JK Cheetah >>>>>>>>>>>>

    1. Graphite guide flag.
    2. Parma fronts.
    3. Ultimate leadwire.
    4. Parma motor set-up.
    5. Parma armature.
    6. DM2 magnets.
    7. Gold Dust brushes.
    8. Faas pinion.
    9. PSE spur.
  10. HTK rears.

  <<<<<<<<< JK Scorpion 2

    This is a Scorpion 2 in the
    process of being rebuilt.
    New axle bushings have
    been installed, aligned, and
    soldered to the chassis.  A
    new front axle has been
    installed and soldered to
    the chassis.  A new rear 
    pan support is installed
    and soldered to the pan.
        ----------------------------
   Here is what the completed
   chassis looks like.  Note the
   installation of floating pin
   tubes, front wheels, new
   leadwire and wire keepers.
   <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Champion Turboflex >>>>>

    1. Graphite guide flag.
    2. Champion fronts.
    3. TQ leadwire.
    4. Floating pin tubes.
    5. Parma motor set-up.
    6. Parma armature.
    7. DM2 magnets.
    8. Gold Dust brushes.
    9. Faas pinion.
   10. PSE spur.
   11. HTK rears. 

    Champion Astroflex   

    1. Graphite guide flag.
    2. Champion fronts.
    3. TQ leadwire.
    4. Floating pintubes.
    5. Parma motor set-up.
    6. Parma armature.
    7. Gold Dust brushes.
    8. Faas pinion.
    9. BIR rears
     >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Set-up tips

  1.  The most important aspect of building a chassis...the chassis must be
       straight.   Often, even a new chassis is bent during shipment.  Whether
       building a new chassis or rebuilding an existing chassis, use the back
       edge of your tech tool and a tech block sized piece of glass to make
       sure that each section of your chassis is flat.  If necessary, use pliers
       to carefully straighten the chassis to its original shape.

  2. The proper installation of the rear axle bushings is also very important.
      Pictured above, you can see that I have installed new rear axle bushings. 
      The bushings are held in place with an axle and two old rear wheel hubs.
      Proper installation requires that you use a caliper to measure the axle
      height (at each bushing) from the bottom of the chassis.  It may be
      necessary to raise or lower one of the bushings to equalize the
      measurement at each bushing.  Once you have the bushings aligned in
      the chassis, solder them to the chassis.

      The second part of the axle bushing installation process, is to fine tune
      the alignment of the bushings in relation to the axle.  Minor repositioning
      of the bushing upright may be necessary to reduce friction.  Take your
      time with this part.  Reducing friction (drag) increases speed and
      reduces strain on your motor.  When the bushinge are positioned
      properly, the axle should fall out of the bushings when the chassis is
      turned on its side.

  3. Installation of the front axle is the next step.  I like to purchase axle
      material in 36" sections.  It is far more cost effective and allows you to
      install a longer axle that can be cut to size later.  The plating on the
      inside of the front axle uprights on the chassis needs to be removed.
      The axle should be securely soldered at both areas where it passes
      through the chassis.   

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