When you list its assets, Guatemala seems to be one of the best travel destinations in Central America: the stunning Maya ruins at Tikal, the well-preserved colonial city of Antigua, a vibrant indigenous culture, active volcanoes, highland lakes, exotic wildlife. But getting to these gems and safely enjoying them makes the country a

Guatemala City

Chaotic, congested and polluted, GUATEMALA CITY is in many ways the antithesis of the rest of the country. The capital was moved here in 1776, after the destruction of Antigua, but the site had been of importance long before the arrival of the Spanish. Now the largest city in Central America, its shapeless and swelling mass, ringed by shantytowns, is home to over three million people – about a quarter of Guatemala's population – and the undisputed centre of the country's politics, power and wealth. Sprawling across a sweeping highland basin, surrounded on three sides by low hills and volcanic cones, the city has an intensity and vibrancy that are both its fascination and its horror, and for many travellers a trip to the capital is an exercise in damage limitation, struggling through a swirling mass of bus fumes and crowds. However, after all these years of neglect and decay, efforts are being made by a small group of conservationists to preserve what's left of the historic centre, Zona 1, and a smattering of fashionable new cafés and bars, popular with students, have opened in restored buildings the heart of the city. Like it or not – and many travellers don't – Guatemala City is the crossroads of the country, and you'll certainly end up here at some time, if only to hurry between bus terminals or negotiate a visa extension. Once you get used to the pace, it can offer a welcome break from life on the road, with cosmopolitan restaurants, cinemas, shopping plazas, a couple of good museums and metropolitan culture. And if you really can't take the pace, it's easy enough to escape: buses leave every few minutes, day and night. Information by Rough Guides

Guatemala City became the capital after Antigua Guatemala had been destroyed by an earthquake in 1776. With a population of around 3 million people, Guatemala City is the largest city in Central American and the country's (only) center for finance and politics. Although noisy, polluted and commonly considered as unattractive by guidebooks, it can be interesting to visit "Guate" - as it is also called by the locals. Guatemala City has attractions and restaurants, often with few tourists. And attending a Sundays evening gathering of hundreds of locals at the main plaza is certainly an unforgettable experience. Moreover the city makes up for its problems with several interesting museums and some of the best restaurants in the country — and being the crossroads for the entire country, you're bound to end up here at some point.

Plaza Obelisco looking north

The city is divided into 21 zones (zonas). Zona 1 is the old historic center. Here you'll find the national palace, the presidential palace, the cathedral, the main plaza. South of Zona 1 is Zona 4 where many of the official buildings are situated, like the national bank, the national theatre, the tourist board (INGUAT). Further south is Zona 10 and Zona 9, divided by Avenida La Reforma. Zona 10 hosts most of the high class hotels, restaurants, bars, shopping facilities. A small part of Zona 10 is called Zona Viva (the lively zone) because of its nightlife. The common way to get around in Guatemala City is by bus or taxi. Hardly no-one walks (people might find it odd if you do). Traveling inside the city by bus costs Q1.00 (a few routes costs Q1.10 (you'll see a sign in the window of the bus), and everybody charges Q1.25 on Sundays). The buses run from early morning till about eight in the evening. It is not advisable to take the bus after dark. Also, robbery on the buses is quite common (statistics from 2003 shows around 60 robberies per day).

Parque Central and Palacio Nacional