TIGER RESERVE
Sariska with its craggy canyons, tropical dry deciduous jungles and limited water supply is one of the extreme limits of the distribution of the tiger in India. In this seemingly hostile habitat the ecological tolerance of the tiger is on test. There are now 27 tigers in the reserve. Sariska is a special tiger reserve because the natural history of the ecosystem combines with the rich history of the country. The ruins of Shivite temples and a few Jain temples that exist in the archeological complex of Garh Rajore, belong to a period between the 8 and 10th century. The abandoned fort of Kankwari tells the story of the Moghul empire.
Sariska has three distinct seasons, as spring is very short. Winter is severe and frost is quite common during January when temperatures drop below 0° C. The summer is extremely hot with temperatures soaring to 45° C in May-June. Monsoon is received between July and September.
Probably you will not spot a tiger in the reserve unless you are very lucky. Deer, chital and sambar, are seen abundant. Besides you will likely spot jackal, porcupine, jungle cat, palm civet and mongoose. There is a large population of birds, especially partridges, peafowl and vultures.
HOW TO GET THERE
Distance from Delhi to Sariska in Rajasthan is 240 Km. It took us a good 5 hour drive to reach Sariska Palace Hotel. The road after Sohna, direction Alwar, was not in very good condition, which kept our speed low.
ITC provides a car with driver for 3D/2N for 7500 INR.
Sariska is 37 Km from Alwar (train station) and 115 Km from Jaipur (Airport).
ACCOMMODATION
We took a room on package basis at Hotel Sariska Palace via ITC. The rate was 3500 INR for one night, breakfast and dinner included. The heritage hotel is situated at the entrance of the tiger sanctuary. It was built at the end of the 19th century by Maharajah Jai Singh of Alwar and was originally a hunting lodge. We stayed in the main building in a very spacious room (ITC gave us a VIP treatment). The gardens are beautiful. The hotel can arrange jeep safaris to the nearby interesting places, although jeeps can be rented without commission at the forest department office in front of the hotel.
ACCESS TO THE PARK
Entry fee to the park is 200 INR for tourists. Rate for residents is 25 INR (use your UNMOGIP ID card). Car fee is 125 INR. Private jeeps with a capacity of up to 5/6 people can be hired for 700 INR for a 3 Hr safari (Sariska Palace charges 850 INR). We paid an extra 300 INR to visit additional the KANKWARI fortress. It is located completely off road and can only done by jeep. Own vehicle can be used, as long you remain on the main metalled road.
We hired a jeep at the forestry office. We were stopped at about 11 Km from the main entry somewhere in the middle of nowhere due to an empty fuel tank. The driver told us bluntly to walk back to the main entry gate. As it was near to dusk and jackals started to pop up all over the place, we kicked his ass and off he went with a 1.5 L Coca Cola bottle looking from some diesel in order to get us out of the area. After another 40 minutes, we closed the windows from the jeep and unrolled the canvas of the roof. Leaving my wife behind in the sealed gypsy we went looking for some help, as our bottled driver did not reappear. From the whole day we did not saw one tiger, but running in the early evening over the tracks in this reserve – we were told not to go out of the car at no means – we felt the tiger eyes in our back. We were really a wonderful bite. After a 3 Km run over a dusty track we encountered another gypsy with a Japanese couple on board – making big eyes seeing two idiots running in the wild and offered to help us out. They towed us to the exit. Finally we arrived back at the forestry office under 20 Kg of dust after being towed for 10 Km. I made a complaint to a forest department official – I think so, anyway he got a radio - about the irresponsible behavior of the jeep driver and asked our money back as our safari was spoiled. He answered that the driver was private and not belonging to the forest department and said that the gypsy driver brought us in the reserve and took us out, so that the contract was fulfilled and no money had to be returned. I was not at all too very happy with his answer, stating that I paid my excursion to the forest department official and told him to call immediately the forest department director. At this moment we started to be the local sensation as around fifty people surrounded us. Strange enough the local public took our side. The forest department director arrived and after exchanging our views paid us nearly the complete safari back.
Lessons learned: Even if you book a jeep at the forest department, it will be a private one (probably a commission issue). Check your vehicle twice before you start your journey in the 800 Sq Km reserve especially fuel and reserve wheel. When you pay 700 INR for a 3-Hr tour, check that your driver really goes into the reserve (the part after the police check post until the Pandupole area (looks like an oasis). Some drivers seem to economize on the fuel and drive only in the buffer zone instead going into the core zone. Best moment to see a tiger is very early morning. Do not trust the tiger, but also not the driver!
OUTSIDE THE PARK AREA
Twenty Km from the reserve lays a national archeological site – the Nilakanteshwar temple. On the way to the temple you will pass another Mughal fort in Tehala village. If you leave the reserve it will be difficult to get back in without paying. From the site it is possible to reach Alwar through a rural road but to the conditions of the road, speed wil be low.
GUIDES
Guides are available at the Reception Centre of the Sariska Tiger Project. Could be useful if you use a private car instead of a safari gypsy (recommended). It should not cost more than 150 INR for 4 Hr (JP Chhipa – Tel 0144-841333).