Austria - Fall 2004
    Austria was a joy.  Everyday to be surrounded by the Alps as we camped in high valleys was like touching heaven!
     Our trip began and ended in Munich, Germany.  We journeyed out of the town center, south along the Isar River on a gravel bike path - so civilized and simple for bicycles.  Our direction took us south to Fussen, stopping and camping in some of the most beautiful countryside we've ever experienced.  There are a number of forest roads and we did manage to get lost among them.  There were great hordes of bicyclists and their families riding around in the country, particularly on the weekends. 
   This was the test tour of our new Co-Motion coupled tandem and the tandem Arkel Panniers. Both proved to be reliable companions and will serve us well on our Round-the-World (RTW) adventure.    We also realized how comfortable we have become with the luxurious  European Campground model: numerous toilets, showers, dish sinks, clothes washing facilities, and warm, dry  public rooms to ward off the rain!. 


  The passes such as Fern and Gerlos did not provide bike-friendly paths.  The grades can be extreme (17% in places or 13% for 2.5 km) and they tested our braking power.  Thank goodness for drum brakes on the tandem.  The rim brakes were smoking!
     The food in this area is supreme!  After 3.5 weeks of pretty strenuous riding, we had not lost a pound.  We cooked most of our meals, but the selection of foods and some of the delicious pre-prepared choices allowed us to eat very well.  And of course, there was a wonderful selection of great beers!



OOmpa Band on raft beer party - going over the dam
Public kitchen - great for DRY cooking
Airplane bound - all 160# of gear     There are many exciting historic sights that we visited:  crazy Ludwig's castle in Fussen, the salt mines in Salzburg, ice and mammoth caves in Hallstatt.  Bikes were not our only mode of transport:  there was the luge in Lermoos, a ferry on the Attarsee, bus and elevator up to the Eagles' Nest, cable cars to view the caves, and the train back to Munich.
     People provide the heart of any trip. Our camground host in Salzburg was the smiling face who met us over coffee in the morning with daily weather reports and a little insight to Austrian life.  To escape the rain, we stayed in a zimmer (a room in a private home) and were received by the teeange son and fed a hearty breakfast the next  morning by "mom".
   Any travel can be strenuous - the change in schedule, food, daily demands of dealing with new and unknown situations, another language that keeps the traveler separate and sometimes uninformed.  Add these to the physical demands of pedaling and hauling 60-75 pounds of gear.  A person's good nature can be challenged!
      Art & I are always proud of ourselves after we have conquered  another emotionally difficult day-- ie:  when we were lost in Germany during a drenching rain, using only a compas to gain our bearings without being accusatory or yelling!
Accomplishment!!
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