SARABURI - LOPBURI - SINGHBURI
TOUR DONE IN SEP 2002
PROGRAMME
DAY 1: BANGKOK - SARABURI - LOPBURI
DAY 2: LOPBURI
DAY 3: LOPBURI - SINGHBURI - BANGKOK
DAY 1
SARABURI
Saraburi has been an important town since ancient times. It is believed to have been constructed in the year 1548 during the reign of King Maha Chakraphat (1548 - 1568) of Ayutthaya as a centre for recruiting troops. The town, as a gateway to the north-eastern region, is only 108 Km from Bangkok.
WAT PHRA PHUTTHABAT
Located in Amphoe Phra Phutthabat, 28 Km north of Saraburi along Highway N? 1. Wat Phra Phutthabat is one of the six royal temples in the country bestowed with the highest temple rank Rachavoramahavihan. The temple houses the footprint of Lord Buddha found on a stone panel near Suwan Banpot Hill during the reign of King Songtham of Ayutthaya (1611-1628). A cone-shaped structure or mondop (square shrine) was built to cover the footprint. The original mondop perished in a fire. The current one dates to the reign of Rama I (1782-1809). The beautiful mondop has a seven-level castle roof. Each level is decorated with an arch supported by wood and decorated with gold and coloured glass. The external walls are also decorated with gold and coloured glass in the shapes of mythological gods and rice offering ceremonies. The pearl inlay artwork on the mondop doors is one of the best samples of this type of craftsmanship in the country. A five headed Naga (mythical serpent) cast in bronze flanks the stairs to the stairs to the mondop entrance. The mondop is surrounded by bells used by visitors to make merit for other people. A museum in the temple displays many ancient objects including King Songtham's attire, old weapons, bronze ware and ceramics. Entry fee for foreigners is 30 Baht.
WAT KAW WONG
On the temple premises is a cave called Tham Narai with a Buddha statue in meditation posture (Dhyana). Behind the statue is a meditation cave with a carved "Chinese" Buddha rock. On the right of the cave is a nice mandapa with a sculpture of Vishnu (Phra Narai) riding his "vehicle" Garuda. Vishnu, the preserver god and and element of the Hindu trimurti has four hands. The first holds a conch shell (sankha) indicating spread of the divine sound "Om"; one holds a discus (chakra), a reminder of the wheel of time, and to lead a good life; one holds a lotus (Padma) which is an example of glorious existence and the fourth hands holds a mace (gada) indicating the power and the punishing capacity of the Lord if discipline in life is ignored.
WAT THAM SRI WILAI
Temple situated inside a nice cave. The entry to the main cave is situated higher up. A slippery path a few meters at the right before entering the temple premises leads to the cave. Take care when you descend into the cave especially during the rainy season.
NAMTOK CHET SAO NOI
Waterfall situated 9 Km beyond the Muak Lek Arboretum. There are many resorts on the route to this spot. The waterfall has many (low) levels and really invites you for a swim. The well maintained park offers a spacious shady area.
DAY 2
LOPBURI
Lopburi, 153 Km north of Bangkok and formerly known as "Lavo". Following the history of Lannathai (Northern part of Thailand) it was built during the Dvaravati period in 459 AD. The City of Lavo was an important ancient town of the Khmers from the 10th-13th century. Many Khmer ruins are found in and around the town. During the Ayutthaya period, King Narai the Great (1656-1688) established Lopburi as the second capital with the help of French architects. Most of the architecture of that time reflects the mixture of Thai and Western styles.
STATUE OF KING NARAI THE GREAT
This statue is situated at the entrance of the Lopburi city. It was erected to honour King Narai the Great who made Lopburi an important and prosperous town. He commanded many magnificent structures built in this town including, the Phra Narai Ratchaniwet Palace, several fortifications and a Buddhist sanctuary. He was the first one to apply modern technology in the observatory and in laying terracotta pipes to supply water to the palace. As for his foreign policy, King Narai was the first Thai monarch who established diplomatic relations with France and attributed friendly policy towards other foreigners, especially the Europeans.
NARAI RATCHANIWET PALACE
This palace in the town centre was built by King Narai and took 12 years to be completed (1665-1677). Now the whole compound has been turned into the Lopburi National Museum and houses the following historical buildings:
Water Reservoir stored water which came through terracotta pipes from Tha-le Chupson, a large freshwater lake which supplied drinking water to the inhabitants of Lopburi.
Phra Khlang Supharat commonly known as the twelve treasure houses, stored the royal treasures as well as royal goods for selling to foreign merchants.
Elephant and Horse Stables located close to the wall separating the outer section of the palace from the middle section.
Chanthon Phisan Phisan Pavilion was built as a royal residence of King Narai in 1665. It was subsequently used as an audience hall after King Narai had moved his residence to Suttha Sawan Pavilion. The building was constructed in pure Thai style, thus indicating that no French architects were involved in its construction. The building was restored by King Rama IV in 1863 and is now used as a hall for displaying archaeological art objects. Many Lopburi style stone Buddha images are kept in the building.
Phiman Mongkut Pavilion is a three-storied brick building used as a residence of King Rama IV when he visited Lopburi during the renovation of the palace. Connected with the pavilion are the other three buildings namely Suttha Wintchai Pavilion, Chia Sattrakon Pavilion and Akson Sattrakhom. All of these buildings are now used as the offices of the Lopburi National Museum.
Dusit Sawan Thanya Maha Prasat Hall - King Narai had this building constructed to be used as an audience hall for high-ranking foreign visitors and ambassadors. He probably received Chevalier de Chaumont, King Louis XIV's representative, in this hall. The building was constructed in a mixed Thai and Western architectural style.
Suttha Sawan Pavilion - This is the residence where King Narai died on 11 July 1688, while the palace was under the control of two revolutionaries being Phra Phetracha and his son Luang Sarasak. Ruins of the pavilion, artificial hills and fountains remain. It has been recorded that the pavilion stood amidst a beautiful garden in which there were many fountains.
Phra Chao Hao Building located in the south of the outer section of the palace was built, probably as a private audience hall, in Thai style. Only wall sections remain, but the decorative designs at the doors and windows are still visible.
The Banquet Hall built to entertain important foreign visitors, is surrounded on three sides by ponds. A brick platform fronting the hall may have been a stage or theatre where guests were entertained, perhaps by shadow plays or dances, after dinner. The entry to the palace is 40 Baht for foreigners.
PRANG KHAEK
This small Khmer ruin is in the market place on Vichayen Rd and considered to be the oldest monument of Lop Buri. The structure was built in the 15th century BE as a Hindu shrine with three adjoining towers, representing the Hindu trimurti.
WAT NAKHON KOSAI
Situated just north of the train station, Wat Nakhon Kosa once was a Khmer's sanctuary. The ancient temple fell in ruins over a period of time. The large chedi was built during the Dvaravati period. The ubosot and the vihara were built during the reign of King Narai the Great. The Prang was built in the Lopburi period during the late 17th century BE. The other prang was also built and restored during the reign of King Narai. Presumably, Chao Phraya Kosathibodi (Lek) might be the one who renovated this temple. Therefore it was named as Wat Nakhon Kosa. Sculptures of the Dvaravati period were found during excavations at the base of the large chedi in 1987-1988. They are exhibited at the National Museum in Lopburi.
PHRA PRANG SAM YOT
This former Hindu shrine is some 200 metres from the railway station and Lopburi's best known landmark. The laterite and sandstone structure was constructed in the Lopburi style and decorated with stucco. Adjoining towers symbolise the Hindu trimurti of Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver, and Shiva the destroyer. During the reign of King Narai, the shrine was converted in a Buddhist Temple. Now, two prangs contain ruined Lopburi style Buddha images. A U Thong styled Buddha image sits in the brick sanctuary in front of the prangs. Admission fee is 30 Baht for foreigners.
SAN PHRA KAN
This former Brahman shrine is adjacent to Phra Prang Sam Yot. It consists of an ancient laterite Khmer ruin and a shrine. The monkeys living in the compound sometimes cause mischief when approached. A sandstone lintel of the 11th century AD depicting Vishnu resting on the bed of the powerful, coiled serpent, Sheshnag representing the sleeping universe is installed in a small shrine on top of the pedestal. An octagonal stone with ancient scripts dating of the 7th century was found here. The large shrine in the front was built in 1953 on the base of the shrine built during King Narai's reign. Inside there is a standing image of the bodhisattva Avalokitesvara dating from the 13th century in Lopburi style with a sandstone Buddha head of the Ayutthaya period.
VICHAYEN HOUSE
It was the residence for Chevalier de Chaumont, the first French ambassador to Thailand during the reign of Louis XIV (he arrived in Ayutthaya in Sep 1685). A part of the place was occupied by Chao Phraya Vichayen (a Greek adventurer named Constantine Phaulkon) until he was executed by the anti-foreign Phra Phetracha (later King Phetracha 1688 - 1703) on 5 June 1688. Many ruined buildings dot the compound. One served as a Roman Catholic chapel. Others were residences for the ambassador and mission members. Ruined brick water tanks and fountains are visible. Admission fee for foreigners is 30 Baht.
WAT SAOTONGTHONG
Situated north of the Royal Palace. Many names of buildings in the temple compound are from different languages and in western style architecture, which led to the supposition that the location of the compound has been a dwelling place of ambassadors to the Ayutthaya Kingdom. The vihara was used as a Catholic church or a Mosque. The main Buddha image was created in the Ayutthaya period and the vihara houses very nice Buddha images dating from the 13th century, nearly all in the "Naga over Buddha" posture. Later King Narai restored this monastery and changed the windows of the vihara into a western style. The Kachasam building was likely used by the Persian Ambassador. The compound houses also Wat Ruok (in the south). Thai foot and body massage is available at the temple (90 Baht/Hr while 120 Baht/Hr in airco room)
WAT PHRA SRI RATTANA MAHATHAT
This large temple covering 20 Rai is located behind the railway station near Phra Kan Shrine. The layout of the temple consists of a large prang in the middle of the temple functioning as the principal part, buildings and chedi encircling the temple. According to the architecture and sculptures found it is assumed that it has been built in the 13th century. It has been renovated several times until the late Ayutthaya period. The construction of the temple can be divided into two groups: being the period before and during the reign of King Narai. The first group consists of the principal prang built around 1157 (The U-Thong style Buddha images on the prang were added at a later date), the small prang, the minor chedi and the prang outside the boundary of the outer galleries. The second group consists of the 9-room vihara, the chedi in between the inner galleries and the outer galleries (such as the chedi with the Singha type base and the chedi with the 12 redenting angles. Admission fee for foreigners is 30 Baht.
WAT BANDAI HIN
This temple with a chedi with indented corners has been built during the reign of King Narai. It is situated between Wat Sri Rattana Mahathat and the railway station.
WAT INDRA
Totally ruined temple of not much interest on Ratchadamnoen Rd (close to the railway station, opposite Wat Nakhon Kosai).
WAT SAN PAULO
Ruins situated on Ruam Decho Road, some 1.5 Km east of the city. Christian church built on a donated plot of land to a French Jesuit priest by King Narai. It was also used for star observation. The architectural style was mixed Thai and European. The portal arch was built on European style, while the observatory was constructed in octagonal shape. Only a brick wall of a high tower remains behind the church site. The name "San Paolo" must be Portuguese derived from the French "Saint Paul". The former church had a similar name as the St Paul's Church in Ayutthaya.
PRATU CHONG-KUD / CHAICHANASONGKHRAM FORT
Inner water gate built during the reign of King Narai. This particular Watergate is also known as "Pak Jan". The gate was built inside the city moat in order to be able to control the flow and water level between the city moat and the Lopburi River. The water gate is a few meters away from the remains of the Chaichanasongkram Fort, part of the former vestiges of the city.
WAT MANI CHONLAKHAN
The monastery was originally called Wat Ko Kaeo because it was located on a small island. Interesting to see are, Chedi Luang Pho Saeng, the ubosot, the vihara and the large Buddha image along the river.
DAY 3
SINGHBURI
Situated 142 Km north of Bangkok on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. According to events in the history, Phra Cha Kaison, son of King Promma the great, built the city in 1107 and named the city "Singh Buri" after his name Kaison meaning lion (singh). Formerly the city was situated at Phosunkho district on the bank of the Noi River. In 1897 King Rama V ordered to move to move the city to Bang Phutsa district on the bank of the Chao Phraya River in a consolidation of the three small riverside towns Singh Buri, In Buri and Phrom Buri (south of Singhburi and built by Khun Luang Pagnua around 1377).
WAT SAWANG AROM
This temple is situated in the town known as a centre for Buddha image sculpture. The technique was handed down from the Ban Cha Lo School in Thon Buri. The temple houses a collection of 300 old Nang Yai (shadow play figures) and it can be viewed in the museum (first floor). The Nang Yai are very special. The leather used to make this shadow play figures, came from the skin of an unborn calve from a cow which was killed by a lightening. The Nang Yai needed to be created within 24 Hr and the maker needed to reside in the temple for one full day, before proceeding.
WAT PHRA NON CHAKSI
This temple is 4 Km south of the town along the Singburi-Suphanburi route. It houses a huge Sukhothai-style reclining Buddha image, which is revered by the local people and renowned for its large size, almost 46 m long.
MONUMENT OF BANG RACHAN HEROES
The monument is situated in A. Khai Bang Rachan, 13 Km southwest of the town on Route N? 3032. The statue refers to the villagers of Bang Rachan who bravely fought against the Burmese army in 1765 during the reign of King Ekkathat of Ayutthaya (1758-1767). In spite of many more troops than the villagers, the Burmese had to make eight attacks before the villagers were defeated due to their shortage of weapons. Their heroic actions slowed down the Burmese advancement on Ayutthaya with 5 months. A movie was brought out in 2001 regarding this brave event in history.
Link to the movie
www.bangrajan.com
WAT PHO KAO TON
This temple is near the Monument of Bang Rachan Heroes. It was the base where the Bang Rachan villagers resisted the Burmese attacks. A replica of the ancient fortress, identical to the original was constructed. In a chapel is a statue of Phra Achaan Thammachot who was both a monk and a leader of the Bang Rachan's heroes.
WAT PHIKUN THONG
Temple located in T. Wihan Khao, A. Tha Chang, 9 Km from Wat Phra Non Chaksi. Visitors come here top pay homage to the statue of Luang Pho Phae, the famous abbot of the temple (deceased). The temple also houses Thailand's largest sitting Buddha image, 23 m wide and 42 m high, made of concrete and decorated with golden mosaic.
WAT PHRA PRANGE
This ancient site is located in T. Choeng Klat, A. Bang Rachan 17 Km west of the town. The temple contains an old pagoda in Lopburi style assumed to have been constructed during the reign of King Narai. The prang measures 15 m high and has some Buddha images at its base. Not far from the temple ruined ancient kilns have been discovered. They were used for firing earthenware during the Ayutthaya period. The kilns were relatively large and once produced jars, bowls, mortars, pots, gable tops, floor tiles and the terra cotta pipes for the water system in the Lopburi Royal palace.
WAT BOT
Old temple constructed in an unusual style having iron rails as the core of the lower part. The window and door panels of the chapel were carved exquisitely by the best artisan of Singburi named Chuen Hathakosol, who devoted 10 years of his life doing this piece of work. The In Buri National museum is situated inside the temple. It exhibits several old objects such as king Rama V's palanquin, large shadow play figures, various styles of " Phat Yot" (monk ranking ecclesiastical fans), a Green Stone Buddha Image, and an ancient sugar cane crushing machine.
ANG THONG
Small province town located on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, 108 Km north of Bangkok. The former settlement was at Wiset Chai Chan on the bank of the Noi River. It was an essential frontier outpost of Ayutthaya when fighting with the Burmese. Burmese troops located their camps at Wiset Chai chan in order to prepare for the attack on Krung Sri Ayutthaya in 1765. During the Thonburi period the majority of the people was moved to a new site on the left bank of the Chao Phraya River named Ban Bang Kaeo. The name "Ang Thong" or "golden bowl" refers to the abundant rice growth in the lower plains along the Chao Phraya River.
WAT TON SON
Located in the town on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, this old temple enshrines "Somdet Phra Si Muang", a beautiful seated Buddha image.
***