draft9

DRAFT 9

Please note: black text is the basic document. Blue text denotes questions to be resolved. Red text denotes new items (Jan 2002).

Draft proposal for consideration of RSCN, RTC, MoT, ASEZA, BMC.

Wording, Zoning and Access Arrangements still to be agreed

Environmental and Safety Guidelines for
Climbing and Trekking in Rum National Park
Prepared for
The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature in Jordan
The Rum Tourism Cooperative
The Aqaba Economic Zone Authority
Produced in consultation with
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC)
in line with the strategies for access and conservation in climbing areas of
The World Conservation Union (IUCN).

1 Background
These guidelines are presented by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature in Jordan (RSCN), the Rum Tourism Cooperative (RTC) representing the people of Rum, and the Aqaba Economic Zone Authority (ASEZA) following consultation with regular international Wadi Rum climbers and trekkers and the British Mountaineering Council.

The purpose of the guidelines is to promote good practice amongst climbers and trekkers and to help protect the natural environment of the region and the livelihood of its indigenous people. The guidelines are based on two decades of collective experience and we strongly recommend that all visitors take careful note of them to ensure that Wadi Rum remains a unique and special area for climbers, trekkers, local people and wildlife.

2 Role and responsibilities of RSCN
The RSCN is a non-governmental organisation of international standing, devoted to the conservation of Jordan's natural environment. Created in 1966 under the patronage of His Majesty King Hussein, the RSCN has been given responsibility by the Jordanian Government for protecting the country's wild life and wild places and to promote a better understanding of Jordan's natural environment. The current Patron of the RSCN is Her Majesty Queen Noor who, for her international efforts, was also named the Patron of the IUCN in 1988. She has personally been very supportive of the development of climbing and trekking in Jordan.

As in other Protected Areas of Jordan, the RSCN's role in Wadi Rum is to:
Establish and manage the reserve to protect key habitats and species
Enforce Government Laws for the protection of wildlife and to eliminate illegal hunting
Seek a balance between the needs of wildlife and the needs of people through the development of conservation programmes designed to integrate environmental protection with the socio-economic development of local people and the expectations of visitors.

The RSCN accepts:
a) freedom of movement of the local people in accordance with their traditional lifestyle. This includes the use of motorised transport, now as traditional and essential to Bedouin life as the camel once was.

b) for visiting climbers and trekkers, freedom of access to the desert, canyons and cliffs and walking and climbing in a responsible and sustainable way that does not damage the natural environment are fundamental rights.

The above freedoms will remain in Wadi Rum, for both the local people and the visiting climbing community except in isolated cases, agreed as being absolutely necessary between the RSCN, the local people and the international climbing and trekking community.

The RSCN acknowledges that climbing, trekking and associated activities can offer significant input into the local economy particularly for the indigenous Bedouin people who rely on these specialist visitors as an essential source of income.

3 Wildlife in Wadi Rum
The desert and mountains of Rum are home to many species of flora and fauna, some rare or endangered. Endeavor not to disturb them. It would be useful if sightings of rare animals such as the ibex and Verroux Eagle were reported to the RSCN office in Rum, as a contribution to the ongoing scientific surveys being undertaken into Rum's endangered species

ROCK CLIMBING AND TREKKING IN WADI RUM
Local ethics and good practice recommendations

4 History of climbing
Modern rock climbing has developed in Wadi Rum since 1984 but some of the traditional Bedouin climbs date back thousands of years. The history and traditions of all climbs in Wadi Rum (especially the Bedouin climbs) should always be respected. The development of rock climbing and trekking in Wadi Rum and descriptions of routes are recorded in various guide books. (See details at the end of this leaflet.)

5 Style of climbing
The accepted practice in Wadi Rum is to use leader placed (i.e. ‘natural’) protection rather than fixed protection such as bolts and pitons. ‘Natural’ protection is much less intrusive to the landscape of Wadi Rum and fixed protection should be kept to an absolute minimum to preserve the ‘wilderness’ experience of this internationally important Protected Area.

6 Re-developing existing climbs
In general there should be no new fixed protection placed on existing rock climbs in Wadi Rum (i.e. no retro-bolting) particularly in ‘Wilderness’ areas and on Bedouin climbs. Climbs should retain their original character without the addition of extra safety equipment. Anyone considering re-equipping existing climbs should consult the first-ascentionists, local climbers (including regular overseas visitors and the Bedouin) and the RSCN to determine whether this would be acceptable.

7 New climbs
The development of new routes is the life-blood of the climbing sport. The challenge of making first ascents allows experienced climbers to fully explore not only the mountains, but also their own physical and mental capabilities. To preserve the mountain environment, first ascents should only be done in a ‘ground up’ style using ‘natural’ protection with no pre-fixing from above. Vegetation should not be destroyed to create a climb.

8 Fixed protection (‘bolts’ etc)
Every effort should be made not to place fixed protection (i.e. drilled placements, bolts, pitons and in-situ threads) in Wadi Rum. In emergency, this should be limited to an absolute minimum and should not intrude on adjacent routes. Furthermore, fixed protection should not be placed within view of the ground as it detracts from the wilderness experience of others, being unsightly and anomalous in the desert landscape. Any fixed gear that has to be placed should ideally be dark in colour, not polished metal, and should harmonise with the rock.

Fixed equipment (i.e. bolts, pitons and in-situ threads) is always necessary for abseil descents (though not all descents require abseils). In Rum, well placed bolts are often the best method for this purpose, both environmentally and for safety. Due to the nature of the rock, pitons tend to become loose and have to be replaced, scarring the rock. Due to strong sunlight and repeated use, slings rapidly deteriorate. Bolts placed for abseils should ideally be in couples, in good rock and fitted with chains and an abseil link, or large steel screw carabiner.

9 Use of power drills
The use of power drills is not permitted in the Protected Area as the noise detracts from the wilderness experience of others and can also disturb livestock, wildlife and local people. Special concessions may be granted for the fixing of abseil equipment (as per para 8).

10 Marking of treks, scrambles and climbs
Routes (whether walks or climbs) should not be marked with paint, graffiti, inscriptions or by any other means. Correctly placed existing cairns (small piles of stones) should be left in situ. Old ones should not be enlarged. The original cairns were placed by Bedouin and are still used by them. New cairns should not be built as they lead to confusion.

Many of the routes in Rum up to French 6b were first climbed without chalk. In keeping with this tradition, the inadvertent marking of climbs by chalk should be avoided wherever possible: chalk is considered by many to be unsightly on wilderness rock. Furthermore, it can detract from the adventurous nature of the climb, as its presence may indicate the way for subsequent ascentionists. Where the technical nature of the climb is not excessive, consider the challenge of a chalk-free ascent.

11 Descending from rock climbs
Due to the friable nature of the sandstone in Wadi Rum, climbers should take extreme care when abseiling from pitons, slings round 'rock threads' and other equipment - whether placed personally or by previous climbers. Descents from some of the most popular climbs are equipped with abseil chains for safety reasons. In the unlikely event that you find bolts and chains to be damaged please report this to a responsible person at the RSCN office. Many descents rely on slings and threads and it is the individual responsibility of all climbers to satisfy themselves that any such equipment (and the surrounding rock) is safe before using it. Please remove and replace any old slings and bring them back to the camp for disposal.

12 Wild camping & bivouacking
Overnight bivouacking is an integral part of the desert and mountain experience for climbers and trekkers. To sleep in the ‘wilderness’ is a privilege, so please do not abuse it. All litter should be carried back to the Rest House disposal site. Human waste should be buried deeply in the sand. The use of natural wood (for fires) should be avoided - it is better to use a camping stove. Charcoal (obtainable in Wadi Musa and proposed for sale in Rum Village) is also ideal. Never place your camp close to a Bedouin camp, unless given permission to do so by its occupants. See the notes on Protected Areas and further advice below.

13 Protected Zones in Wadi Rum
Climbers should respect the various special access arrangements for the ecologically sensitive zones shown on map XYZ that have been agreed by the RSCN, the Bedouin and regular local climbers. The fact that a route or area is in a guidebook does not automatically imply it is in an unlimited-access zone. Conversely, 'new routes' or routes as yet undiscovered, are not automatically restricted. Refer to the zoning map before planning your climb or trek and remember that tourist vehicles are only permitted on a few specific routes in 'wilderness zones'. The placing of drilled fixed equipment (bolts) by climbers is these zones is unacceptable.

The various zones are delineated as follows for recreation on foot (climbing and trekking):
Intensive use areas - unlimited access
Sensitive areas - monitored on-foot access, limited vehicle access
Wilderness areas - monitored on-foot access, minimal tourist vehicles

NB PLEASE NOTE IN ALL INSTANCES, ZONING PLANS AND ACCESS ARRANGEMENTS HAVE STILL TO BE AGREED BETWEEN RSCN, RTC AND THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY. See addendum below.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS AND EMERGENCY PROCEDURES

14 Hiring of guides
The RSCN accepts that for reasons of safety climbers and trekkers may directly hire a guide or guides of their choice with specific knowledge of climbing and/or trekking. Should none be available, a guide may then be chosen for this purpose by the visitor from the daily rota of desert safari guides.

15 Personal responsibility
Trekking and scrambling through rocky canyons in Wadi Rum can be very hazardous and climbing in Rum is particularly serious and committing. Climbers and trekkers should have sufficient experience to rescue themselves from all but the most complex situations. All climbers and trekkers are responsible for their own safety whilst in Wadi Rum. DO NOT attempt Bedouin routes or other climbs without adequate equipment, experience and good route finding ability. If in doubt, always hire an approved Bedouin climbing guide. Always carry plenty of water.

16 Rescue services
There is currently no official Rescue Team in the area and the local rescue equipment is inadequate, though action is being planned to remedy this situation. Bedouin climbers are always ready to volunteer their help in the event of an accident and a few have received limited rescue training in the UK. Visiting climbers are encouraged to assist with rescues whenever necessary.

17 Recording your itinerary/destination
It is essential that climbers and trekkers should leave details of their itinerary with a friend or other responsible person, and keep to it. Otherwise you should leave details firmly attached to your tent, in a visible place. The Rum desert and mountains are uniquely complex, the rock is friable and it is very easy to lose the way. Allow plenty of time for your planned route and ALWAYS check back in on your return.

18 Emergency procedures
In the event of a serious accident or emergency you should contact the local Bedouin Guides and the Tourist Police at the Rest House who will alert local volunteers, the Police Post, Civil Defence, Ambulance Service and, if necessary, the Royal Jordanian Helicopter squadron.

SOME DESERT AND MOUNTAIN TOURISM GUIDELINES

19 The environment
Before your visit, consider your inevitable environmental impact and think how you will minimize it. In particular:
Visual impact – fixed gear, climbers’ chalk, general erosion, litter and human waste, destruction of plants and timber.
Do not play loud music, which is disturbing to livestock, wildlife and local people.
The fragile desert environment finds it difficult to recover from abuse. Be aware of your actions. Attempt sympathetically and diplomatically to educate others – both visitors and locals. (For example, encourage your driver/guide not to drive off existing tracks, or leave litter.)
Make every attempt to minimize your impact and remove your litter (even that of others) from the deserts and mountains. If you must use toilet paper, burn it; preferably use water. Always bury human waste deeply (ask your trekking guide to bring a spade).

20 Respect the rights, customs and beliefs of the local people
Find out what they are and act accordingly:
in public places
in negotiations
when eating and drinking
when approaching a Bedouin camp
when visiting a home or camp
when taking photos
when in the presence of women
at water sources.

Always:
make sure you wear acceptable dress
be polite
make an effort to spend some time with local people so that you and they may benefit culturally from your visit.

21 For further information on cultural and environmental awareness
See the climbing and trekking guides to the area, which detail all known routes and provide other relevant information:
Treks & Climbs in Wadi Rum. Tony Howard. Published by Cicerone Press, UK.
Walks & Scrambles in Wadi Rum. Di Taylor & Tony Howard. Published by Jordan Distribution Agency.
Jordan – Walks, Treks, Caves, Climbs & Canyons. Di Taylor & Tony Howard. Published by Cicerone Press, UK.

Additional information on Rum National Park and/or the other National Parks in Jordan can be obtained from the RSCN office in Wadi Rum, or contact the RSCN Head Office in Amman:
Tel: 009626 5337931/2
Fax: 009626 53347411
Email: info@rscn.nets.com.jo
Ecotourism unit direct line, tel: 009626 5337610

This document was prepared with assistance from the BMC by Tony Howard & Di Taylor of n.o.m.a.d.s. (New Opportunities for Mountaineering, Adventure & Desert Sports). They were initially responsible for the development of climbing and trekking in Wadi Rum in 1984 with the sponsorship of Jordan’s Ministry of Tourism and the encouragement and participation of the RSCN and the Bedouin of Wadi Rum, all of whom they wish to thank.

Addendum
PLEASE NOTE IN ALL INSTANCES, ZONING PLANS AND ACCESS ARRANGEMENTS HAVE STILL TO BE AGREED BETWEEN RSCN, RTC AND THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY. (Items e and f are new.)
i. It is important that through routes for vehicles are allowed in 'wilderness zones' so that points beyond the wilderness zones are still accessible and that Bedouin are not stopped from using their traditional camps in any area in the way to which they have become accustomed.
ii. The professional local Bedouin guides currently use 'wilderness and sensitive' areas for trekking and camping. They are areas which they were born in and grew up in and in some instances their family camps are still there and the trekking groups have an opportunity to meet 'the real Bedouin'. These guides are environmentally aware and should not be stopped.
iii. The zoning around Jebel Rum and Jebel um Ishrin needs clarifying, as does the whole of the Jebel um Ishrin Massif from Jebel Makhras to Draif al Muragh and the whole of Wadi um Ishrin and its summits and side valleys (Siq um Ishrin for example). These are key areas for all users.
iv. Similarly the zoning of the Abu Khsheibah area from Burdah to Khazali needs discussing, together with the potential impact on traditional Bedouin camps, vehicle access for Bedouin, vehicle access for visitors travelling south to/from Jebel um Adaami, Jebel Suweibit, Wadi Salaada, Wadi Saabit etc and other users passing through the area - horse & camel safari, trekkers & climbers. It is a key area for all users.

v. It is understood that recent reported attempts by Rangers from the RSCN Office, Wadi Rum to prohibit climbing in all areas except Jebel Rum East Face and Barrah Canyon were made in error and are not RSCN policy. Also that attempts to stop Bedouin climbing guides being hired directly by climbers were made in error.

vi. Urgent clarification is also required on RSCN plans for camping. ‘Wild’ camping by climbers and trekkers should be considered a basic freedom and an intrinsic part of these activities. As such it enables an appreciation of the ‘wilderness’ not possible to organised Tourist Camps. Furthermore, as an essential part of the trekking and climbing experience, its continuation in Rum is essential for the economy of local climbing and trekking guides and the community in general.