PageEleven

WELCOME TO PAGE ELEVEN

Here is the beginning of the step plates. One of the plates (1/4 x 2 inch) with the holes will be welded to each side of the frame. The longer pieces are 3/8 x 1 inch steel will be formed as shown in the next picture.

The 3/8 x 1 inch strap has been cut and formed to the angle necessary to provide a step for the entrance to the vehicle.

The round pieces are cut from 1/4 inch plate and are approximately 4 inches in diameter.

Here are the completed step plates waiting to be installed on the frame.

The 1/4 x 2 inch plate has been welded to the frame and waits to have the step plate bolted in place.

The step plate has been bolted in place.

The step plate has been bolted in place.

The forward/reverse handle has been extended as has the brake lever. The final cuts will be made to fit the primary driver. The seat pad was borrowed from my other car for measurement purposes.

The forward/reverse handle has been extended as has the brake lever. The final cuts will be made to fit the primary driver. The seat pad was borrowed from my other car for measurement purposes.

This is the beginning of the seat arm brackets that will support the top. These pieces are made of 1/4 inch strap.

Here is the seat arm bracket that has been welded together.

Here is the seat arm bracket that has been welded together. It has been installed on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Here is the seat arm bracket that has been welded together. It has been installed on the passenger side of the vehicle.

This is the beginning of the brackets that will support the back of the seat. The angles will be formed to match the back of the seat.

These are the brackets that will support the back of the seat. They have been installed and bolted to the body.

The seat back has been installed on the brackets. It will be removed and upholstered later.

These small pieces are made from 3/16 x 2 inch strap. The cuts are made to allow one side to be ground and fitted into the "hammered" end of a piece of 1/2 inch electrical conduit.

The pieces made from the previous step are installed with a piece of 3/16 x 1 inch strap in the middle. This configuration will allow the top to be folded down flat to the rear.

The top rails are formed by bending 1/2 inch electrical conduit to the proper size. If in doubt or without a conduit bender, any electrician would be willing to help. Just mark the center of the conduit and then measure how far apart the bends need to be. The lenght of the inside bend is the same as the length between the sear arm top brackets.

These are two of the braces that will be needed to keep the top upright. The ends are hammered and then 1/4 inch holes drilled in the appropriate place.

Here you can see how the conduit ends fit down over the three pieces of 3/16 inch formed in the steps above. Holes will be drilled in the conduit/3/16 to keep the pipe from pulling off the brackets.
Small bolts and nuts will be installed to keep the conduit on the brackets.

The to rails have been drilled to accept the long piece of supporting conduit.

Notice the small piece of conduit near the top of the first and second rail. This helps keep the top from folding. To fold the top, simply remove the two straight pieces of conduit and fold backwards.

To Visit Page Twelve - CLICK HERE