OREGON, WASHINGTON, CALIFORNIA MAY/JUNE 2004

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Day One- We flew into PDX airport early in the day so we had the entire day to explore Portland. The first thing we wanted to do was eat lunch and find the infamous Powell's Books, the world's largest independent bookstore. After a quick bite, we spent a few hours searching thousands of new and used books and left with a stack of books to lug around for the rest of our trip. Note to travelers, hit Powell's last! The day of shopping continued at REI, an amazing store for outdoor enthusiasts. We took advantage of a summer sale and bought some gear at great prices (and no sales tax!). After we had spent more money in one day than we usually spend in a month, we decided it was time to hit the hotel. Always the budget travelers, we called around before finding the affordable and very nice, Hospitality Inn. We cannot recommend this hotel enough. They have a very kind and helpful staff, clean and comfortable rooms, and you can't beat the price.

Day Two- Our hotel was located conveniently near the way into the Columbia River Gorge.  There is a historical scenic highway which winds its way through the Gorge with incredible views - moss covered stone bridges, overlooks, and three or four waterfalls, including the double Multnomah Falls, seen here.  Also nearby was the Bonneville Dam and Fish Hatchery. We pressed on a bit further to Memaloose State Park, where we camped for the night.  It was a large park with many gorgeous views of the Columbia River.  Campers beware, the campsite is right on the railroad and it can get loud.

Day Three- We woke up early and enjoyed breakfast while watching the sun come up over the Columbia River. After attemping a shower and packing up our gear, we made the three hour drive to Mt. Rainier in Washington State. This was at the end of May, and the main roads to the park had just opened. It was freezing cold and raining, so we abandoned our plans to camp and hike there, instead we took a few photos, drove the long, winding mountain path to the visitor's center, and headed back out of the park to our hotel in Packwood, WA.  Our hotel was surrounded by a dozen or more grazing elk.  It wasn't the time of year for them to have large antlers, but they were nonetheless impressive.

Day Four- After a short time in Washington, we wound our way down to the northern tip of the Oregon coast. We spent a few hours exploring Astoria and Warrenton, checking out Astoria Column, and making use of the friendly and helpful staff at the visitor's center. These two small towns differed drastically from many other touristy coastal towns; they are both industrial fishing villages with a real feel to them. We really enjoyed our time in both towns and could imagine living there someday. That night we stayed at Fort Stevens State Park; due to pouring rain and tons of mosquitos, we decided to stay in a yurt instead of tent camp. It was probably our worst lodging on the trip, mosquitoes everywhere and freezing cold showers.

Day Five- We woke up to a dense fog that made the park look mystical and extra beautiful, but made the driving difficult and some of the lookout points useless.  We made our way down to Ecola State Park, one of my favorites along the coast.  The fog made the sunbeams passing throught the branches of the pines visible, and the park was fun to explore.  We braved the wind and rain and went out to the lookout points at the tip of the park.  Cannon Beach is just south of Ecola state park, and is probably the most tourist-developed town on the coast - yet very much worth seeing.  It has a charming feel with nice shopping for local art, jewelry and crafts.  Just beyond Cannon Beach were the towns of Manzanita, Nehlam Bay, and Wheeler.  These are smaller towns with nice restaurants and more locals per tourist.  We pressed on to Tillamook, home of the farmer-owned Tillamook Cheese Factory - a great place to get a bite to eat.  Their cheese and ice cream is incredible, and you can watch the cheese being made.  Just beyond Tillamook was Munson Creek Falls, a waterfall tucked back off highway 101 behind a 10 minute wooded hike.  Weather urged us to stay in our second yurt at Cape Lookout State Park, one of our favorites - right on the beach, where we beachcombed for sand dollars.

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