UPDATED 9/29/04


Current Statistics:

Platform - 1966 Mustang Fastback "C" code

Engine - 1966 ford small block 289 (not original)

------Carburator - 600 CFM Edelbrock

------Air Cleaner - Cobra Oval Air cleaner

------Intake manifold - Aluminum Edelbroch Performer RPM (High rise)

------Exhaust Manifolds - Hooker Competition Full lenth tubular headers

------Valve Covers - Cobra Aluminum black Valve Covers

------Oil Pan - Cobra 7 1/2 quart aluminum oil pan with baffles

------Cam Shaft - PAW Hi-performance cam with .448" intake, 204* duration & .472" exhaust

------Pistons - PAW .030-over cast pistons with moly rings

------Oil pump - PAW High output oil pump with heavy duty ARP drive shaft

------Timing chain - Double roller timing chain

------Fan - 1969 Mustang 5 blade flex fan

------Radiator - High Capacity 4 core radiator

------Compresson Ratio - 9.5:1

------Estimated Horse Power - 250

------Estimated torque - 290

------Transmission - Borg Warner t-10 (4 Speed)

------Tires - Firestone 225/70/14

------Wheels - 1997 Ford Explorers alloy wheels

------Rear Axle - Stock Ford 8" differential with ~3.50 Ring & Pinion

------Suspension - Front: Shelby 1" A-arm drop with stock springs & 1" spacer. Rear: Stock springs.

------Interior - Standard Black (Originally Red)

11/30/03 I've started on installing the shelby scoops. I didnt really know how to go at it at first. I've seen some people screw them in and I've heard of some bondo'ed on. One of mine was really warped so after using a 20 ton press and a heat gun to get it back in shape, i used "Automotive goop" to install it. The glue is a rubber cement that hardens but is still flexible. I used a rachet strap and a bottle jack to hold the scoops in place while it dried. Afterward i didnt know if i wanted to flare the scoops into the body or leave it like that. I decided i was going to use bondo to flare them in. After about 3 days i had the scoops looking just as i wanted. Click on the scoop to get a bigger picture

12/15/03 I finally got the car painted put there wasnt enough light in the garage so alot of it is orange peel. Im considering sanding it down til its not glossy any more and hitting it with some thinned red. The pictures i uploaded makes the paint look really great, but it isnt. Check out the picture. After Being Painted

12/22/03 It has begun...Again. Im going with my 1st idea about sanding it down and respraying it again with thinned paint. I've knocked down all the runs on it and I currently have the quarterpanals and roof sanded flat already. I purchased some steelwool so i can smooth out the sand marks.

shelby stripes Passanger side

Word Of caution-"Dont buy anything from Unlimited Products ." Everything on their website looks great, but when it arrives at your door, it has pin holes in it, and has been painted with gray primer to cover the FLAWED areas. Not only did mine have alot of pin holes, but it has a 12"X18" rectangle embossed into the middle of it. Look at this picture closely and you'll see it. I've tried several times to e-mail but they havent responded. My suggestion is to look on recycler or go to the swapmeets so you can see what you are buying. . Ribs are for condoms, not trunk lids. Just more proof that fiberglass parts (atleast "Unlimited Products") are not worth the savings in weight.

2/18/04 Alot has been done over the 2 months. I aligned the doors, installed the hood and trunk. Installed a choke cable. Recently i started painted the shelby stripes on the front.

3/1/04 Sanding, buffing, polishing, waxing... Sand, respray, Repeat as necessary. Gees, this is taking forever. But I'm making alot of progess. I have the roof to a respectable shape. I need to touch up a few other spots hear and there with red, and finish the stripes. I also finished the front clip on it. Its been polished waxed and reinstalled with stainless steel fasteners.

4/19/04 I've been working on other things in the past month, but in the last 2 weeks I've gotten alot done on the mustang. I completed both doors, painted hood and trunk again, and painted the shelby stripes on the rear valance. I've also installed alot of the chrome pieces like the bumpers (that will be replaced), door handles, door weather striping and shields.

8-20-04 Schools almost starting again and the mustang still isnt up and running. After 7 week vacation, i havent had much time to tinker with it. When i got home a spend $1000 on interior parts including uphosltery, carpet, handles, dash pad, etc... and bumper. I ever got new seat buns and im desperately trying to figure out how every thing goes together. I got the rear seat re-uphoslsterd but it doesnt have as many listing wires as the fronts. Ive repaired the wiring harnesses and painted the dash with gloss black and the floor pans with bed liner material. I bought water-heater jackets and cut them to size to fit the floor. I installed my shelby windows completely and water proofed them really well.

9-07-04 HaHA, Finally it's running and on the road. After almost 2 years in my garage, the mustang has awaken from its 19 year sleep. I took it on its maden voyage around the block and it was fun but it had problems with the timing. Cars dont like to run well at 0 degrees timing. I bumped it up to 10 degrees and tried again with better sucess except it wont rev past 4000 rpm. Oh well, ill figure it out later.

9-11-04 Bad date, but i fixed my problem. After buying a new fuel pump, rebuilding the carburator, and checking 3 dozen other problems, i found out why my 'stang has no top end. I manually adjusted the distributer to about 25 degrees BTDC and went for a test drive. At first it didnt want to start because of the advanced timming, but when it did, it ran good. I could finaly get it up in to the 5000 rpm area. The only problem is when i did, the idle would change. Some times it would stall, some times it would run rough, it was strange. So i decided to pull the distributer apart and find out what happened. To my surprize i found the mechanical advance weights and cams frozen to the distributer plate. That explains my problems. Now i got the fixed and i test drove it again. I lost alittle bit of my low end but my top end is still great. Oh yah, I fixed some of my minor paint flaws, installed hood locks, got new rims and tires, and waxed the stang.

9/24/04 Of course i had to get a photo shoot of my stang. I bought some used rims from my friends Ford Ranger for $100 with tires so i couldnt pass up the deal. Im still having carburator problems. Namely surging at low rpm cruise speeds and a stumble off idle. Im looking into another carburator with vacuum secondaries to figure out the problem.

12-11-04 Well lets see what happened in the last 3 months. I performed the Shelby a-arm drop. It wasnt to hard but make sure you use the inside type spring compressor. I didnt want to buy a 17/32" drill bit so i used a 1/2 drill bit and wiggled it around alittle bit. It worked but it was tight. I suggest using rat tail file. I had it aligned with 1* camber, 2* caster and 1/8" toe in. Every thing works fine except for my geometry. Apparently 69 suspension is set up differently. The tie rod mounting hole is higher than on 66 so my suspension isnt parallel. When I gun the gas, the front end lift up and i get extreme toe in >1". Than the tires squell till i stomp on the brake to bring the nose back down.
I also found another carburator. After having a horrible time with my holley 600 Double pumper, I found a Edelbrock 600cfm at the Junk yard. I couldnt pass it up for $35. After disassembing it, soaking it, and cleaning it up, it runs excellent. The engine starts up and idles at 450 in the morning with no choke and runs a 750 when warmed up. I had my tires balenced today. That made a huge improvement on the free way since my glove box doesnt vibrate apart now.
Once i get the suspension set up correctly, I'll take it down to LACR and get a time slip on it.

1-27-05 This is costing me alot of money. Mustangsteve suggested that I find a set of 66 disc brakes to correct my front end geometry. After researching the problem, replacing my 69 spindles for 66 spindles was the only way to make everything work right. So i went out and found myself some spindles and rotors for $150. The seller said he threw away the calipers because they were in rough shape....ARGGG. So i had everything cleaned up and painted and i got the rotor turned so they looked brand new. Now i needed Calipers. I went to autozone and ordered 67 calipers for $150 including the core. When they arrived, they were missing all the hardware and everything. Basicly it was only the casting and the pistons. I found the only place that carried them was national parts depot> and it would have cost me another $120 in hoses and hardware. So I looked on Ebay and found a set about 20 miles from my house. The i won the auction at $176 and went down the same day to pick them up. They looked good with a fresh paint job and new pads. I brought them home and began assembling my brakes when in noticed the paint job was suspicious. Upon further investigation, i noticed the the calipers were never rebuilt at all. I e-mailed the seller back, and upon asking/threatening, i finally got a $57 refund out of him. I rebuilt them and installed them in my car and now the world is at peace.

2-04-05 I happen to run into a hi-school friend at a tool store so after alittle bit of chatting we decided to run down to the airport to take some pictures of our cars. Heres the product of our endeaver. BTW, my car is better than his.

This site is a member of WebRing.
To browse visit Here.