AROUND KATHMANDU
DHULIKHEL
The hill resort of Dhulikhel lies 32 km to the east of Kathmandu on the Arniko Highway that leads to Tibet. In the old days, Dhulikhel flourished as a trading center handling commerce between Kathmandu and Lhasa. Today, it delights visitors with its enchanting cultural heritage and stunning Himalayan views.
THE TOWN
Dhulikhel (population 9,812 and altitude 1,440 m) is a small town with a long history. Records show that it has been around for more than 500 years. The artistic skill and urban ethos of its Newar inhabitants have created a place of charm and beauty. streets lined with bare-brick houses, carved wooden windows, sloping tile roofs, pagoda temples and sacred statues everywhere. You will think you have wandered into a cultural theme park.
The major places of worship here are the Narayan and Harisiddhi temples which are adorned with profuse wood carvings. The Gokhureswar Mahadev temple, a 30-minute walk to the eastern part of town, is a peaceful and scenic spot. The Bhagwati temple is situated at a height in the western part of Dhulikhel and dominates the skyline. From here, you can get a beautiful vista of the town and surrounding areas.
THE VIEW
There are many vantage points in Dhulikhel which offer a panorama of the Himalaya that will leave you spellbound. Looking out over low hills and valleys, the mountains rise up in an extended arc stretching from the far left to the far right. More than 20 Himalayan peaks, including Annapurna (8,091 m), Ganesh (7,429 m), Langtang (7,234 m), Phurbi-Chyachu (6,637 m), Gauri Shanker (7,134 m) and Lhotse (8,516 m) can be seen in all their glory. You should get up early in the morning to watch the first rays of the sun hit the summits and their colors change. Sunset views are equally spectacular.
ACTIVITIES
The most popular activity for visitors in Dhulikhel is doing nothing. For something more strenuous, we recommend bird watching. You can sit back in your hotel garden and admire the winged creatures fluttering from tree to tree. The forests around Dhulikhel harbor many species of exotic birds and observing them is a wonderful pastime.
For adventurers, there's hiking around the countryside, visiting nearby pilgrimage sites and mountain biking. Walking trails pass through Tamang villages and terraced fields providing you an insight into rural Nepal. The shrine of Namura or Namo Buddha, where the Buddha in a past life is said to have offered his own flesh to a starving tigress, is four-five hours on foot. The center of attraction at the village of Panauti (two-four hours' walk) is the temple of Indreswar Mahadev, the oldest existing pagoda structure in the Kingdom.
Mountain biking is a joy with hill trails and rough roads radiating in all directions from Dhulikhel. Some popular routes are Dhulikhel-Panauti-Dhulikhel, Dhulikhel-Banepa-Nala-Dhulikhel and Dhulikhel-Namura-Dapcha-Panauti-Banepa-Dhulikhel. Rafting on the Sun Koshi river, 25 km away, is another exciting diversion.
Located 30 km to the east of Kathmandu on the valley rim, Nagarkot is the favorite weekend getaway for those who seek Himalayan scenery and rural serenity.
NAGARKOT
THE VIEW
Nagarkot is situated at an elevation of 2,175 m and provides a grandstand panorama of the Himalaya. You can see five of the world's 10 tallest mountains - Everest (8,848 m), Lhotse (8,516 m), Cho Oyu (8,201 m), Makalu (8,463 m) and Manaslu (8,163 m) - and many other lesser summits. The snow peaks look especially gorgeous during sunset and sunrise.
ACTIVITIES
Surrounded by terraced hillsides and picturesque farm houses, the hilltop resort is the epitome of an idyllic escape - with only the wind and the sound of rustling leaves to disturb you. Bird watching is a joy in the forests here. Short hiking options abound. The most popular walk leads down from Nagarkot along a ridge to the temple of Changu Narayan - with views of Sankhu village to the right and Bhaktapur to the left. Another preferred trail leads south from Nagarkot to Nala and Banepa on the highway to Tibet.
OTHER HILL RESORTS
DAMAN
Daman (elevation 2,400 m) is the place to go for those seeking the ultimate pan-Himalayan view and willing to travel the extra distance to find it. Located 75 km to the southwest of the Kathmandu Valley on the highway to India, Daman offers the only unimpeded view of the entire Himalayan range, a sight guaranteed to leave the early riser spellbound for days to come.
KAKANI
Kakani (elevation 1,982 m) lies 23 km to the northwest of Kathmandu. It is a less crowded and more pristine destination which provides excellent mountain views of Ganesh Himal, Langtang and the Annapurnas. The offerings of nature provide the impetus to visit Kakani, and nature lovers will hail the close-up view of Ganesh Himal to the north, as well as the beautiful oak and rhododendron forests on the south slope leading down to Balaju.
Hiking around Kathmandu Valley
The Kathmandu Valley rim offers excellent opportunities for hiking and mountain biking. Taxis and buses are available to get to the starting point of the trail. Good bikes can be rented at many shops around town. Here are some routes in the north, east, south and west of Kathmandu:
SHIVAPURI
Hiking. The climb to the top of Shivapuri hill (altitude 2,732 m), which lies directly to the north of Kathmandu, takes about three hours. The path is alternating level walks through forests and steep inclines. The summit of Shivapuri is one of the four pilgrimage peaks on the valley rim. The trail begins behind the shrine of Budhanilkantha (9 km, bus or taxi). For the return, you can walk along the ridge that descends south to Bouddha where transport is available.
SANKHU-NAGARKOT
Hiking. Head east from the ancient village of Sankhu (16 km to the east of Kathmandu, bus or taxi) passing terraced fields and farm houses to the Himalaya viewing spot of Nagarkot (12 km, three-four hours). This route is good for mountain biking too. Nagarkot is 2,175 m high. For the return to Kathmandu, you can take a different route by walking south to Banepa via Nala (four-five hours) and then catching a bus.
BHAKTAPUR-CHANGU NARAYAN
Hiking. Walking north from Bhaktapur (12 km to the east of Kathmandu, bus or taxi), turn left at the road leading to Nagarkot to reach the hill-top shrine of Changu Narayan (4 km, two hours). The walk offers panoramic views of the mountains, terraced fields and the Manohara river. There is also a small village on the eastern side of the temple. You can avoid the same route getting back to Kathmandu by climbing down the northern slope to the road where you can catch a bus.
PHULCHOKI
Hiking. Phulchoki (altitude 2,762 m) to the southeast of Kathmandu is the highest of the four pilgrimage peaks ringing the valley. The top offers views of the Himalaya to the north and the Terai plains to the south. A Hindu shrine sits amidst a tangle of TV and radio antenna towers. There is an abandoned iron mine about three-fourths of the way up. Its forested slopes are covered with rhododendrons and orchids. The trail (about three hours to the top) begins behind St. Xavier's School at Godavari (20 km from Kathmandu, bus or taxi). There is also a dirt road up the mountain.
CHAMPA DEVI
Hiking. Champa Devi hill (altitude 2,247 m, also known as Dhinacho) is situated to the southwest of Kathmandu. A popular way up is from Haatiban (9 km, bus or taxi) on the road to Dakshinkali. The trail takes two-three hours and begins next to the Haatiban Resort car park. The first stretch is a pleasant stroll through pine forests. The final approach is a very steep climb over rock outcroppings. There is a Hindu shrine and a Buddhist stupa on the summit. For the return, you can avoid using the same route by continuing west along the ridge, and climbing down the northern slope to Naikap on the highway to Thankot where you can catch a bus.
KATHMANDU-KULEKHANI
Hiking. Follow in the footsteps of the old travellers on this historic trade route. This walking trail was the only way from Kathmandu to India until the Tribhuvan Highway was built in 1956. Head south from the police checkpost at Thankot (10 km to the west of Kathmandu, bus or taxi), and climb over the valley rim at Chandragiri Pass (elevation 2,280 m) to the village of Chitlang and on to Markhu beside the Kulekhani reservoir (Lake Indrasarovar, five-six hours). Overnight at Markhu (basic lodges) and visit the Kulekhani dam (two hours). Return to Kathmandu by bus over the Tribhuvan Highway, or walk east to Pharping (four-five hours, the trail begins at Kalanki near the dam) where you can catch a bus to Kathmandu (18 km).
NAGARJUN (JAMACHO)
Hiking. Nagarjun hill (altitude 2,096 m) is a popular pilgrimage site. The trail begins at the entrance of the protected forest (5 km to the northwest of Kathmandu on the way to Kakani from Balaju, bus or taxi). The walk to the top takes about two hours. Great views of the Kathmandu Valley and a number of Himalayan peaks can be had from here. There is a Buddhist stupa and a view tower on the summit. A dirt road (37 km) also winds up the hillside.