News from Kefalonia.

By Sue Thompson.

Art and entertainment. August has begun and the run up to the islands biggest festivals, Panayia and Saint Gerasimos is well and truly under way, with concerts taking place all over the island including rock festivals on the beaches of Myrtos and Trapezaki. Exhibitions such as the 'Ode to the Rock of Kefalonia' in the Kourkoumelata cultural centre displaying some amazing natural stone sculptures which allow you to feel the differing textures within these intrinsic giants, tops of wells, troughs, windows along with old stone arches and walls of the islands nostalgic past.

'Ode to the stone of Kefalonia'

v:shapes="_x0000_i1025">'An ancient oil and wine press'

In Poros an exhibit by the South African artist Cecily Dodwell's view of Kefalonia. Cecily has live on the island since 1998 in the small hamlet of Korianna. Within that short time she has been trying to capture and record in her paintings of oil, pastel and fine linear drawing all in an excellent graphical technique, the ruins and grandeur of Kefalonia's pasts. At the opening of the exhibition Cecily firstly apologized for not speaking Greek and then moved on to thank the islanders who had helped and supported her work. She then read a short poem regarding the painter Turner explaining -

'The only thing that art is about is light,

all good painting should be able to breathe.'

Her work ranged from 10,000 drachmas for sketches from her drawing book. Icons from the various Monasteries 65,000 drachmas. To paintings of the film set in Sami which were on sale at 70,000 drachmas.

Caught Out Maybe? On our way back from Poros after attending the above exhibition. On August 9th at approximately 12.15am the villages of Markopoulo were out in force, torches in hand frantically searching the slopes. Something very odd is happening I thought! For those of you who don't know a few days before Lady Day 'Panagia' on August 15th, diminutive harmless snakes make their appearance. They slither through the street on their way to the church, gliding in and around the old bell tower even climbing up to the silver icon of the Virgin. The faithful pick them up and stroke them, as the locals consider this a good omen for the coming year, declaring that these tiny reptiles failed to appear during the war years and August of 1953, when the earthquake struck. As if by magic after the service is over they disappear, back to their nests. So! Why at midnight on the August 9th where the inhabitants of the village of Markopoulo out and about torches held aloft? Just improving the odds - I hope!

Weather Problems. Thankfully the ensuing weather since the 'heat waves' has abated and the island has now cooled down. Unfortunately we are momentarily experiencing high winds which have been causing problems all over Greece, in particular fueling a few unpleasant fires which the Fire Fighters and volunteers have had to deal with. Fires have broken out more in the south this year than other parts of the island. The surrounding area of Poros suffered a few weeks ago a very bad fire on Kokkini Raxi which was dealt with quickly and effectively by the ground grew as well as the helicopter crew, who are now able to pick up water from the reservoir in Tzannata when the winds out to sea are too strong. Only for the supply to be depleted a few weeks later when a further fire broke out and blazed for 48 hours around Kornellos, ancient Pronni, Asprogerakas, and Agios Georgios.

v:shapes="_x0000_i1026">

'More fire destruction'

v:shapes="_x0000_i1027">

'Putting out the flames'

Tempers Rising. Not only has the weather fueled the flames on the island, but one or two other issues have began to engulf the Kefalonians and tourists alike.

Firstly, one of two decisions which have arisen this year, the construction of the marina in Agia Efimia that is still in progress and causing great problems. The digging up of the small quayside road for new pipework, the building of a harbour wall and the enlargement of the quayside, is not only providing a layer of dust on everyone's table, be it in a taverna or one of the harbour cafés, bakery, supermarket or rented apartments, but is also providing cause to complain heavily about the lack of judgment that seems to go into such schemes. Hosing down with water everyday is not helping the dust, which flies up into the face and eyes of whoever is passing.

For the past few years it has been "Welcome to the building site of Lassi for your holiday." Now it is the turn of the beautiful resort of Agia Efimia. A discussion of planning works, a time schedule, and a good deal of forethought last summer would have helped, I'm sure!

Secondly to commence work on new kerbs (sidewalks) from Frangata to the Monastery of Saint Gerasimos a few weeks prior to the Saint's festival celebrations just simply defies all logic. I am the first to admit however, that they are working long hours to try to complete the work ASP. But please - give me a break here, this can not be a spur of the moment plot, just to cause as much inconvenience as possible.

Whose Island Is It Anyway? Last but not least 'the' film, yes you've guessed it, Captain Corelli. Firstly can we please get one thing straight, this is NOT Corelli's island this is:-

The Island of Kefalonia

FULL STOP.

If it's anyone's island it belongs solely to the Kefalonian people past, present and future. Not to the Turks, the Venetians, nor the British, the Romans, the Franks, the Prussians, the Spanish or anyone else that has tried to take it for their very own.

How has anyone had the audacity to allow this fictitious character to come and take over not only the lives of many who obviously have not got the capability of even finding a more adventurous name for their business than 'Corelli's taverna - café - bar' or whatever. And in turn those who have become so greedy that I quote -

" I am ashamed to be Greek, places such as Fiskardo, Assos and of course Sami are (and have been all of this season) charging astronomical prices for food, drinks etc. I am sorry but they are just dumping on the back of this film and I for one will not be coming back.'"

That statement has been quoted to me by not only the Greek people here on vacation but also the first time tourist to the island. Even the regular devout holidaying 'Grecophiles' who return again and again, year after year.

Fraudulent? One of the worst insults has been committed by a small number of producers of postcards. Printing photographs of the film set and selling them as 'Old Argostoli' this I really have to take offence at. What of the unsuspecting who spend their well earned money on a holiday, maybe only once in a year. Coming to see these wonderful old buildings to be duped as Argostoli looks. Are the 18 year old representatives of their holiday company going to hoodwink them in to thinking - "That was what Argostoli looked like before the earthquake of 1953."

Oh no it didn't!!!!!!

v:shapes="_x0000_i1028">

'Two of the postcards in question.'

Help Me Please.. If this pattern of things continues, I for one might seriously think about re-titling my books 'The Way To Go On Sri Lanka' and not 'Kefalonia'

Talk to you again soon - Adio

Sue and Ian Thompson - Kefalonia.

E-Mail:waytogo@otenet.gr