incorporated into almost any rig to improve distance. They also help keep soft baits on the hook and improve final presentation. They do however seem to attract loose weed alot. I prefer to reserve baitclips for when distance is essential and not to bother for any mark under 80 yards