Tackle

A basic guide to what you need and what you don't by someone who is not trying to sell you something.

Rods

Rods vary according to length, material, flexibility, taper, ring size and spacing, and of course quality and price. Lets start by dispelling a popular myth, The reason few anglers can cast more than 100yds is nothing to do with their rod they are poor casters. If you want distance get training, golfers pay good money to perfect their swing yet we anglers seem content to make things up as we go along. Read any fishing magazine that reports on learn to cast events and they are full of "Bob use to cast 50yrds now he can hit 150" and so forth. Three thing influence rod choice;

  1. Use. Do you fish clean beaches, off rocks, piers, estuaries, are most fish you catch small e.g. flounders, mackeral or whoppers like cod and bass.
  2. Casting style. Lay back, pendulum, backcast, overhead lob?
  3. Your physical attributes. are you tall or short, strong or weak, fast or slow.

Reels

Fixed spool or multiplier? In the hands of a good caster multipliers give the greatest distance and have the most power on the retrieve. The down side is they are difficult to cast with, producing magnificant birds nests. These are caused by the spool spinning faster that the sinker is flying. I find some models are more tempermental than others, all will need adjusting if you change the weight cast. If it has brakes use them, reducing the number as you become more confident. Brakes reduce the distance considerably so this often out weighs the distance argument in their favour. It is essential to stop the reel spinning the second the sinker hits the water or god help you. Casting with a multiplier is more satisfying than with a fixed spool due to the extra skill needed.
Fixed spool reels are almost fool proof to cast. As the spool does not spin, hence the name friction of the line rubbing against the top of the spool reduces the distance, since most anglers never cast to their full potential I don't think distance is an issue for most people. Most come with a spare spool and so 2 different strength line can be used (see line). As it is not essential to stop the line when the sinker hits the water they are better for night fishing. They have a quicker retrieve than multipliers making them useful for fishing over rough ground. Their lack of power should not be a major problem as the rod should be used to play the fish not the reel, lifting one out of the water and winching it 20 foot onto the pier can be a strain though. It is a good idea to have both types. Interestingly I switched from being a multiplier man to a fixed spool and found little difference in distance(it increased if anything)

Rod rest

Laying your rod and reel down on the sand is an unforgivable sin and you fully deserve the damage it causes. There are two basic types, the tripod and the spike. The spike kind are pushed into the sand and hold the rod higher lifting the line above the surf but are unsuitable for hard surfaces. I prefer a tripod as it is more adaptable.

The tackle box

Two kinds the seatbox and the compartment box. I use a seatbox type as it is easier to carry and I can put large items in like a flask. For a compartment box visit to your DIY shop and buy a tool box if your tackle dealer does not have one you like. Compartment boxes are the best for storing spare terminal tackle in at home. Never load up with more than you need for a days fishing unless someone else is carrying.

Hooks.

Come in a wide range of sizes from tiny ones used by coarse anglers to whopping big ones used by shark fisherman. You proberly only need a very small selection. The smallest I use is 2/0 for flatties, whiting and mackerel and the largest 4/0 for cod and bass. I prefer thin hooks as they penetrate better and hold the fish on the bend, they are also easier to cut through when necessary. Don't buy too many and discard when past it. Keep in a tight closed box and only take enough for a days fishing as saltwater is very corosive.

Carborundum stone.

Hooks can never be too sharp and it does not take them long to become blunt. Before puting the bait on check by scratching your thumbnail and sharpening if necessary.

Sinkers

A wide range of designs but stick to the torpedo shaped ones as they cast the furthest roll into gullies and don't get snagged as much as the others, some designs also are very hard work to reel back in (avoid making sinkers by pouring lead into a table spoon). I use 4-6oz leads according to conditions and the distance I need to cast. Light weights come to the surface quicker so don't get caught on the retrieve but roll around more so may get stuck then. Grip leads should break away easily when tugged hard but not otherwise. Drilled bullet leads and barrel leads are handy to add extra weight to spinners. Some companies such as Dvice and bait safe make weights which allow you to put the bait inside allowing you to cast further

DVice review in detail

Line

Don't scrimp on quality. Expensive stuff has a narrower diameter than the equivilent strength in cheaper brands. this means;

  • Your spool will hold more line.
  • There is less resistance so you will cast further. (try casting with 15lb line then with 20lb to see the difference, look how far the lead flys when you have a crack off).
  • There is a smaller area for the current to push against. Helping to keep your bait out at sea rather than being carried ashore.
  • A lower spool memory making casting easier and avoiding birds nests.
  • More supple making knot tieing easier.

The same distance cast with narrow diameter line (left) will leave more line on the spool reducing friction hence casting distance

Always be on the look out for a better brand each time you change your line (I change mine at least once a year depending on the amount of fishing I do). Keep some back to tie traces, rigs etc. There is some debate as to whether or not colour makes a difference. There are 3 schools of thought;

  1. It should be natural in colour or invisible.
  2. Colour makes no difference.
  3. Fish are attracted by certain coloured line.

Everyone has there own opinion but I have never seen any hard evidence to back it up. If you have please mention it in my guest book with reference. One day I might put different colours to the test so watch this space.(see fishing in colour for more details) High visability lines are useful in crowded events as they prevent other anglers casting over your line. If you use a fixed spool load one with 12-15lb line for long distance casting and the other with 20-30lb line for rough ground fishing. Fishing line has 101 uses around the home.

Leader line / shock leader

Has but one purpose, to prevent crack offs. Casting puts a tremendous strain on the line and your main line can't take it. Crack offs are not only annoying they waste time, make you look stupid (they always happen when people are watching) and they are extremely dangerous, 6 oz of lead flying up the beach for 200 yds is a killer. Use 10lb for each ounce cast, more if your built like a brick shithouse. Again the better stuff casts further but can be expensive. Large spools of cheap strong line can be used when fishing over rough ground where a long cast is not needed

Swivels, links and booms.

Swivels prevent the line from getting twisted, a problem with fixed spool reels. A link swivel can be used to attach the lead, this allows it to roll around and means it can be changed easily but make sure its strong enough to withstand casting. Split ring oval links can also be used to attach the lead or join a premade rig. It is important not to attach the line straight to the lead as abrasion will weaken it causing a crack off. Three way swivels are used for pasternosters and for making rolling ledgers. Booms are used to prevent the line from tangling but are rarely used by the shore angler as they reduce the naturalness of the rig.

Swiss army Knife.

Buy one designed for anglers that way you don't pay for stuff you'll never use. The 2 knives and the scissors are the 2 items I use the most followed by the disgorger and descaler. Out of curiosity does anyone know why it includes a bottle opener, a corkscrew and a toothpick? This is what I use to kill and clean my catch with for god sake does anyone think I'm going to use it to remove a piece of chicken from between my teeth.

Beads

Come in a wide range of colours and used as both fish attractors and to tie certain rigs. Not something I use very often. A few small ones on the snood just above the hook seems to keep the flatties happy. I think beads may make the bait look bigger and therefore more attractive, the rattling may also interest fish. I've also tried hollow beads with metal balls inside that rattle but see no improvement in catch rates. Although sound travels far underwater the rattle is masked by the sound of waves moving sand and shingle around. They might work be in lakes but I know nowt about that. Luminious beads seem to work well when fishing for whiting

Priest.

The anglers cosh. Used to dispatch fish by hitting them over the head. Can be bought or made at home. Personal I prefer to kill using a knife through the brain (see tips) as this is more humane. Interestingly books on angling usually recommend a priest whilst those on fishkeeping the knife method.

Alarm clock

The watch kind is the best as they are smaller. When fishing it is easy to lose track of time and get cut off by the tide. You can also use it to space out your casts so you don't reel in more often than necessary. Children seem to want to check there bait every 5 seconds and a stopwatch can help train them to fish more optimally. A watch with a rotating bezel is just as good.

Lures

We have all been fishing had a great time and run out of bait sooner than expected. A handful of lures are very welcome on these occasions. Stick to a few well trusted designs that have served you well in the past, most are designed to catch anglers not fish. Those days when the fish are plentiful are the times to test your lures, take note if the water is clear or not as this effects colour choice. Discard any designs that fail to catch fish. Remember a fish thinks your lure is another fish, it will not chase it if it thinks it is fit and healthy i.e. it will not use more energy chasing the lure than it expects to gain from eating it. This is known as optimal foraging theory and is the basis of all angling. Many ethologists believe bright vibrant colours in fish advertise a fit and healthy specimen thus reducing the likelyhood of predators singling that one out, perhaps this is why some lures are more successful.(see fishing in colour for more details)

Portable shelters

Umberallas, tents and the like are heavy, cumbersome and unnecessary it is better to wrap up warm. They are unsuitable for use on anything other than sand or grass due to securing problems. A simple shelter can be made by diging a hole and using an umberalla (see tips). As a rule of thumb shelters should be left at home unless the load can be shared. Secure by tieing guide ropes to bags of sand (MAKE THE SAND BAGS WHEN YOU GET TO THE BEACH NOT AT HOME THEY ARE VERY HEAVY). Dome tents are better than the traditional design as they can be carried to another spot without dismantaling.

Lamps

Vital for night fishing not only to see what your doing but to navigate the beach safely. Operated by either a burning fuel or a battery. I used a rechargable one for a while but found the time the lamp remained charged to be insufficient so switched to a fuel lamp. A miners lamp that is strapped to the head is a good investment especially when rock fishing when it's best to catrry as little as possible. Small lights for the end of the rod are also needed for night fishing. The can be either chemical or battery operated. The battery ones should be dissembled after use and dried off to prevent the wire from rusting. The chemical ones are a small tube which you bend and shake causing a chemical reaction. The last a long time but can only be used once (although they can take several days to lose their light). Which everone you choose line getting caught can be a problem so take care before casting.

Other Stuff

Wire cutters to cut through hooks making them easy to remove. Finger stool to protect finger when casting a fixed spool reel (especially the ladies). Thermal flask for hot drinks. Clean cloth to wipe hands before eating, those wet hand wipes you get in fast food resturants are ideal. Sticky plaster for those inevitable cuts. Conditioner, a tad brushed through the hair protects it from the ravages of the beach (Now your girlfriend has no excuse not to come and watch). Suntan lotion and sunglasses, work on that tan. Tape measure & scales, important for competions as there is normally a minimum size limit. Disposable camera, get proof of that 50lb fish you threw back for conservation. Hand warmer either gel based or disposable, solid fuel ones are difficult to light in cold weather. Spare car keys, it's amazing how quickly things disappear when you drop them on wet sand.

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