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Dual Star are a major sponsor of the TwoWheelWandering project.  They've set themselves up to be a one-stop shop supplying many aftermarket items a weekend warrior or world tourer needs to improve their dual purpose bike.  Mike Walburn works hard to provide a quality product, and is constantly innovating, testing and refining.  Here's a list of the their products I'm using, and why I'm using them for a RTW tour. 

Check out their full catalogue at www.dual-star.com

Clicking on the image will take you to the relevant Dual Star page; clicking on the products name will take you to a more detailed description with long term test reports.
KLR Tankbag - For the first time ever, the KLR now has a proper tankbag built specifically to fit its tank; All others that have come before have been a compromise fit for many bikes.  This tankbag finally answers all the problems I've had with tankbags I've tried for the KLR. (5 so far)  While I might be getting into my other luggage 2 or 3 times a day, I'm using my tankbag all the time, so its very important it does everything I want it to.  Click on the link for more info...
Centrestand - The centrestand makes working on the bike for tyre changing, chain lubing, chain adjusting, spoke tightening, wheel truing  etc a whole lot easier.  Dual Star's centrestand is solid and doesn't interfere with the stock sidestand.  Proping up the bike on the sidestand might work on the trail, but gets old fast when you're doing it often.  I'm using mine all the time.  Click on the link to find out how to use it to break the bead.
Super Battery - This is the new style of absorbed glass mat battery (AGM) - its a sealed lead acid, where the electrolyte is held in glass fibre mats between the plates.  It's superior to a regular lead acid in almost every way - more starting current, more reserve current, better cold performance, unspillable, much better charge acceptance, lower self-discharge....A no-brainer for me, especially since I've upgraded my electrics, running higher loads, and still can't seem to find the kickstarter on my bike.
Pumpguard - This piece protects the vulnerable water pump, especially its inlet and outlet points, which, if damaged, would be very hard to repair, leaving you stranded.
Radiator guard   The KLR is a watercooled bike - this gives better performance by allowing closer tolerances, but also creates the Achilles' heel of the unprotected, delicate radiator.  Damaging this little item is another showstopper on a tour, and I wouldn't want to be trusting one of these in any postal system.  Pick up an empty one if you ever get the chance - its scary how little material these things are composed of - had me running for the kid gloves.  Dual Star's guard is the first one properly buillt using solid mounting points.
Liteguard - Easy way to protect your main source of illumination.  Although I'm carrying additional lighting, my main headlamp is still my main light..  A broken one of these is a royal pain in the arse, and expensive to replace.  Grid guards look very Paris Dakar but cut down on light level if the grid is small enough to stop the all the rocks of the size you need to.  They also make it hard to clean the light of bugs and dust, which will drop your light output real quick.  The Liteguard means you can wipe off the dirt in a second.
Monster Tubes - The best way to resist punctures.  4mm tube is a lot less likely to get spiked than a regular tube.  I went off Slime after having to clean out my tire after a nail-shredded tube dumped it everywhere.  Easy in a garage, a huge pain to do on the road - and forget patching.  Other guys doing RTW trips have recommended the same to me.  I find these tubes make tyre changing even easier and have less chance of pinching.  Too big for spares, though - carry regulars for that.
Alloy Rim Locks - If you'r going to be dropping your tire pressures, you need these to ensure your tire doesn't slip, and rip out your valve stem.  Easy to do with a torquey motor like the KLR's.  Piece of mind when you spend days or weeks riding with reduced tyre pressures, and essential in sand.
Brake bracket - A definite bummer if you break the original - you're probably going to do it in the dirt too, where most breaks happen.  Which brake do you use almost all the time in the dirt?  Thats right - the rear. 
Master cylinder protector - take a good look at the plastic piece in the rear of the master cylinder - you'll want one of these guards too.
Tamper Resistant Filler Cap - Often in 3rd world countries, you'll come back to your bike to find EVERYTHING has been fiddled with by young hands - its natural curiosity at work, and there's not much you can do to prevent it, save covering your bike every time you get off it.  The oil filler cap on the KLR is at kiddie height and looks like a big black knob that screams 'turn me'.  The keychain wrench means you don't have to pull out your tool kit to add oil. 
Subframe upgrade kit -I know about this one - some expert 3rd world welding managed to extract the broken pieces of my original subframe bolts in the middle of nowhere in Guatemala - I was very lucky.  Especially if you're carrying heavy luggage, you NEED this.  Very strong but you'll only ever to fit this once.
Lifetime Stainless Filter - When you're on tour, oil filters may be light but they take up precious room - and you'd better not run out.  This one works better anyway.   Cut a plastic coke bottom off, fill about 3/4 inch deep with your favourite solvent, place the filter in laterally and spin it like a mouse wheel.  Unless you have some kind of problem, it doesn't have to be spotless - the majority of crud will do.  DON'T wash any back inside - it will have to go through the full system again to reach the filter.
Bashguard - I've banged mine enough times to bend it in places.
Usually on hotel stairs more than rocky trails.
Vibration resistant mirrors - These won't give you crystal clear vision - hey, its still a thumper, and they call them that for a reason..  But way better than stock.
Modified shift lever - Simple but effective, this will prevent the lever punching a hole in the case - save messing around with JB weld and chewing gum, which is how I know one guy patched a hole in his crankcase.
Serrated pegs - The rubber pegs are dangerous in dirt and in the wet - these feel much better.  I don't think a dual sport bike should come stock with rubber pegs - but if Kawi did things right it'd be boring, and Dual Star would be out of a job.
Locking axle nuts- save messing about with clips and pins.
Replacement fork boots - I had to duct tape my originals after they deteriorated and tore - it works but why not just replace them before they expose your forks to dirt and mud.  A fork seal is a time consuming replacement anywhere...assuming you've got the replacement seal, that is.
Twin Air filters - work much better than stock from what I've seen.  I carry a spare, pre oiled and compressed to about the size of a matchbox..  You'll thank yourself a million times when you need to change it in a pinch.
Re K&N - According to the manufacturer, there is NOTHING that you can use in the field to replace the K&N oil - proper filter oil is best for foam but you can always use motor oil.
Gel Grips - Reducing vibes means longer miles with more fun.  I used to use the fatter ones but these fit my paws better - I prefer the feel for off road too.  Note - the fatter ones seem to last longer and transmit heat better if you're running heated grips.  Dual Star has both of them - either is sooo much better than the stock.
Aluminium cooling fan blade -I have heard too many stories of these fans doing themselves in - and the KLR's fan works a lot in slow riding, congested traffic, and any lengthy idle period.  This is a key part of the whole water-cooled formula.  If this isn't enough to satisfy you - click the pic and see what the replacement cost for one of these is.  I almost crapped myself.
Front/rear braided brake lines - Replace the stock lines for the same reason everyone does - the KLR's braking is a well known weak point and needs all the help it can get.  If you're travelling loaded or two up, and you prefer straight forks and a relaxed sphincter, you just gotta change them.
Rally Pro handguards - Carry a whole bunch of levers or get these - the stock ones aren't enough.  The aluminium bar will bend if hit hard enough, but can be bent back.  Not doing hard woods riding?  Doesn't matter - if your bike goes over for whatever reason, or gets hit by something else, your bars are going to catch it every time.
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