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After many questions about casting and molding I decided to finally put together this tutorial. I am by no means an expert, if anything I probably have no clue what I'm doing but here it is--and keep in mind that what I'm writing here is not the only avenue. This is just a method that has worked for me and the materials that I use. I suggest that before you try this you do some homework and a bit of research. There are many GREAT TUTORIALS on the internet. I will try to find some and post them at the conclusion of this article. I'm not especially fond of reading directions and pictures really help me out a lot so I took lots of pictures--if for anyone's help, mine. My best advice for success in this vein of hobby builders is the experiment and don't become discourage because with each mistake comes knowledge. Just do it! And it did take me a year before I finally took that advice to try it; but in that year I did a lot of reading and asked a lot of questions. Good Luck!

Materials Needed:

Rubber Gloves: you can get these probably anywhere. If you are allergic to latex you can latex free. Cost for about 100 is around $14.00.

popsicle sticks: I pick these up at a hobby supply store like Michaels or Hobby Lobby but you can also order them online too.

Allumilite Mold Release Powder: I cannot remember where I found this item but you can also use any talc powder because that's all it is.

Alumilite Regular Casting Resin: White, 28oz: I get this online at Hobby Engineering for $30.25. It's not cheap! And it goes really fast which is good because if you keep it on hand for too long it will go bad.

Garbage bag: I find that this is a messy project so I usually lay out one of these plastic garbage bags on my work station and when I'm done it just all rolls up and can easily get tossed into the trash.

2 types of plastic cups: I use like the one ounce measure cups to pour the resin in before mixing. These cost about $6.oo for 100 cups. The larger cups I found at Albertsons and these work good for mixing the resin in before pouring.

Fan Brush: I use this brush to powder the mold but any brush would work fine.

Get all this stuff together before you start. You don't want to be rushing around while the resin is setting up to find stuff.

Set up your workstation: Oh, did I forget, you need to have plenty of beverage on hand to assist in this process. For me, my choice is Diet Coke.

I normally like the resin A to be on the right side of the resin B. When I pour multiple molds I can resure the measuring cups. Don't pour resin B into the resin A cup.

Step 1: Powder your mold

I like to use a fan brush for this step but any brush will be fine. Dip the brush into Alumilite Mold Release Powder or any talc powder

and liberally powder the inside of your mold. Don't be afraid to use too much powder you will tap out any excess before pouring the resin.

Step 1: Powdering mold continued

After liberally powdering your mold turn it around so that all the cracks will be coated real good--then tap out the extra. Get out as much that you can. There should still be enough talc in the mold to reduce the tension between the mold and the resin, thus reducing the amount of air bubbles forming in your casted piece.

Step 2: Pour and measure Resin

You need to use your own judgement on how much resin you'll need to pour. For me,

20 ml. Of each resin side A and side B works for me when I'm casting a 1:6 head sculpt.

Make sure you have equal amounts of each side, if not the resin will not cure properly. I find that there is room for error.

Pour the resin into a larger mixing cup. Use something that you can toss away after pouring.

Step 2: Mix Resin

Depending on the kind of resin you use, the time you can mix will vary. For the type of resin I've recommended, I usually stir and count to around 50. Be sure you get this stuff mixed up good enough but don't go so crazy with it that you will create air bubbles.

I keep a space on my work station to store all the used cups and popscicle sticks. That way you won't have them laying all over the place getting in the way.

Step 4: Pour Resin into powdered mold

Pour about Half of the resin that you mixed into your mold. Try to pour with the smallest stream that you can. Next use a something to probe problem sports to get out the air bubbles, I sometimes use a popscicle stick (thanks to M.A.COLE for this fine tip)--I find that the ears are the worst spot so poke those areas good! Nostrils are next so get them too. Don't over do it though. Just probe those areas and then maybe twirl the mold gently to distribute the resin into different nooks and crannies. Set the mold onto a flat surface and then pour in the rest of the remaining resin till the entire cavity is full.

Sometimes I use the popscicle stick again to clear out any air pockets in the chin area. I like to squeeze the mold gently too. Watch the resin till it starts to cloud over. It's probably getting hot now, that's the catalyst in the resin doing it's work.

Use your thumb to press the resin inward. Don't to this too soon. You can also test the temp. of the resin when you do this. Don't demold your casting too soon (when it's hot). Wait till it's fairly cool to remove.

Step 5: Remove resin casting.

When the resin has hardened and it has cooled down you can open the seam in your mold and take a look. If it looks good then it's time to pull it out.

Step 6: Admire your work

All that remains is to drill a hole in the neck post and paint! Wait till the resin has completely cured before you do this. Probably a day is a good wait but sometimes I am impatient. To drill the neck post I use a drimil Here is another great tip I got from M.A.COLE: While drilling the neck post set up a vacuum to pull in the flying resin dust. If you don't do this you will get that white resin powder dust EVERYWHERE. I also suggest you use protection for your eyes and mouth.

Well, that's it I do believe!! Please email me if you have any questions. I'd really appreciate that, and your feedback will help me with refining this article.

GOOD LUCK!