2LTransplant2

So it begins. First, unless you don't have any need of your vehicle during the prep stage, get the short block ready and gather all tools and parts.
   On the block, plug off each opening. Leave the 2L distributor in place. I placed masking tape over the cyclinders. At the oil filter, as you can see in the picture, I stuck ear protection plugs into the oil passages. They will expand to seal the area and are re-usable for whatever your working on.
    From the Techtonics block off kit, tap in the freeze plugs into the crank trigger hole and the larger hole on the front of the block as well as bolting on the block off plate. Both freeze plugs are visible in this picture. One just to the left of the coolant hose, and one just below and to the right of the distributor.
   I used a socket of approximately the same size of the plug to tap them in. The smaller of the two went in relatively easily but I find the larger one much more difficult. It may have just been my block and plug, but I found that the I had to use a smaller size socket on the inside of the plug instead of just tapping the rim of the plug.
   The block can then be thoroughly cleaned without the possibility of getting crumbs in your block. I used the engine degreaser you can get at Costco with the spray bottle. I sprayed everything down then scrubbed everything with the brushes. Keep a hose at hand to wash whatever you need.
   Now that the block is ready, you can start on the old motor. If you have A/C, the prudent thing to do is go down to a place that does A/C and have the system purged of refrigerant. Then all disassembly can get started at home, first by DRAINING THE OIL!!!!.
   As each item is disassembled, place the nuts, bolts, and assorted goodies in the Zip-Lok bags marked with the item being taken apart. Any hoses that are removed need to be plugged with the vacuum plugs or ear plugs to assure no grit will be gathered. I took off the air flow sensor, intake hose, and battery. Fold back any wires removed so they are our of the way.
Though they go back together relatively easily, if you want to remove any doubt, mark each wiring harness with tape as to where it attaches before you remove it. Then disconnect all wiring harnesses from the motor. Remove spark plug wires and cap as one unit so you don't have to worry about the order later.
   Remove the alternator and A/C compressor after the system is purged, plugging everything as you go. Regarding the power steering pump, I just disconnected the pump and folded it back, not undoing any hoses. This makes a clean disconnect and reconnect without any messes. I nylon zip tied the pump to the left bumper bracket.
   Remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold. I would probably remove the intake and then just spray down the exhaust bolts with WD40 or similar product and leave it over night then remove it.
   Place a bucket or pan below the lower coolant hose and disconnect it, releasing the coolant. Once most of the coolant has drained, start disconnecting the coolant hoses from the top down. As each is disconnected, more fluid will drain out. This will be messy, so keep a hose handy to wash everything down. Disconnect the top radiator hose and all the wiring going to the radiator. Every thing just unplugs for the most part, so don't unscrew anything you don't have to.
   Removing the bumper is necessary. It was very easy for me to remove because my bumper cover just pulls off. Yours will probably be tightly snapped on, so I don't know how difficult this will be for you. Anyway, there are 6 bolts all together to remove before the bumper comes off.
   The only thing left will be the A/C condenser which is only readily accessable with the bumper removed. Using the correct size wrenches for BOTH sides of each connection, remove the hose from the evaporator on the left and the condenser on the drivers side. The whole radiator and support assembly is ready to be removed. Undo the two 10mm nuts under the front subframe, the four bolts at the fenders, and the single center bolt and remove the whole radiator and support as one unit.
   At this point in time, the motor should be sitting by itself free and clear. The only thing left attached should be the clutch cable, shift linkage, and CV joints. On the CV joints, you rotate the tires as you undo the bolts. There is a certain point where the socket fits easily, so this is the area that you will rotote to.   At this point in time, my car was up on jack stands, tires on. Because the tires will want to spin as you try to remove the bolts, place a block of wood in front of or behind the tire to stop it from rotating. Once the bolts are loostened completely from the tranny flange, just leave them in the joints. After disconnect these your motor should only be attached to the car with the motor mount on the front and right and left rear. Look all around the motor and make sure that is all that is left. One thing that isn't attached but will be in the way is the bracket for the power steering fluid reservoir. Remove it and eyeball that your path out of the car is free from obstacles.
   The mounts can now be undone. On the front, remove the short and long bolt under the front subframe and just loosen the top nut. Undo and remove the tranny mounting bolt at the back drivers side. I have an additional bracket on mine that triangulates to the end of the tranny. Remove these to bolts as well if you have them. It will just make removal easier. Then get the engine picker attached and just tightened until the weight is off of the mounts. I bought a two foot length of high strength chain and three shackles of the same size from a hardware store. Keep in mind that the shackles have to be able to fit through the holes in the head and alternator bracket.
    I didn't center the motor lift on the chain because you don't really want the whole thing to come out level. You would like the tranny side to sit a little lower then the motor side so as you remove the motor, you can extract it at kind of an angle.
   So, with the motor just slightly lifted, remove the last bolt going through the right rear mount and once again make sure there is nothing attached to the motor/tranny. Your engine is now free to be removed. Place a rag over the tip of the tranny that is tucked under the frame rail. This will be the pivoting point of the engine and you don't want to scratch the paint. Another spot to put a towel is on over the framerail next to the pulleys. The pulleys could scratch the paint as the motor moves out.
    Jack it up a little more, and remove the front mount completely. Slowly pull the motor forward. Pull the motor as far straight forward as it will go. It will be hitting the front subframe. At this point, jack the motor up some more so the oil pan will clear and pull it completely out.
   So thats that. At this point you'll want to remove items that will be hard to get to once you've disconneted the engine puller. I would loosen the nuts that bolt the tranny to the engine, loosten the pulley bolts, anything that will require a lot of torque later.   If you have trouble getting stuff loose, email me with the problem, I have an answer.