Köln
Köln is the German name for Cologne, which was occupied by the French for a few years after the French Revolution. The French organized the city into divisions and, in divison no. 4711, there was a family who produced scented water, which became known as "eau de cologne." It was not until I saw bottles marked "Kölnisches Wasser" in a curio shop in downtown Köln that I began calling this city "Köln".
It somehow felt rude to associate this beautiful city with a frivolity associated with eau de cologne. Most people might think that eau de cologne is a French formula for a fragrance but it is not; this fragrant water was originally made in Köln. Kölnisches Wasser = eau de cologne = agua de colonia (my grandmother's favorite) = low grade perfume. For me, Köln would always be associated with the "Dom", the gothic cathedral in Köln, and the Hauptbahnhof (central train station) that is right next to the cathedral. On the other side of the Dom is a museum and the shopping districts frequented by tourists. This is probably the busiest area in Köln, especially at the height of the summer holiday season.
In the summer of 2002, much of the stone "lacework" of the Dom was sooty black with the accumulation of dust and other pollutants. Even so, its beauty stood out even from afar; its silhoutte graceful and majestic even when viewed from the Seilbahn.
There is always something new to look at or study in the Dom, or something one didn't notice before in the little nooks and corners inside, or in the rich carved doors. In the plaza in front of the Dom is a model of the main steeple, giving tourists a chance to study the details of what they wouldn't see except in books. Entrances are deeply recessed with an elaborate arch, below which are heavy wooden doors, reinforced by metal, copper perhaps, and the elaborate carvings depict characters and scenes from the New Testament
To the right of the main entrance of the Hauptbahnhof is a café that puts out tables in summer where one can have a meal or a snack while gazing at the Dom or simply watch people of all shapes, size and color as they pass. One could always tell who are trying to catch a train and those who are simply taking a stroll. Between the Hauptbahnhof and the Dom are small stalls that sell roasted chestnuts, boiled sweetcorn, and the ubiquitous hotdog and coke. My favorite, though, is the stall where they make Reibekuchen and , a potato pancake that is almost like the Filipino "maruya" but is lightly seasoned with onions and a bit of herb and spice. This is also the stall where we are always sure to find "Krakauer", a sausague that combines the best of the hotdog and the Lucban longganisa.
As in many cities and towns in Germany, one might find a cozy café that is right beside what remains of an ancient tower. It was a hot afternoon and seeing the tables under leafy trees made Rolf decide to have a cold drink before taking the commuter train to get to the other side of the Rhine where we thought the city zoo is located.
The old tower was built of stone on which were etched designs that must have been centuries old and, amazingly, the colors were still recognizable as reds and greens. It was just as well that we took a little snack with our cold drinks because it took us an hour to figure out how to get to the Zoo. But that was alright too because the commuter trains were always right on schedule, which also means that, like the tide, "a train waits for no man."Köln would probably always be a halfway point for us when we take a summer holiday in Germany, but it would always be fascinating because it it is a city that exhibits the continuum of centuries past that meld right into the new millennium.
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