Jeep Cherokee 98 XJ

Re-install stock fender flares

My problem was that the stock fender flares kept falling off when a tire got stuffed. Also, the fender would occasionally cut a tire when the XJ was flexed out. This needed fixed. However, I still wanted to maintain a stock look with the flares and body.

Solution:

Difficulty level:

- Do away with stock mounting system for the flares. - Positively attach flares with stainless steel screws. - Opt: Cut away excess fender to improve tire clearance.

This is an easy project for anyone familiar with drills and sawz-all. It took me about 4-6 hours.

Flare Preparation:

1. With the fender flare on the vehicle, outline the existing flare by putting tape on the fender to mark stock position. 2. Position the head of a screw along the edge of the fender flare to determine approximate location for row of screws. You don't want the screw head to stick past the edge of the fender flare when everything is put back together. I found this distance to vary from about a half to almost three-quarters of an inch depending upon the surface slope of the flare. But you do want to try and keep the line of screws as close to the edge as you can since that is the contact surface for the fender flares. 3. Lightly scribe line for screw holes, which actually varies depending upon the angle on that part of the flare.

4. Remove fender flare, all mounting hardware, and the flare liner that goes between the fender flare and wheel well liner. 5. With the flare off the vehicle, mark spacing for screws. I set mine at around 3" but would space them at 5-6" next time. Three inches was probably too close. I didn't put any down low towards the rocker panel. I only put them where the exiting hardware had been. 6. Counter sink holes. I used a #8 counter sink with an 1/8" bit in my Makita 9.6v cordless drill. (I got it used in '98 and I've used it almost daily since then!). This provided a clean pilot hole and a smooth recess for the screw head. 7. Clean up around the drilled holes. Little tatters of plastic were left that I cut away with a utility knife.

Drilling the countersink in the fender flare

Cut fender:  (optional)

1. Mark fender. I followed an existing ridge in the body, which was just where it needed to be. You might use tape or a marker if yours is different. If you look at the fender flare you can see that only the top edge contacts the fender. This is how much of the fender that must remain to reattach the flare. By eliminating the stock mounting hardware I was able to cut over 1" of metal off the fender. I could have cut more but wanted to keep the existing wheel well liner. 2. Cut fender. Protect the paint as needed. Watch out for the plastic wheel well liner if you want to keep it. I used my Makita 9.6v cordless sawz-all. It helped to keep vibration down to use a fine tooth blade and by maintaining the blade at a steep angle to the sheet metal. 3. Smooth the rough edges with a grinder then prime and paint all bare edges.

Reinstall Flare:

1. Install the bolt through the bottom corner of the flare first. This seemed to help keep the whole thing in place better. 2. Line the flare up with the tape on the fender. Use self-tapping sheet metal screws to initially attach the flare. Trying to hold everything in place and drill a hole was too hard. The self taper gives a clean hole for the stainless steel screws to follow later. 3. Reattach the plastic wheel well liner. I used some short self tapers below the edge of the fender flare that are hidden from view.

4. Step back and make sure everything looks right. 5. Remove the flare and  the tape. The tape doesn't want to come off very easy with the flare on top of it. 6. Put the flare back on with the SS screws. All the holes should line up 7. Do this three more times, then go get it dirty!

Tools needed:

Tape, I used blue tape so it'd come off easier Pencil Drill      #8 counter sink bit with 1/8" pilot      #2 screw tip, or whatever fits your fastener of choice Sawz-all with fine tooth metal cutting blade. (Or cut-off blade in grinder.) Grinder Utility knife Screws      20-30 1/2" pan head self-taping screws      15-20 1 1/4" self taping screws      40-50 1 1/4" stainless steel oval head screws Paint to match and prime

After almost a year of daily driving and off-road this is still a good modification. The fender flares have refused to come off even under "stress" and no more tire cuts!

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