To the right is a diagram showing where all the parts go. Excuse my poor penmenship. Start this by preparing the 2 toilet flanges that have the test caps on them. Drill holes in the center of each for the size of pipe you decided on. I used 3/4 and drilled a hole with a hole saw at 25mm [about 1"] you will have to decide which is right for you. It should be small enough that the pipe threads will not go into it. Find a piece of pipe in metal or brass that is the same diameter and thread size. Force this into the hole to cut your threads. The bottom flange will have a elbow threaded into the bottom with a slip joint on the other end. Test this to see if it fits ok before you glue it. This is very important, do not use any glue or cement where it will be exposed to the interior of the reactor. Treat both pieces to be joined with acetone or primer. I used the acetone because it does not stain the pipe and looks real good. Apply cement on the last couple of threads of the pipe only! Do not apply to the inside of the flange on the new threads. I know this is how PVC is usually joined but this will react with the affluent and end up in the tank! I was somewhat paranoid about this and added cement to the outside of this connection along the connection and wiped off the excess with a rag soaked in acetone.

Some of these connections use fittings that are close together and touching one another. To get these that close takes a little practice because working with the acetone the parts tend to sieze rather quickly and before they are together all the way so when you are ready to slip them together get them in a place you can really use some force on it like a table top or something. The short connections fitting to fitting I cut the pipe at about 1 1/4". If you don't have one of those PVC cutters get one. They are only about $10 and work really great. The picture to the left shows the bottom with the elbow in it. Paranoia set in again at the stress this fitting is likely to get with all of the work being done on it so I added some chunks I clipped off of some scrap to beef it up. I didn't want to bust off the fitting or snap the test cap out. Notice I added glue around the knockout test cap to strengthen it. This is not really needed. You can see the next fitting connected to the elbow too.

The picture to the right shows the top cap. The fitting here is threaded in just like the bottom except it does not use an elbow because of how deep it is in the flange. Remember which side is what here as this goes down inside with a straight fitting. Make it look like this and again I beefed it up with some extra scrap. Before you add the elbow though you will need to glue together the reactor chambers top and bottom flanges. I have had poor luck with the bottom flange on all of the reactors I built so far. Treat the pieces with acetone and apply cement to the 4" pipe leaving about a 1/4 space on the end. This keeps the cement from smearing on the inside of the chamber. Place the flange on the floor and get a good grip on the pipe and force it all the way home careful not to bust the fittings you have done.

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