GLUE CLAMP
FOR PNEUMATICS
PAGE ONE - CONSTRUCTING PNEUMATIC GLUE CLAMP
This is a clamp I use to hold the pneumatic in the closed position while the hot hide glue dries. If the hinge does not dry in the closed it will be cloth bound, the cloth will have to streach each time the pneumatic closes. This also insures that the hinge end is glued together firmly. I also use a thin artists brush to apply a line of thinned white glue (I thin it about 50%) to the exposed hinge material before gluing the rubber cloth on the pneumatic. Be CAREFUL here, do not get any on the board edges. You only need a small amount of thin glue, just enough to wet the pillow ticking hinge material. Let it dry, this will keep the hot hide glue from soaking into the hinge and causing the pneumatic to become hinge bound. I layout in pencil the exact span and length of the strips of rubber cloth on the work table. I mark the center of the length of the strips with a pencil line. I then cut all the strips to size with a straightedge and razor blade. I stack the strips rubber side down. I then lay a strip on a piece of felt and after gluing the open board ends I press the open pneumatic onto the rubber cloth, aligning to the edges for span and to the pencil mark for center, aligning by eye. I do it this way because, for me, it is faster and I don't have to mess with a span guage. There is enough mess with the glue and anything you use eventually gets poluted with it. It also eliminates extra cloth at the open end of the pneumatic that tends to pooch at the corners. I then glue the sides and hinge end, smooth the cloth around, then close the pneumatic, rub the edges down and place the pneumatic in the clamp while I glue the next one. When I am done with that one I remove the previous one from the clamp, place it under a weight , (just heavy enough to keep it closed), move the one under the weight to a box and replace the pneumatic in the clamp with the one just glued etc. etc. etc. This procedure is not absolutely necessary, there are other ways that work too. This just happens to be the way I have found that works best for me. It is a process that just evolved. Everyone has his or her own way and if you are new to this you will find the way that works best for you. The important things are to keep your glue at the proper temperature and consistancy, don't overglue the hinge end and cause the pneumatic to become hinge bound (hard to close), do use felt dots inside the pneumatics to keep them from taking a hard crease, keep the pneumatic closed during the glue drying process. There are other subjects concerning pneumatics that will be discussed later, I have already gotten off the track here.
The construction of the clamp is very simple and can be made from scraps laying around the shop. The groove in the bottom side of the top board keeps the board in alignment, the pin is extra to keep the board from slipping off the back board, in practice it is not needed. The center board is adjusted to about 1/2" less than the length to the pneumatic, this only requires a small amount of spread
to open the clamp and insert the pneumatic. The alignment and dimensions are just about right for small pneumatics and motor pneumatics. The alignment of the spring will have to be worked out for the particular spring you use. The main thing is to keep the pressure light, just enough to hold the pneumatic closed and press the ends. The felt on the top and bottom board is medium thick and lightly glued. The felt can be changed easily after each restoration. A piece of leather is glued between the top board and the foot. The clamp can be operated by spreading one hand between the two boards, raising the top board which allows you to insert the next pneumatic.
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ELECTRIFICATION
