.
Gazing out through the glass-walled
enclosure of the Hotel Nacional I feel very safe. Behind me was the main swimming pool beside
which I had come to spend my last day in Havana. It was to be a period luxuriating in the
ambience of a world-class establishment, lunch included, for a mere fifteen
U.S. Dollars. The day passed quietly, the sun forever on the pool as I dipped
in and out at leisure, refreshing myself in the water, which was icy at first
touch. This was a world away from the hustle
(literally) and bustle of Central Havana. There was no escape from the heat and
every few minutes a cigar tout would ask the inevitable question, which always
included the words ‘Cohiba’ or ‘Montechristo’. As I approached cab ranks the words
‘Taxi…Taxi…Taxi…Taxi…Taxi…Taxi…’ fluttered at me like tiny birds escaping from a cage. This word had assumed the proportions of a
congenital nervous reflex amongst members of the cab-drivers union. Then there were the prostitutes… As I
entered Havana Cathedral one hissed at me from behind a pillar. Initially it
was to get my attention, but when I continued to ignore her it degenerated into
derision. My thoughts cleared and as I looked out
through the wall I could see the Gulf of Mexico as it smashed its waves against
the concrete defence known as The Malecon. It was built in 1901 and, at over
twelve Kilometres, is one of the longest promenades in the world. Swimming off there was a different matter
altogether. For a start there is an eight-foot drop to
a lower, narrow ledge. The wall on the seaward side is difficult to negotiate
because it is concave in structure. However, I placed my backside on the very
edge, used my arms and hands for support as I sprayed my legs and feet below
and under, trying to get as far down the concave surface before making a last
small jump to land. It felt a bit scary at first because it could be so easy to
sprain an ankle. Getting back up was, perhaps, even more
difficult. There is a series of drainage holes running the length of the wall
about three feet up from the narrow ledge. They do make great footholds but
once you get you’re arms and hands onto the surface at the top make sure you
splay them before levering yourself up. There are no bars or railings to get a
grip of and a fall back onto the concrete ledge is not recommended! Swimming off The Malecon will remain one of
the best memories of my stay in Havana. Take only the essentials: trunks, towel,
tee shirt and plastic jellybean sandals to be kept on whilst swimming; also for
protection against the sharp coral and crustaceous growths which cover the
lower ledge from which you go into the water. Be prepared to be pestered by young people
of whom there are a lot of groups on the Melcon. Some will be genuinely
friendly, others will just want money and that’s is a good reason for not
taking any with you when you go the swim. The most any opportunists will be
able to take from you will be your towel and tee shirt. The water is silky and warm. The current
gentle. I am not a strong swimmer but I felt confidant hear. So confident that
one evening a young man with a fishing line was having difficulty getting the
hook to float out to sea, the current persistently nudging it back to shore. As
I was the only person in the water he asked if I would swim out wit it. Taking
the baited hook in hand I went right from the shore and well out of my depth.
The hook stayed well out and I never enjoyer doing anything as much in my life
before. As I strolled back to Raul and
Magaly's apartment, the night quickly
closing in, I felt that returning to Havana was a distinct possibility at some
time in the future.
I HAVE NEVER BEEN IN A CITY WITH SUCH A
FORCEFUL PERSONALITY AND ATTITUDE.
I HAVE NEVER BEEN IN A CITY WITH SUCH A
FORCEFUL PERSONALITY AND ATTITUDE.