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Scotty Dwyer was something of a minor figure in the history of Welsh climbing.He did however,make his mark with several routes of character and quality,mostly in those far flung backwaters far from the honeypot crags of north Wales.
Climbing with Harold and Neville Drasdo and Phil Livesey on what I presumed to be unclimbed cliffs on the shores of the beautiful Llyn Gwynant,I persuaded the rest of the experienced crew to join me in exploring an impressive cleft which cut through the cliff like the slash of a broadsword.
This two pitch route which I named Excaliber and claimed as a first ascent later turned out to be a Scotty Dwyer original !
Nevertheless,the name Excaliber stuck and the route which is described in the current Tremadog CC guide-book as an excellent climb' is described in detail for the first time.
Steve Arraton pictured was on the first ascents of Sheng and The Wanderer with me on Craig Dinas.
Steve Arraton on pitch 2 of Excaliber V Diff (5.3),Craig Penmaen Brith,Nant Gwynant,North Wales.
The slate cliffs of Llanberis are better known for their out there hard technical extremes which draw punters from far and wide.However,there are some excellent easier climbs amongst them of which the short but punchy Binwomen,VS 4c,is one.
This relatively easy VS is one the rarely visited Skyline Buttress which is at the very top of the Llanberis complex.
Skylines' isolation and lack of classic hard climbs deters the rock jocks and leaves it as a suitable venue for those who climb in the lower-middle grades and who wish to sample the delights of slate in a quiet,uncompetitive area.
The gaunt,sombre cliffs of Craig Ddu under Mynydd Mawr are the haunt of ghosts and climbing misfits.
No one in their right mind would walk to these remote,chossy,vegetated cliffs without a gun held to their quivering head...would they !
Well...actually.......
In the early 90's,Big Dave Williams and I couldn't get enough of these Menlovian stone temples of fear and fascination !
Adam's Rib is probably the most popular climb on the cliff and does see the odd...very odd ! climber.
The route is actually a superb outing with a pulse racing finale 400' above the scree slopes.
Dave Williams on the classic mountaineering route,Adam's Rib' Hard severe,Craig Ddu,Mynydd Mawr,N Wales.
John Appleby on Binwomen VS 4c (5.8) Skyline Buttress,Llanberis slate.N Wales.
Ed Fisher is a good friend of mine who started climbing at roughly the same time as myself...we were both late starters.Ed was on the first ascents with me, in the early 90's of the first recorded routes on the west side of Arenig Fawr...Rapscallion and Scorpion.
In the same period,with Scott Lloyd and Jon Gorman,Ed and I crossed the border and travelled to the famous Roaches of Staffordshire.
These small gritstone cliffs were also visited by another Welsh climber of minor fame in the 1950's......A certain Donald Whillans whose most famous Roaches route is Sloth ,E1 (5.10a).
Later in the day Ed and Jon failed on Sloth and I fell off Jellyroll.
Mind you,on the brutal Thug.(pictured) Ed redeemed himself and succeeded where we had failed miserably !
Them crazy hippies !!! Ed Fisher fights his way up Thug,VS-5a,The Roaches,England.
The Moelwyn mountains near Blaneau Ffestiniog are a favourite stomping ground of mine.However...be warned.The high mountains of the Moelwynion remain the last domain of the extremely rare Festering Bear...(Lazzygetus harekhrsihna)
It was whilst wandering off the beaten track that I accidently startled a ragged elderly specimen who gave chase.
My escape was witnessed..(see picture) by a passing Japanese tourist.
Be careful if you happen to find yourself in the Moelwyns !
Exit...pursued by a bear !