THIS IS PAGE TWO

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Upper left corner are the four pillow block bearing which will hold the rear axles (drive axles) straight.  Upper right is the chain (too hard to see).  Lower left are two couplers which will  connect the transaxle to the two extensions.  Lower middle are two small sprockets which fit on the transaxle extensions.  The chain will connect these two small sprockets to the larger sprockets on the right.  The next pictures show the larger sprockets and where they will ultimately be welded to the two rear wheels.

This is the variable speed (automatic) transaxle.  Under the fan is the belt pulley that connects to the motor.  The two axles you see will be coupled to the extensions to make the width necessary to connect by chain to the rear wheels.  The transaxle will have forward and reverse.  Things should start happening now.

The transaxle has arrived.  It is a 4900-5 Hydrostatic Drive-Variable Speed made by Dana-Spicer.  Here you see it being held in place temporarily with rods and wires to check the placement both horizontally and vertically to the motor pulley.  Brackets will have to be fabricated to hold the transaxle in position once it is correctly aligned.

The transaxle is in position, the brackets have been fabricated and welded in position to the frame.  The transaxle is now bolted in its correct position.

Another view of the transaxle in position.  The brackets will look better when they are ground and painted.

This picture shows the relative position of the transaxle to the frame.  The shaft your see pointing toward you will be coupled to the sprocket which will drive the rear wheels.

The transaxle is now belted to the motor.  The idler pulley keeps tension on the belt but allows for quick replacement should it ever be necessary.

I am experimenting with your wheels.  Black was the original color - not chrome.  I think you will be very pleased with the wheels painted black and I intend to do my wheels in black as soon as I can.

Here are the springs.  One for each wheel and one for the turning dampner.  I am using buggy springs for your entire car, you will get a much softer ride, and they are cheaper than the others. Should it turn out to be too soft, we can always change them.

The spring shackle plates help to identify where the springs will "line-up" on the frame.

Here is the actual installation of the springs onto the frame.  The shackle plates built in the very beginning are now becoming useful.  The nut and bolt that holds the springs together is inserted into a small hole drilled in the frame - this keeps the springs from moving.  Pictured above are the two front springs.  The frame is upside down.

Here are the two rear springs mounted and bolted to the frame.  Remember the frame is upside down.

The axle has holes drilled at precise positions that center the axle on the frame and match the bolts that hold the springs together.  Again, this keeps the axles from moving.  Of course, the U-bolts built earlier will keep the axle connected to the springs.   This is the installation of the rear axle.

This is the front axle mounted to the springs.  The frame is still upside down.

I kept talking about shoulder bolts.  Here is a 3/4 inch by 4 inch shoulder bolt waiting to be welded to the square plate which in turn will be welded to the end of the rear axle.  The wheel will fit exactly on this shoulder bolt.  The blue bolts mentioned very early are being discarded in favor of the shoulder bolts.  Shoulder bolts are precision ground to fit bearing.

Here is a picture of the shoulder bolt clamped to the square plate waiting to be welded.  You can see that a shoulder bolt is a precision ground bolt that does not allow for any play on the rear wheel bearings.  I like to never found a place that would sell two bolts, W.W. Granger in OKC sells them but you have to buy 10 or 12 in a package.  They are about $6.00 each  so you see why I kept looking.

Again, here is the 3/4 inch by 4 inch shoulder bolt welded to its plate and the plate welded to the end of the rear axle.  All has worked so far.

Once the weld cooled, the rear wheel and sprocket were installed and "WOW" it rotates just like it is supposed to.  Now go on to page 3 by clicking on the item below.

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